KB9GIB
Well-Known Member
Can anyone show me how to use the Delphi crimpers? We bought them from American autowire I cannot find nothing on YouTube any help would be appreciate. KB9GIB thanks
Crimpers
- Thread starter KB9GIB
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KB9GIB
Well-Known Member
I’ll look closer tomorrow. It has some sort of spring L on the jaws also? I have never run into something I couldn’t figure out until now maybe it’s just so simple I’m over thinking it. Thanks KB9GIB
Sit down with a few extra connectors and practice. Then try with some wire inserted.
royslead
Well-Known Member
Some of these, are a ratcheting type, and/or compound leverage type jaw. So, you line up your terminal, in the appropriate sized crimping portion of the jaw, and squeeze. On a ratcheting type, you then open the handles, to reset it, then squeeze again. Once you've reached the proper amount of "squeeze" the jaws will release. If you have to release them beforehand, you use that extra lever.
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Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Those appear to be for non-insulated terminals.
Alan
Alan
Yes the "W" style crimps are non insulated
j par
Well-hung Member
American autoware usually gives a small baggie of practice pieces..
I find but sometimes pre-bending them just a slight to get them started with the tip of the pliers and then get them in the crimper kind of helps them go in the right direction...
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Also, SOME of these have (sometimes tricky) release for "if you screw up." That is, once you get the rachet going, it will not open until you squeeze them clear down. But if "something happens" as in, you inserted the terminal wrong, it got out of place and "caught" crooked, or bent/ damaged the terminal, look around at the tool carefully. Sometimes "down in" the works is the ratchet and or a small tab that you can release with a finger or a small screwdriver to abort the crimp
SOMEWHERE there should be a guide chart that shoes what terminals fit what dies
SOMEWHERE there should be a guide chart that shoes what terminals fit what dies
I always start with a larger cavity and finish with the proper gauge one. You need to get the tabs starting to bend in the proper direction.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yup. We had similar terminals at work, for no10. I always just bent them a bit with needle nose. LOL, for those type, there WERE no larger dies
pishta
I know I'm right....
I have an AMP crimper like that, the crimps look like little U channels and the open end goes away from the letters. The crimp forces the free ends toward the dimple and rolls them inboard. We have gel filled and dry crimps. It is also ratcheted and wont open until its all the way home, which sucks because sometimes you get pinched in the palm when you press down in the handle and there is no way to release it. I use a fingerless palm glove on that hand.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
We had maybe 6 different types of crimpers at work. All could be released in some way except for the one largest, most expensive, that did the no10 power cables for the newer modules.
The release is not always obvious. We had a couple of crimpers that nobody knew how to release until I fiddled with them a bit.
The release is not always obvious. We had a couple of crimpers that nobody knew how to release until I fiddled with them a bit.
A- red
B-blue
C-yellow
Make sure to set the seamed end in the female side or the male part of the crimp will spread the seam
B-blue
C-yellow
Make sure to set the seamed end in the female side or the male part of the crimp will spread the seam
I used a similar crimper for pin connectors on my airplane wiring. Mike is correct, using the next larger size to start, then finish with the correct size. With a little practice, you'll get, they make very nice crimps. Don't forget your shrink tubing, and learn to clock your wiring and ends so twisting into place is not necessary.
That's looks a little different than what AAW was selling in the past.
Same purpose - its for open barrel or "F" type crimps.
Lets Talk Open Barrel Crimpers - Reviews and Discussion
Same purpose - its for open barrel or "F" type crimps.
Lets Talk Open Barrel Crimpers - Reviews and Discussion
Just came across this one.
Its a Sargent 3182 CT. Looks like it crimps the insulation at the same time as the conductor.
Catalog state that its for terminals for 20 to 14 gage.
it also says 20 - 10. go figure
Maybe
A 18-20 ?
B 16 ? or 16- 14 ?
C 14 ? or 12 - 10 ?
You'll have to see how specific terminals and wires actually fit. After you crimp, give it a tug. Shouldn't move.
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Those look like good ones. HD for sure. The "W" style crimps are a little tricky to get on to and to make them to look right and be strong. I always suggested setting down with some wire and a handful of terminals and practice before messing up a harness. 2 tabs hold the conductor and 2 hold the insulation. When you do one right it's a beautiful thing. Just think of the harness assembler at the factory. They could do them in their sleep.
Here is my Mac Tools pin connector crimper, but I have used it occasionally on auto connections. The rachet crimper is aircraft, it has a strain relief. That is for the plastic on your terminal, it helps support the wire against vibration breakage. Soldering, though I like it best, can be prone to breakage, where ever the solder stops, that is your weak point.
Middle one looks like another GM open barrel crimper now made by Sargent.
Sargent may have bought out another tool manufacturer so may not have been the maker of the originals; or maybe they are - they've been around long enough.
Crimps the conductor and insulation in two seperate steps. Supposedly for 22 to 12 gage 56, 58, 59 Series Packard terminals and similar.
Came across these on Mouser and Sargent's website when looking for a crimper made for 10 and even 8 gage wire for ring terminals. (nothing to report on that front).
Sargent may have bought out another tool manufacturer so may not have been the maker of the originals; or maybe they are - they've been around long enough.
Crimps the conductor and insulation in two seperate steps. Supposedly for 22 to 12 gage 56, 58, 59 Series Packard terminals and similar.
Came across these on Mouser and Sargent's website when looking for a crimper made for 10 and even 8 gage wire for ring terminals. (nothing to report on that front).
DartGTDan
'71 Dart GT Fan
Check to see if your crimper will perform a 2 stage crimp (like the one shown here). If so, it's just a matter of stripping enough insulation to expose the stranded wire. Be careful you don't get any insulation in the stranded copper portion of the crimp. You could also add a little solder to insure the connection.
Picture courtesy of Google. I added the text & arrows.
Picture courtesy of Google. I added the text & arrows.
Exactly.
There's a number of situations where forming each crimp is better or easier. Also the single crimp (non-stepped) jaw is needed for the open barrel splices.
I agree on the soldering too. I now limit use to only when really seems needed, and only when there's good support nad strain relief so that doesn't become a breakage point.
There's a number of situations where forming each crimp is better or easier. Also the single crimp (non-stepped) jaw is needed for the open barrel splices.
I agree on the soldering too. I now limit use to only when really seems needed, and only when there's good support nad strain relief so that doesn't become a breakage point.
TCT 1028. I bet I sold 2-300 of those
Isn't it funny, never solder it, unless you have to solder it. Sorry, I always soldered with shrink wrap, then I built an airplane. I then got this lecture. Having said that, there's a lot more vibration/resonance in an airplane than a car, but it is there, probably not as many cycles. The airplane, I literally wrapped and supported everything. You had to overdue everything, you can't pull over to the side of the road when flying!
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