Compression ratio

-

70Duster340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Messages
434
Reaction score
70
Location
Cortland, Ohio
I had a 71 340 rebuilt by a friend several years ago. I haven't installed it yet (I know, stop being so damn lazy), but I am curious about the compression ratio. I had Edelbrock aluminum heads installed, with. 030 forged pistons. Stock piston rods and crankshaft. What can I expect the compression ratio to be?

TIA
 
You also need to know where the piston sits in the hole, positive or negative deck height, valve relief amount, head gasket thickness and diameter. Also the cylinder head cc amount. Also, do the pistons have a dome?
 
Tons of important information left out to even guess.
 
Well now, you're asking a lot, lol. I believe the pistons were level with the deck. The head gaskets were Felpros, recommended by Edelbrock. I can't remember the part number, though. I haven't had any contact with this guy for several years now.
 
I apologize if I don't have the information needed for an estimate. You folks can disregard the question. Sorry if I was underinformed.
 
I'll go out on the limb. lol 8.8- 9.1. If at zero deck.
 
I apologize if I don't have the information needed for an estimate. You folks can disregard the question. Sorry if I was underinformed.

Naw, it's all good. At least you're tellin us BEFORE six pages later that you don't know. Is this engine assembled? Running? Does it have a starter installed that can turn it over?
 
I'll go out on the limb. lol 8.8- 9.1. If at zero deck.

Probably a fair guess....unless he's mistaken about the deck clearance. Maybe with a little more investigative work, we can get closer for him.
 
Ok, I see you have not installed it yet. Ok, here's what you do. Take a spark plug out. Turn the engine until the piston in that cylinder is all the way up to top dead center, and then back down in the bore about an inch or so. Then get a light and shine in the plug hole and see what the piston looks like. Let us know is you see 4 valve reliefs, two valve reliefs or a single trough. It should be one of the three. Hell, you might even can see a part number. We can tell a little more after you do that.
 
OK folks. I have tracked down some more info. The gasket thickness is .038 compressed. The pistons are forged stock style. 030 over. I did hear it run when I went to pick it up. Sounded good with hi-po exhaust manifolds.
 
OK folks. I have tracked down some more info. The gasket thickness is .038 compressed. The pistons are forged stock style. 030 over. I did hear it run when I went to pick it up. Sounded good with hi-po exhaust manifolds.

Yeah but WHICH stock type? There were two types. Early and late. The early had 2 valve reliefs and the late 4. We're gettin closer.
 
What do you mean by early and late? Do you mean the build date? I am sure it's a 71 block, that much I am sure of.
 
What do you mean by early and late? Do you mean the build date? I am sure it's a 71 block, that much I am sure of.

Pistons. Early pistons had 2 valve reliefs. Late ones had 4. The block is really irrelevant, because a LOT of times the early pistons were replaced with the late ones as they are interchangeable. That's why it's important to know. Also, get the part number off the heads.
 
I'm gonna say that engine is most likely in the 10-10.5 range. That's a 64 cc head and a 2 eyebrow piston. It's at least in the mid to high 9s. Probably a decent little motor.
 
If you have 2 reliefs and IF it's zero decked, fishmen nailed it.

I don't know casting numbers. Unless it's a closed chamber head you are that low on compression.
Can I ask why it's different than the factory rating? I thought the aluminum heads were a step up.
Don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't believe this. I just want to know why I didn't get the power I wanted.
I wish I could contact this guy. He and his father were very experienced in engine building, but mostly Chebby engines. This guy was a good friend, and almost begged me to let his dad do the build.
 
It’s different because there are different parts in the engine. Decreasing the head cc amount raises the ratio, flat top pistons, no dome, lowers the ratio, thicker gaskets, lower the ratio. It all comes down to the math.

WHat kind of power are you looking for?
 
Can I ask why it's different than the factory rating? I thought the aluminum heads were a step up.
Don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't believe this. I just want to know why I didn't get the power I wanted.
I wish I could contact this guy. He and his father were very experienced in engine building, but mostly Chebby engines. This guy was a good friend, and almost begged me to let his dad do the build.



Because very few engines came from the factory with the advertised CR. Why you say???

Because you are buying a mass produced piece with tolerances for each and every part.

Sooooo, that means if you got damn lucky, you got an engine with the shortest decks, the longest rods, the tallest compression height and the heads with the smallest chambers, you'd be close to advertised.

As an example, you only machine the decks on a new block until the cleans up, and it that is .040-060 taller than what is called for, they run it. For the heads, it's the same thing. The new castings are only milled until the decks are clean and flat. So you could have a head that came off the mill with 74 cc chambers or 68 cc chambers.

Oh, I forgot to mention that crank stroke lengths vary. The nominal stroke is 3.313 but (going from memory here) I think the tolerance was plus or minus .010 stroke length.

So, if you are unlucky like me (unlucky in love too but my wife says otherwise) you'd get the tallest block, the shortest rods, the shortest stroke and the biggest chambers and the you'd have about 9:1-9.5:1.

That's how that happens.

Now I'm going to catch hell here, but that's why I NEVER deck a block to a number. Ever. You can screw yourself right quick.

And then you get a visit from the Wild Turkey to make you feel better!!
 
It’s different because there are different parts in the engine. Decreasing the head cc amount raises the ratio, flat top pistons, no dome, lowers the ratio, thicker gaskets, lower the ratio. It all comes down to the math.

WHat kind of power are you looking for?


I would have given this nice, short answer, but some blow hard would come along and tell me I don't add anything to these threads (not you rumble) so I gave the long version.
 
-
Back
Top