[FOR SALE] Complete HEI Kits for Sale

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TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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Complete High Energy Ignition kits.
All prewired with only 3 connections to make in the vehicle, upgrades that old Mopar (or most any other older ignition system) to High Powered Modern spark.
Larger spark plug gap and a hotter spark make for better starting (Hot and cold), more power, better throttle response and smoother idle, as well as better fuel economy.
Proven reliability and less expensive for replacement parts.
No more ballast resistor or wires, no more manifold mounted coil, bracket and wiring, no more "box" or harness mounted on the fender.
Makes getting to the smallblock distributor WAY easier.
Works with all classic Mopar stock electronic distributors.
Number of cylinders does not matter, 6-8, big block or small.
Can be mounted almost anywhere in the engine compartment or the inside of the firewall under the dash for a super clean engine compartment.

Price shipped with directions and free installation support is $99.95 USD
Shipped from AZ 86314

There is also a demo video at www.classichei.com
 

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The coils in the pictures are different. Do you have yo buy anything to go with this kit? Or is it a complete bolt on, and the only part needed is a distributor?
 
None at all, works with most everything and comes with everything you need except connectors if you installed it with crimp type.
Personally I prefer solder.
One thing I found out here recently is that MSD makes a VR for the distributor that has a rev limiter built into it.
Pretty cool I thought.

any issues with using this with the MSD billet dizzy ?
 
The coils in the pictures are different. Do you have yo buy anything to go with this kit? Or is it a complete bolt on, and the only part needed is a distributor?

I'd say it's a complete bolt on except if you crimped the connections, as I set it up to be soldered with heat shrink tubing cover.
The must have stuff is there for true HEI, but there are all kinds of upgrades that can be added to compliment it.
These would be Echlin part #MO-3000 long tip rotor.
8.5mm silicone magnacor plug wires.
A relay feed for 12+ instead of factory wiring.

and a few others like different distr caps.

The system work great on it's own, and the other stuff would be upgrades.
 
Hey Greg just a heads up in your youtube video there is a little comment section under it where you put the name of your website and just pointing out you forgot the "L" in classichei.com Might hurt potential customer business, just a heads up:)
 
Hey Greg just a heads up in your youtube video there is a little comment section under it where you put the name of your website and just pointing out you forgot the "L" in classichei.com Might hurt potential customer business, just a heads up:)

Thanks, I'm terrible about that kind stuff.:banghead: :D



Would this work on slant sixes also?

Oh yea, no changes necessary for use on a /6.
Hooks up and works the same on all of em that have an electronic distributor.
 
I just ordered one I cant wait till it gets here, anyone no how long installation takes?
 
I have E3 spark plugs I dont think I can gap them at 45 will 35 still work?
 
If any part of this system fails, are parts available at most part stores?

Yes, a parts store without these plug and play parts in stock would be pretty surprising.


How long to install, remove old stuff, and do you like it.

Hi Tom, not sure if you are asking me,,, but
I spent some extra time on mine like triming the ballast wires all the way back to the harness and using the two hot (start/run) that went to the ballast connected together and then to the big red coil 12+ on the coil.
I also removed ALL the original coil wires and bracket from the intake area.
I then mounted my new coil in the area of my brake booster and the ECU where the ballast was.
Then I pulled the factory ignition box and wiring all the way back to the harness.
There is a picture of it at www.classichei.com

The whole thing took about an hour to install and remove factory wires then retape the harness back up where I removed the stock wires from.

I would highly recommend that anyone that is not POSITIVE about what they are doing do it this way.
It would be way better to bypass the factory coil and module first to get the car running on the new system, then start removing no longer needed wiring and parts if wanted.

You could also do it like 73ABODEE (Lance) did his by leaving all the stock wiring and just taping it up to the harness and jumping across the ballast resistor.
This way leaves all the stock equipment intact just in case you ever wanted to undo it for some reason.
I LOVE mine and I know it's never coming off as long as I have the car.
 
Mine took me about two hours to do but like Greg I mounted the heat sink where the ballast res was so i had to run some extra lengths of wire to the dizzy and the coil
I haven't fired the motor back up but i plan on doing it this weekend.
Greg is a great guy to work with I'd recommend him to anybody he's a true professional
Aaron
 
AW shucks.
Thanks guys.

FYI I have to keep emptying my PM's so if I miss anything just yell.
 
Mine took me about two hours to do but like Greg I mounted the heat sink where the ballast res was so i had to run some extra lengths of wire to the dizzy and the coil
I haven't fired the motor back up but i plan on doing it this weekend.
Greg is a great guy to work with I'd recommend him to anybody he's a true professional
Aaron

So you mounted the coil where then?
I gave you 14 feet of wire to work with. :D JK
My coil is mounted right next to the ECU on the fender, and I only needed about 8 inches of wire to the coil connector.

I'd like to see a picture of yours installed if you can, and I think it would help give others ideas and options.
 
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