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some great ingenuity. i still cant believe there is that much play for supposed matching lug nuts. all my aftermarket wheels that require a shank style lug nut are a real snug fit. just make sure the lug nuts are super tight. what a pain the butt, you shouldnt have to be doing that. i would be sending e-mails and stirring up some crap over it, but thats just me hehe..
yes the washers are in place, and I whole heartedly agree there should be a better solution but untill I can come up with one or someone can enlighten me with one I`m stuck with this Moe:banghead:
Above all Moe, safety first! All the pretty wheels in the world aint worth taking risks. Good luck and i'll chime in if a solution comes to mind.
OFD, are these wheels small bolt pattern with 7/16 studs, or are they 4 1/2 with 1/2 inch studs? the reason i ask is i have a crap load of shank lug nuts
Been a while since i had a set of s/s Cragers, but if i recall the flange is not real thick, not like a Weld/Centerline type wheel. I reviewed your pics and your lug shanks incl. the washers look short enough, but just out of chance could they be bottoming out on the drum/hub before fully tightening? I know it's not likely, just throwing another idea out there:smile:.
You said you called Cragar? Did you know they are in made China now? :banghead: Maybe Cragar is going down the crapper now....sad cause they are an iconic American wheel for old cars.....
.............There's no way in hell i would run those spacers............get the prpoer shank lug nuts.....its not worth ur life or someone elses.....the shop that impacted on ur wheels should be buying u new 1s.........kim.........
X2 kim, i was just trying to be a little more diplomatic..post #29...:smile: I know some metric/sae theads are so close they almost seem like the'll work on each other. Could the lugs have been mispackaged and the slop ia actully in the threads? I know, im starting to obsess over this...lol
yea, me too, lol , ive just never had a cragar lug nut fit that loose and i have ran these wheels for years. i must have 50 or 75 lug nuts sitting around
Wheels, new or used? If new, you have wrong size lugs, period. They also require a thick washer. use a torque wrench 55-65 ft. lb. With the proper lugs, you should play heck getting them started, they`re that tight and are lugcentric.
............I've gotten the wrong shank size b 4 ....the right 1s r out there.......kim..............
Carlyle Transportation products is Cragar 800-398-1367, I talked to them this am he said they have been that way for years, as for the shims he says as long as they aren`t bottoming out on the hub it should not present any safety issues,if the metal shim wasn`t there all that would be there is air.Right????????? anin`t this fun Moe
..............Sounds like CT is a bunch of losers.....1 of my friends 1ce had a problem with the 7/16 shank bolts when he had a set of sbp axles drilled out to bbp as the Cragers came off a B body with 1/2 in studs,so the outside of the shank for the 7/16 was alot smaller than the 1/2 in shank, he found some, but i cant remember where...good luck in ur searches....kim........
Can you mic the shank and hole for us? Summits site says 7/16 lugs should have a 0.684 shank for cragars
Sounds like wrong size lugs were shipped to you. Measure the shank size of your current ones to confirm.
the ones for small bolt patt are a different size than standard cragars i got mine from a cragar dealer in Oklahoma i dont rember what size but when you ask if they have what you need and they only have 2 sizes they do not know what you need there are 3 different lug nut sizes i found old post That would have been Masseys in Oklahoma City. Their eBay ID is massey1946. http://myworld.ebay.com/massey1946/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 MASSEYS ACCESSORY SHOP, 405-239-2010, 1319 S. ROBINSON, OKLA. CITY, OK.
Aaaaaaa....I think you got incorrect lugs for the wheel. looks like uni-lug lugs on a non uni-lug wheel the lugs you need have a tapered end...and are similiar to Mopar rallye wheel lugs, in fact, that's what i'm using on my new Cragars....they are identical to the Cragar lugs that the wheel called for and Jegs tried to sell me with the wheels. These are different from the uni-lug that has a shoulder the correct shape of the lugnut cause the wheel center when it is tightened
Proof that Crack Kills !!!! Not in a million years would I run a set of rims with shims. Well maybe if I was stuck in the Sahara desert. You got the wrong lugs, plain and simple.
read my post number 40. Mic the hole and get the correct size shank. Cragar says .684 but check it yourself. I have bought many used classic wheels without lugs and this is the only way to be sure.I can imagine what I would have heard if i,d asked what lugs for my american racing coke bottles or daisys on the car in the sig
Plain and simple. those are not the correct lug nuts for you wheels and your application. You should be able to put the (predrilled) Cragar onto the studs and screw the lug nuts on a few turns before the base of the nut touches the wheel next to the hole. You can then lift the tire/wheel combo up to align it with the nuts then pull them towards you. Tighten the nuts a few turns at a time in a cris/cross pattern until the nuts and washers are seated against the rim. The lug nuts should fit through the holes with littls clearance or slop and shouldn't be too long so that they bottom out against the brake drum before they get tight against the wheel. If one of these things happens you have the wrong lug nuts! tmm
if you mic circumference and shank length you can match the right lugs from summits catalog.Search your car and keyword cragar lugs. look at the details link on the suggested lugs. Shank diameter and length will be there. Match them up and youre golden.
Ok hear is the sizes to the best I can the shank is .599 and the wheel hole is .632. Now .684 is over the size of the hole. The tire shop that did my alignment today had those lug bolts told me this is what I needed. I said if you can get that in the wheel I'll eat it. Well I went hungry!!!! They also after I told them to take the weight off the torsion bar adjustment bolt before trying to raise the ride height and stripped the driver side out, I had to goto a local parts yard and get two off a 65 dart. Just gets better:banghead:Moe
Is the hole chamfered to take an acorn nut? I had some Drag Stars that took really long shank nuts, those were a PITA to mount before I used the above mentioned procedure of starting them all and pulling the wheel onto them. Galled a few torquing them on before they were all straight....