Pippen
Member
I have a 71 with a 383 and small block rad. The thing won't stay cool. what's everyone using for a rad.
Cooling issues
- Thread starter Pippen
- Start date
If it kept a small block cool, it should keep a 383 cool. Can you maybe expound on the rest of the build and the rest of the cooling system so we don't have to pull teeth to get answers?
Pippen
Member
It’s a 68 HP pretty much stock with headers. I have a flex fan on it and two electric fans on the front blowing in. 185 T-stat. I’m thinking of just a champion rad. Worried it may not be enough.
Why the combo of aftermarket stuff? Stock engine = stock set-up. Shroud with a 7 blade, that's where I'd start. Just my .02.
(On a side note, I've seen the bottom hose get sucked flat if there is no spring in it)
(On a side note, I've seen the bottom hose get sucked flat if there is no spring in it)
How hot is it getting?
Pippen
Member
It’s got up to 230 or so. It would go higher if I let it.
And they will overheat and puke because of a bad cap.
The electric fans aren't the answer, they're just blocking air flow to the real fan. Find a -224 x 7 blade chysler fan and throw that speed shop flex fan in the trash where it belongs.
I cannot agree more strongly. That's not the case with all electric fans, but is with most of them people buy. If you don't spend around 250 bucks at the least, chances are you're not getting a good one. There are exceptions like some of the Ford fans some of the boys are using and they can be had pretty cheap in the salvage yards and those things will MOVE some air. They do require a little fab work of course to make work. But I'm like you. I'm a big fan of solid or clutch type fans driven off the engine.
Most of the "Overheating" issue threads here are engines not getting hot to puke coolant out. If it isn't barfing, it isn't overheating and the system is doing it's job. Don't pay too close attention to the factory gauges. With no numbers on them how can you tell?
Pippen
Member
Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself a less than 20 buck IR temperature gun and verify you're running that hot.
Pippen
Member
I’ve had two separate after market gauges. They both read the same. I like the idea of trying a better fan.
72Duster440
Well-Known Member
I ran a factory 26" radiator with the factory fan, shroud and water pump on my 440. I kept it at about 185 with a 180 stat in it. The radiator started leaking, so I went with a Champion 3 core aluminum and kept the factory fan and shroud, it keeps it about 180 most of the time. Last summer on a 96 degree day I got stuck in traffic and barely moved in an hour, it crept up to 210 then.
prodart440
Active Member
I have a 69 Dart with a 383. I am running a Cold Case radiator, 22", with the factory shroud, and a flex fan. It has a 180 thermostat, and it barely runs 180 on a hot summer day in Phoenix AZ. If I stop at a light, it might get to 190-195, but it cools right back down. I did have a problem when I first got it running. Changed the water pump to a Milodon high flow, and put a different high flow thermostat in it (it would get to 250 and puke before). The shroud helped keep it from heating up too fast at a stop.
Pippen
Member
I’ll need to check the timing as I just set it be ear.
Red_Duster
Well-Known Member
This is true. I did the Ford Contour fans in the 440 duster. They move crazy amounts of air and kept it plenty coo- provided your charging system is up to the substantial amp draw, especially on start-up.
If you don't mind dropping the money, look into the DeltPag fans. I have their brushless 18" as a pusher on the 383 Dart and it seems to be keeping it plenty cool (Hasn't been through a CA summer yet, though). They are low profile, quiet and soft start built right in.
I have a Champion 26" radiator, Ford Contour fans with a Dakota Digital controller on my 414 small block Duster. One comes on with the key, the other comes on at a set temperature. Can't remember what temp though. Stays below 200. Bought the fans thru Rock Auto.
Pippen
Member
yes
Pippen
Member
did you have to make any mods to get the 26'' rad in?
I don't remember whether I used the original holes but it's sitting on the core support. I just have bolts up toward the top. No cutting involved.
71Twister440
Well-Known Member
I like the idea of coming on with the key and other at a set temp, i have them set at two different temps, one temp for thermostat and the other is at 200 i believe... but when i hammer mine it creeps a little, 210-215 range, wondering if your option is a a better idea......
I had them both at a set temp at first but the temp would creep up to 210-220. Even on the highway! Would stay cool in traffic though. It's all good now.
