Compressed Air Piping

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gzig5

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Which is better or which do you prefer and WHY? Getting ready to hookup my new to me 5hp 60gal two-stage compressor and I want to run a pipe from front to back of the garage with a couple drops. PVC is out. That is a bomb waiting to happen. So I can use hard copper, iron pipe, or maybe that blue composite stuff Eastwood and others sell. I can go about anywhere and get parts for the copper/iron but not so much the composite. Cost is a factor but I think it is almost a wash between iron and copper? I haven't compared to the kits Eastwood sells.
 
Sweat fit copper pipe is fast to put up but not cheap. I planned on doing that, but my shop isnt really big enough to warrant many air drops. I just put a tee off my compressor with 2 air fittings and run dual hoses. I may still run one across the shop and drop it down at the workbench though
 
Copper. Will dissipate heat faster,and with water drops the air will be drier. Big compressor means more moisture to deal with. Slope the long runs.
 
Galvanized pipe is the way to go, cheaper then copper and galvanized is more durable. Copper fittings can get expensive and then you have to swag together with solder, and connectors must be clean, really clean. Copper fittings to pipe will not take the twist you may need to tighten the connection even using sealants Plastic anything will age and get brittle, using a torch or welder or a grinder in the shop, just a tiny spark may burn a hole in the plastic pipe.

I am sure that you know you will have to use some type of flexible pipe from the compressor to the wall. I used a hydraulic hose like the ones off of a tractor or such, most farm supply stores carries pre-made hoses with pipe fittings. Pipe service outlets are like electrical outlets never enough of them, so plan ahead....

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I used the Rapidair blue composite stuff. I like it. The most expensive part is all the fittings and corners and separator/dryers that I had to buy in addition to the kit for my specific requirements. The builders of my garage installed it for me so I can't really tell you how easy it is, but the most difficult part appeared to be straightening the pipe enough to look good. TP Tools and Northern Tool stock the Rapidair product.
RapidAir MaxLine 3/4" Air Piping System - Most Popular

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RapidAir MaxLine 1/2" Air Piping System
 
Copper is easy to install and will last forever but is very expensive these days.
Definitely do not use raw iron pipe, it will rust and contaminate your air. Galvanized is an option.
I did my garage with the same stuff Jim posted above. Its affordable and is fairly easy to install. Install an air fitting about every 6-8 feet in your garage. The more the better. Also good to install a water drop on each leg like you see pictured. I have a couple regulators in my system so I can run different pressures without adjusting all the time.
 
I used 1/2" galvanized pipe with the compressor outside and flexed into the shop. Regulator and air traps with multiple taps and retractable hose reels at each end. I had to cut and thread the pipe but 1/2" is easy to do. Mounted it with electrical fittings and straps. It has worked flawlessly including delivering clean enough air to paint with.
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I used PVC 20 years ago and It has a bust pressure rating of 315lbs, still working great. I do have a flexable hose to the compressor.
 
I used to use nothing but copper. When it came time to plumb my home garage, I went with the RapidAir system. After using it for 8 years with no issues, I chose it for use in my new shop too. It's a seamless aluminum tube, with an HDPE (high density polyethylene) inner liner and a blue HDPE outer jacket. It's very easy to work with, bends and straightens by hand, and the compression style fittings don't leak. There are lots of accessories, manifold blocks, whatever you need. It's less money than copper, way easier to install than galvanized, and will likely outlast them both. Once you use this stuff, you'll never go back to copper.
 
if your going to do it do it right with stainless and crimp on connectors like in industrial applications (JUST JOKING!!!!!)

What pressures are you planning on or could (max) run? that might help you determine what to use.

Just out of curiosity why stay away from PVC? (melting from sparks, heat aside)
 
Landlord thought PVC was a good idea for running air to all the garages.
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Here's a few pieces of it.
Got lucky on the repairs to my car. The dent missed the stripes by just enough that a very skilled body guy was able to pull it and touch up the dent using the body color alone.
Yes the landlord paid for the repair.
Here's one of the chunks that blew apart and flew across the shop.

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For copper installations there are "Sharkbite" fittings so no soldering.
"SharkBite fittings are certified to 200 PSI and 200°F (93°C)"

Regardless of pipe used, proper mounting and reinforcement is required along runs and especially at fittings and ends to avoid stress failures.

I like Gary in AZ's link, really answers the questions.

For the price, the RapidAir MaxLine kit would be my direction, seems very complete and easy install.
 
Do not use PVC. The pipe is not the problem, it's the fittings. They get brittle and oxidize just from age, and explode after a few years.
 
I thought about PVC until someone explained to me that when it does fail, it explodes and sends sharp shards at high velocity into anything in the vicinity. The worst part being that it doesn't show up well in x-rays, so they can't find the pieces embedded in your body.
 
I checked Home Depot price-wise and for a 10' stick of 1/2" dia, copper was $3 cheaper than galvanized and $1 cheaper than black iron. Surprising. I think I need about 50'-60' total. It's about a 20' run to the front of the garage and then 10' over to the hose reel between the doors. probably come back towards the front and have a flex drop in the middle of the room. I like the idea of the blue stuff but it isn't available close by and I hate ordering stuff in like that. Copper is easy and I don't mind soldering so I think steel pipe is out for me. Need to think on the blue pipe some more and see where I can get it. I can rarely get the design right the first time so access to the parts is important.
 
I don't know how your garage is laid out but try not to plumb over a door. The air will heat and cool as it rises and falls and produce moisture.
 
Look into the blue pipe. They sell it in kits then you just buy whatever extra fittings you want. In my case the kit came with more than enough line but I ended up getting a lot of fittings since I ran two regulators and several drops.
 
Do not use PVC.
You can say that again!

The pipe is not the problem, it's the fittings. They get brittle and oxidize just from age, and explode after a few years.
Maybe true. But once it goes, its all over. Not sure if he (the landlord) had it installed more than a year or two. No more than that.
Larger diameters probably increase the stresses in the material.
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Only an idiot would use PVC, It is not a matter of it will fail, but when. If I had to plumb my garage I'd prob go with the blue stuff and it seems like the nicest, but I understand wanting to be able to go and pickup what you need nearby instead of having to order and wait for it.
 
I was an idiot and went PVC when I plumbed mine. But right now, I have lost a leg to my 220 in the shop due to a broken underground line I need to fix, so I'm not using the big compressor that's tied into the PVC. Before I use it again, I plan on trashing the PVC and going to galvanized pipe, because I don't have to keep being an idiot. About that anyway.
 
RRR, take a good look at the modern RapidAire systems before you buy the galvanized... you may change your mind on that galvanized pipe, especially if you do any spray gun work. It's cheaper, easier, and better than galvanized or copper.
 
You can buy the Rapid Air system at Northern Tool. If you don't have one close by, you can order it online. It's what I bought for my garage after mulling over copper. Copper was more expensive for how I wanted to lay out my lines, plus, I have no experience silver soldering pipes and it's hard to get my brother in law nailed down to do it. I never considered black iron because of rust, and didn't consider galvanized because a friend of mine used it and has always had to deal with the pipe flaking off little pieces of galvanize and clogging filters/regulators. Whatever type of pipe you use, turn your tees for your drops up, instead of down. Moisture flows in the bottom of your long runs, so if you slope it slightly down towards the far end, and turn the tees up, the moisture will travel to the end where you can purge it with a gate valve below your connection. I will admit that before my garage was built, and I worked in my basement, I had my Sears rattle around in the floor portable compressor over in the corner, and a short run of PVC ran along the floor joists above, and terminated by my work bench. I was VERY fortunate that it never 'sploded and killed me! If it had been hooked to a serious air compressor like my Quincy in the garage....KABOOMYOW! :eek:
 
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