copper vs pvc compressor lines?

-
bigtommy

bigtommy

old school power
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
Messages
438
Reaction score
52
Location
chambersburg, PA
im looking to run lines for my air compressor and looked at lowes today and pvc is about 75percent cheaper then copper but some guys say never use pvc but it is tested for 600psi? you guys use pvc or copper? let me know pictures of your lines would be a plus. thanks. oh and what size? 1/2 in line?
 
Never PVC... I had a friend that had a line blow up and drove a piece of it through his eye and in to his head. He lost the eye and spent a long time in the hospital. The 600psi is a water pressure rating and water just shoots a stream instead of shrapnel going everywhere.

I run 3/4 galvanized iron pipe.
 
I've got schd 80 grey color pvc crossing overhead. Drops to quick connects are galvanized and anchored well. Compressor, lines, all installed about 20 years ago.
Never had a problem at 120 psi
 
PVC pipe is against OSHA regs and for good reason. I suspect that when severely cold it can get brittle, and when warm softens. Unlike liquids (water) when PVC breaks with an expandable gas (air) it explodes into shrapnel. I'd suspect that the "usual" hazards in a shop--vibration and impact damage also are a factor

http://www.wave3.com/story/17113807/explosion-at-fairdale-factory-injuries-reported

https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=NEWS_RELEASES&p_id=21567

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141899
 
Black iron pipe as already suggested. Fairly inexpensive, mine has been in service for years with 0 issues. Run a flexible line from compressor to pipe and I think it was 35 ft minimum for the length to allow the air to cool. I have maybe 40-50 ft 3/4 pipe ran in a u pattern to get my length then where my hose hooks up it raises up in another u shape with a drop leg after it, doing it that way further reduces moisture making it to tools, paint or whatever your using. Google for air compressor pipe layout and you'll find what you need to know.
 
we have 1/2" pvc schd 80 with a 175psi two stage compressor. all the pvc has been there for about 8 years or so.
 
If you hVe the money go copper. There is nothing I dread more then working with black iron but if you don't mind the headache then go for it. Stay away from PVC though, ohsa gets a few things right!
 
I have been debating using pex pipe for mine as it doesnt shatter.They use plastic for truck air lines so I think it should work.
 
Iron pipe is the way to go, the drop leg idea is also a plus but I would still have a filter/dryer in line also a regulator would be a good idea.
 
doogievlg said:
If you hVe the money go copper. There is nothing I dread more then working with black iron but if you don't mind the headache then go for it. Stay away from PVC though, ohsa gets a few things right!
Click to expand...

What is so hard about iron pipe? If you get it at Lowes they will cut and thread the lengths you want, then you use a T where you want an air connection and then continue to the next connection. I do recommend the drops that have been talked about. I always put a bleed off valve in the drop so I can drain any water that might get trapped there. I also use a water trap/dryer and an oil trap in the system. I still need to do my current building.
 
66plyValiant said:
I think I'd be more inclined to use Pex as well, PVC is brittle
Click to expand...
X2 or metal pipe,black pipe preferably due to corrosion resistance...pex is almost indestructable just dont quite trust the end fittings without an extra clamping force,prob just me never seen one come apart and at least it wouldnt explode into pieces..like pvc have seen that explode and it aint pretty...copper would be pricey but effective
 
67Dart/Cuda is correct about OSHA and PVC. In the event it fails it can shatter like glass and the manufacturers of PVC pipe put the note in their literature, "Not to be used for compressed air or gas". There are plastic systems designed for compressed air, one being called "Air Pro" that is rated at 230psi and is heat fused together. Even though iron and copper can easily handle high pressures, if I was going metal I would look at copper since it's cleaner than iron pipe with regards to moisture and compressor oils affecting it, if not using a filter and dryer.
 
I was in a shop when a pvc air line exploded. After that I would never use it. It was like a bomb went off.
 
There is no way I'd use plastic for high pressure air. Our shop used iron pipe. We had a 4 inch manifold pipe across the back of the shop that was slanted from the right. At the low end of the pipe was a drain valve. All of the connections tee-d off the top of the manifold. From there flexible air lines would run to "pigs" which held about a gallon of air and had from 4 to 8 quick connects on them. The paint booth ran a dedicated iron pipe line from the air tank on the compressor with a big drier on it. There were several quick connects in the booth. Guys running motors (e.g. buffers, drills, & saws) could run a line oiler if they saw fit.

The system was supplied by a gigantic Ingersoll Rand 350 cfm compressor running a max pressure of 120 psi. The 100 gallon compressor air tank and the manifold pipe were drained several times during the week. It was usually done at lunch time because it was possible to drain and re-fill the system in about an hour.

In the 3½ years I was with this company the only system failure was one circuit breaker on the compressor motor went out. There were no air line problems ever.
 
The workshop I work in has 2" Gal pipe airlines, with 1/2" retractable hoses, and the odd 1" Minsup lines for the 1" and bigger rattle guns.
I work on Caterpillar Mining equipment.....so, they need it.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
What is so hard about iron pipe? If you get it at Lowes they will cut and thread the lengths you want, then you use a T where you want an air connection and then continue to the next connection. I do recommend the drops that have been talked about. I always put a bleed off valve in the drop so I can drain any water that might get trapped there. I also use a water trap/dryer and an oil trap in the system. I still need to do my current building.
Click to expand...

I have never bought black iron from lowes or Home Depot so that make explain it. We just get the bare pipe and get to do all the threading which is a joy. I always perfet copper over black iron.
 
This is our monster. I piped it all in schedule 40 black iron. Started with 2" down to the 1/2" drops. Piped all over our 5000 sf shop. Dan
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20130818_070536_684 (Custom).jpg
    78.9 KB · Views: 933
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top