Complete rally dash frame removal

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Windshield guy is coming out Sunday to remove the original windshield in our 67 fastback and upgrade to 68/9 stainless trim. This wont all be done in 1 day:lol:
While windshield is out I need to remove entire steel dash frame with EVERYTHING(as much that can come out attached).
I have a replacement frame powdercoated, I also have a replacement DIY rally dash harness that I've done and is "laid out" in the powdercoated frame.
Car is also an AC car(underdash components installed). No underhood ac components.
What's the best way to tackle this?
I was thinking of getting a head start prior to Sunday, but searching thru fabo I saw this pic of dash still in car with the windshield removed.
I thought maybe its easier to tackle AFTER the ws has been removed.(see 1st pic)
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Now here are pics of my current setup.
Correct if I'm wrong but
1, unhook battery
2. Drain coolant
3 remove console
4 remove heater core/ac box
5 remove bucket seats as needed(they will be removed FOR SURE after glass guy has pulled windshield).
6 Lower steering column.
6. Wait for ws to be removed, THEN move on to unhooking/removing electrical(seats out for sure).
Once dash is removed I will be transferring over the inst bezel, controls, gauges over to powdercoated frame.
Any suggestions regarding any aspect of this CHORE is appreciated. Most of this will be done on my own, except glass removal and install.
I have a trim clip set coming
I have the clip template from fabo.
I have a tube of 3M bedding compound.
Do I need butyl tape?
Thanks all.

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Unless you're going to restore the heater box, I don't know if I'd go to the trouble to pull it out. Once you loosen the lower bolts down behind the kick panels, just remove the bolts that are hiding under the windshield gasket and the dash frame will rock back enough to clear the heater box. You might be some grunting and cussing ahead if you just unplug and completely remove the steering column first. Getting the entire dash frame out and back in by yourself is do-able but will be easier with the column safely out of the way. One thing I started doing a long time ago after chasing electrical problems for days after a newly painted dash install, was to remove the paint or powder coat to the metal on the surface of the lower bolts, on the door jamb side. Remove enough from the door jamb area so that it is still hidden behind the dash frame, but naked enough to make a good ground connection between the door jamb and dash frame. I put electrical silicone grease between the 2 parts. Sounds extreme, but it will provide a good ground to the entire dash frame and keep your windshield wipers from coming on when you turn on a turn signal....lol. It's been a long time since I fooled with an A body windshield, but I don't think you will need butyl tape. The bedding and glazing compound should do all you need to do. I'd run that by the glass guy beforehand though, just to be sure. Good luck with it, and don't hurt your back duck walking thru the car to get the dash frames in/out!
 
Steve "just me" but I would darn sure reverse the clips along the windshield and install the screws from below. Then you can get it out with the windshield in. You may or may not need shorter screws.

I wish you better luck on leaks than on my Scamp. I still don't know what is or is not leaking for sure, this spring has been AFU
 
I agree. No need to pull the heater box unless you want to re build it.

Mount your new dash frame in a home-made jig to transfer the components from old to new. Once you are satisfied, map out the bulkhead connectors. Now you can test the entire functionality of all components "on the bench" with a battery and test light. This includes plugging in a wiper motor, ignition switch, and signal switch. Hopefully you are upgrading the IVR while you are at it.

I also ran 2 dedicated ground straps while I was at it. One from the cluster to the dash frame, and one from the dash frame to the body.

:thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys. Is this the bolt JD you mentioned for a good ground?
Del, the screws going in "backwards" are a definite with the "new" dash. Thanks for reminder.
JD you got me thinking about the AC asst. It looks like dash might clear it? I wasnt going to restore it, we did most of it (heater/defrost portion, new heater core) when Dad n I did it in 2012. I'll unhook vac lines, cables and any electrical going to the box. Cables need fixing, but I'll deal with that when time comes.
Here are pics from passenger side.
Thanks again
JDMopar said:
Unless you're going to restore the heater box, I don't know if I'd go to the trouble to pull it out. Once you loosen the lower bolts down behind the kick panels, just remove the bolts that are hiding under the windshield gasket and the dash frame will rock back enough to clear the heater box. You might be some grunting and cussing ahead if you just unplug and completely remove the steering column first. Getting the entire dash frame out and back in by yourself is do-able but will be easier with the column safely out of the way. One thing I started doing a long time ago after chasing electrical problems for days after a newly painted dash install, was to remove the paint or powder coat to the metal on the surface of the lower bolts, on the door jamb side. Remove enough from the door jamb area so that it is still hidden behind the dash frame, but naked enough to make a good ground connection between the door jamb and dash frame. I put electrical silicone grease between the 2 parts. Sounds extreme, but it will provide a good ground to the entire dash frame and keep your windshield wipers from coming on when you turn on a turn signal....lol. It's been a long time since I fooled with an A body windshield, but I don't think you will need butyl tape. The bedding and glazing compound should do all you need to do. I'd run that by the glass guy beforehand though, just to be sure. Good luck with it, and don't hurt your back duck walking thru the car to get the dash frames in/out!
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
Steve "just me" but I would darn sure reverse the clips along the windshield and install the screws from below. Then you can get it out with the windshield in. You may or may not need shorter screws.

I wish you better luck on leaks than on my Scamp. I still don't know what is or is not leaking for sure, this spring has been AFU
Click to expand...

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Thanks Troy, I remember you made a jig. I got lots of wood lol. Great idea on IVR, I have one I forgot all about.:BangHead:
I did mention this wont be done in a day...:realcrazy:
CFD244 said:
I agree. No need to pull the heater box unless you want to re build it.

Mount your new dash frame in a home-made jig to transfer the components from old to new. Once you are satisfied, map out the bulkhead connectors. Now you can test the entire functionality of all components "on the bench" with a battery and test light. This includes plugging in a wiper motor, ignition switch, and signal switch. Hopefully you are upgrading the IVR while you are at it.

I also ran 2 dedicated ground straps while I was at it. One from the cluster to the dash frame, and one from the dash frame to the body.

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
 
The picture of your pappy in the car is a nice touch.
 
Just a footnote- Make sure that the powder coat on the frame doesn't interfere with the grounds. You may want to scratch them up a bit or use star washers that will dig into the metal. Great job by the way Steve.
PS, make sure you have a safe place for laying that windshield up while tackling this job.
 
Thanks George, yeah I will be grounding the heck outta everything. Good point in star toothed washers. I asked the glass guy if it's safe on the roof. He said yes, "tits up" with bracing under it, to reduce flex. 12×20 shelter is available too with saw horses if need be.
:thumbsup:
A56 said:
Just a footnote- Make sure that the powder coat on the frame doesn't interfere with the grounds. You may want to scratch them up a bit or use star washers that will dig into the metal. Great job by the way Steve.
PS, make sure you have a safe place for laying that windshield up while tackling this job.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks George, yeah I will be grounding the heck outta everything. Good point in star toothed washers. I asked the glass guy if it's safe on the roof. He said yes, "tits up" with bracing under it, to reduce flex. 12×20 shelter is available too with saw horses if need be.
:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Yep, read up on storing them. I recently read where a windshield was improperly stored, it deviated from it's shape slightly and after it was installed, it cracked.
 
I'd pull the windshield myself to save on paying a glass guy to do it. Since you're installing a new '68-up gasket, just use a razor blade box cutter and cut the old gasket to get the W/S out. Then you can take your time transferring all the dash components over to the "new" frame. I'd leave the heater-A/C suitcase, freon, coolant, alone unless it needs work for some reason. I'd also leave the console in place to use as a prop for the dash assembly when you go to remove/install it. I like to put a cushion down on it to protect the dash bezel and pad while working on the cables, wiring, hoses, glove box liner etc. Just pull the shifter back into 1st. I'd pull the column out though. I'd also pull the wiper transmission assembly, lube the pivots and linkage, and reseal it.
 
Thanks Mark, even the glass guy told me it's easy to remove. Like you said carefully cut gasket and ws will pop right out. I chose to "pick my battle" and the glass wont be one of those lol. I was wondering same thing about console as support. Too late it's out, BUT it can go back in relatively easy for support when the time comes.
Thanks again!
cudamark said:
I'd pull the windshield myself to save on paying a glass guy to do it. Since you're installing a new '68-up gasket, just use a razor blade box cutter and cut the old gasket to get the W/S out. Then you can take your time transferring all the dash components over to the "new" frame. I'd leave the heater-A/C suitcase, freon, coolant, alone unless it needs work for some reason. I'd also leave the console in place to use as a prop for the dash assembly when you go to remove/install it. I like to put a cushion down on it to protect the dash bezel and pad while working on the cables, wiring, hoses, glove box liner etc. Just pull the shifter back into 1st. I'd pull the column out though. I'd also pull the wiper transmission assembly, lube the pivots and linkage, and reseal it.
Click to expand...
 
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Well, spent better part of the day twisted and contorted. But the back held up.
Took above advice and removed column last, I was going to leave in but it would be in the way for when I "roll/tip" the dash.
Just realized I've one defrost vent left to undo, then ws removal, top side dash screws and 2 side bolts/screws.
Adding to the list
Speedo cable end looks boogered :BangHead:
Broke nipple off push button controller(2nd pic, white piece in vac line holder):BangHead:
Turn signal wiring...:bs_flag:
Steering column "upgrade spring/retainer clip"
Thanks all.

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I would have popped the pin out of the steering coupler and slid it off the steering gear instead of exploding it, but, it'll work.
 
Subscribed.

I need to do the same exact thing to my 67. I also have a powder coated frame and new pad. I am going to buy the Classic Dash insert along with new gauges.

Hopefully, I can complete my project over the next winter.
 
I did knock the pin out, it "exploded" due to not being perfectly inline while pulling on it. Once steering column was out, I could remove the coupler from box by hand.
cudamark said:
I would have popped the pin out of the steering coupler and slid it off the steering gear instead of exploding it, but, it'll work.
Click to expand...
 
Well glass guy told me I was nuts for wanting to drill holes in this for clips. After removing the mylar, gasket and the windshield I tend to agree with him. Everything is in great shape thankfully.
I wont know until dash frame is removed, but I think I'll powdercoat this one and sell the other one I had powdercoated a while back. Now onto removing the frame itself.

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4spdragtop said:
Well glass guy told.me I was nuts for wanting to drill holes in this for clips. After removing the mylar, gasket and the windshield I tend to agree with him. Everything is in great shape thankfully.
I wont know until dash frame is removed, but I think I'll powdercoat this one and sell the other one I had powdercoated a while back. Now onto removing the frame itself.

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The less holes in your car, the better off you are. Looks pretty good for 50+ years Steve.
 
I agree George,but seeing as how the ws had to come out for dash removal. The "upgrade" was something I had to think about. The mylar lockstrip for front alone would have been close to $450 landed up here. Then you have to possibly deal with shrinkage :rolleyes: in the future. IF I can do it properly and get 68/9 trim(I already have, and gasket) to "fit" properly then it should be maintenance free. Oh opened up trim box and found a clip set.:BangHead:
A56 said:
The less holes in your car, the better off you are. Looks pretty good for 50+ years Steve.
Click to expand...

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Well that was 1 step fwd, 2 back for a while. Any suggestions while dash is out?
1. Gonna replace steering column bracket to floor pan gasket.
2. Grease and chk all wiper stuff. May need to replace gaskets.
3. Contemplating cheap DIY sound deadener.
4. Powdercoat dash, this is near perfect but has chips on the front face.
5. Clip for steering box coupler.
:realcrazy:

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Buy a wiper kit with the gaskets and seals.......The kit has provisions to add grease fittings to the pivots. Looking good so far!
 
Looks like you have a good handle on things. Lube up your heater controls.
 
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