Convertible top switch removal

Convertible A-Body Mopar

  1. Brian Owens

    Brian Owens New Member

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    Recently got back into mopars! Just picked up a 67 Dart GT convertible great car. Just got the car. Lowered the top 2x. First time no issues (that I noticed) the 2nd time I tried to operate the top, i hit switch to put top down and it got stuck part way. After jiggling switch around for about 15 minutes I was able to get it to close (thank GOD). I suspect that the issue may be in the switch itself, or at least that's probably the first place to start.

    So my QUESTION is how do I remove the switch/ switch Beazle so I can see if the switch is bad? I ordered up a new one from the convertible top guys because my switch seems roached af. All help greatly appreciated! I can't figure out how to remove it from my dash!
     
  2. burdar

    burdar Owen's Dad

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    The switch is held on by the round chrome bezel on the outside. The bezel screws on to threads in the switch. Unscrew the bezel and the switch will come out the back side.

    I made a tool that fits inside the grooves of the bezel so they can be easily removed/installed. It's basically just a piece of conduit that I put in the mill and machined away the edge until I was left with a couple of "pins" sticking out. You could do the same thing with a hacksaw...it would just take longer.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2022
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    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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      There are removal tools for sale at places like Classic Ind if you are not as talented.
      MF1742 - 1962-74 Mopar; Washer, Wiper, Headlight Dash Switch Bezel Nut Removal Tool

      If you use a screwdriver you WILL damage the bezel.

      67 (especially Convertibles) have a lot of unique 1 year only parts

      There were only about 12,000 convertibles built 67, 68, 69 so finding donor parts cars is next to impossible.

      DO NOT TOSS OR DISTROY ANY PART.

      many parts can be restored. The top switch is one of them.

      And by the way, welcome to the 67 Dart GT Convertible Family.

      Post some photos and details of your car.
       
      Last edited: Jan 14, 2022
    • HemiSSDart

      HemiSSDart Dartus Interuptus

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      You ordered a switch from the convertible top guys? Can you be more specific? That switch is difficult to find and as far as I know hasn't been available for years!?!
       
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      • burdar

        burdar Owen's Dad

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        JS Restorations rebuilt all my switches but he just retired. Is anyone else rebuilding switches?
         
      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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        I haven't looked but I would be 100% sure it is a generic switch. I looked some time ago and this is what they had. (Dont know what the OP bought) Screenshot_20220114-091129.png
         
      • 4spdragtop

        4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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        Geof @cosgig did a mod to Nellas 67 Sunfish I believe that helps reduce load on switch.
        He may chime in here.
         
      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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        Like with headlights you can run relays from the switch. You would need to run a dedicated heavy power source back to the pump then install relays that use the switch output to energize the relays
         
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        • burdar

          burdar Owen's Dad

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          Crackedback on this site makes relay kits for convertible tops. I have one of his headlight relay kits too. I mounted the convertible relays back by the pump.
          20200718_082659.jpg
           
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          • Dana67Dart

            Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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            BTW, you might just have a bad connection on the switch.

            Note that there are screw terminals on the back to the cir breaker.

            Screenshot_20220114-103017.png
             
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            • Dana67Dart

              Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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              Another thing, owners manual specifically says to have engine running while raising or lowering.

              Also if you had to, you can SLOWLY push the top down manually.
               
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              • RhinoMan68

                RhinoMan68 if its for a 1968 cuda 'vert I probably need it. FABO Gold Member

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                Like others have said the original switch is made from unobtainium (not available :) ) and the switch shown WILL work and IS rated at 50 AMPs. I'd also STRONGLY suggest (minimally) adding a 50 AMP circuit breaker back in to the line as that is what the factory did with that sidecar module mounted to the original switch. If you JUST use the switch, no circuit breakers or relays (actually a better suggestion) you are asking for a dash fire. These wires and connectors are 50 years old now and were never intended to last this long.
                 
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                • HemiSSDart

                  HemiSSDart Dartus Interuptus

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                  Exactly! If you know anything about electronics there is a spike when first turned on, that is what will fry the harness!
                   
                • Dana67Dart

                  Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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                  I think you mean 30 amp, (clearly visible on the photo i posted). Even 30 amp is most likely pushing the max rating of 12awg wire.
                   
                • RhinoMan68

                  RhinoMan68 if its for a 1968 cuda 'vert I probably need it. FABO Gold Member

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                  you are correct 30Amp
                   
                • Dana67Dart

                  Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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