D100 360 Build Advice

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mopowers

mopowers

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Hey Guys. I’m wondering if you could look over the part’s we’ve been gathering for my dad’s '71 D100 longbed and tell me what you think. We found a free '79 4bbl 360 from a truck that he’s rebuilding to mostly stock, with the addition of a few bolt-ons.

The bottom end is stock with new rings, bearings, etc. Advertised CR is 8.4:1, but I’ve heard that most often they’re closer to 8:1 or less. We’ll be checking it once the short block is assembled. Heads are stock 586s (1.88”, 1.60”) with new replacement 340 valve springs and fresh valve job. For a cam, we’re looking at Comp’s XE256H, which is just a step above stock at 212*/218*, .447”/.455”, 110LSA with stock rockers. We may go for the smaller XE250H if the compression ends up being stupid low. Others we're considering are lunati's 700 and 701.

Other parts we’ve gathered for cheap or free are a new double roller timing set, Edelbrock RPM intake, Holley 80457S 600 vac sec carb, MP electronic ignition w/ recurved distributor. Truck also has headers and dual exhaust, 727, 8.75 w/ 3.23s.

The truck is just his cruiser for him to get his coffee in the morning and will likely never see 5,000 RPM. We’re shooting for a reliable low budget upgrade over the tired 318/2bbl that it currently has.

What are your thoughts on this combo? Would I be better off trying to find a used Edelbrock performer manifold instead of the RPM (non-airgap) intake? Does anything stand out to you?

Thanks!
 
Well, I have a '78 Adventurer that I have an '87 360 in. I never took the long block apart. It's got a Caomp XE262 cam, Performaer 318/369 intake, billet timing set, Comp 901-16 springs with the exh rotators replaced with standard valve retainers, new valve seals, cheap *** headers, an Edelbrock 750, and MSD on a recurved electronic distributor. I stuck a windage tray in it, and tuned it well. It runs cheap *** 87, starts every time regardless of temperature, and in a one ton frame with twin Dana60s and an NP205 transfer case will push an 8' Meyers plow up a 20% grade. It will also smoke the 31" Mud Terrains in 2wd. In an A body, or in a D series that weighs 1K lbs less it would be a riot. It's been in my truck for 10 years now. I think you're on the right track. Maybe go a hair bigger on your cam selection - the 262 build power right off idle and pulls hard to my 4800 "peak" rpm. I cruise around 2100 at 50 so it's right where it should be.
 
For a stock truck I think it will be really nice.

I'd stay with the 212* cam and use ether KB-107 or speed pro's 116 Hyper slugs for a mild but still get very pump gas friendly engine. Don't mill the deck for a zero deck, the slugs will be below deck some and a thick gasket can fix anything to high.
 
If you have the rpm intake run it but if buying look for a performer and match the intake ports to the head.It would likely be cheaper used than an rpm as well.
Looks like a fun build that will deliver smiles.
 
moper said:
Well, I have a '78 Adventurer that I have an '87 360 in. I never took the long block apart. It's got a Caomp XE262 cam, Performaer 318/369 intake, billet timing set, Comp 901-16 springs with the exh rotators replaced with standard valve retainers, new valve seals, cheap *** headers, an Edelbrock 750, and MSD on a recurved electronic distributor. I stuck a windage tray in it, and tuned it well. It runs cheap *** 87, starts every time regardless of temperature, and in a one ton frame with twin Dana60s and an NP205 transfer case will push an 8' Meyers plow up a 20% grade. It will also smoke the 31" Mud Terrains in 2wd. In an A body, or in a D series that weighs 1K lbs less it would be a riot. It's been in my truck for 10 years now. I think you're on the right track. Maybe go a hair bigger on your cam selection - the 262 build power right off idle and pulls hard to my 4800 "peak" rpm. I cruise around 2100 at 50 so it's right where it should be.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input! That sounds like a very similar combo. I'm glad you like it. Are you using stock rockers and pushrods? Which valve spring retainers are you using?
 
mopowers said:
Thanks for the input! That sounds like a very similar combo. I'm glad you like it. Are you using stock rockers and pushrods? Which valve spring retainers are you using?
Click to expand...
I'd like to help, mopowers. I think this has been stated in other threads for ya, not sure. Factory retainers will work just fine (though I wouldn't with the comp 901 spring), just get rid of the rotaters. You can even use the factory 360 springs, just have them tested to make sure they are up to par. You are way over thinking this. I mentioned to you that I used the 48.00 dollar Eddy springs with a .454 lift cam, zero issues.
 
rumblefish360 said:
For a stock truck I think it will be really nice.

I'd stay with the 212* cam and use ether KB-107 or speed pro's 116 Hyper slugs for a mild but still get very pump gas friendly engine. Don't mill the deck for a zero deck, the slugs will be below deck some and a thick gasket can fix anything to high.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, he's sticking with stock pistons. he just heard from the machine shop that the bores are in good shaped as are the pistons, so he's just gonna hot tank it, magnaflux the block, hone the cylinder walls, lifter bores, surface the deck if needed, install new cam bearings, intermediate shaft bushing, etc. Thanks again.
 
496 polara said:
If you have the rpm intake run it but if buying look for a performer and match the intake ports to the head.It would likely be cheaper used than an rpm as well.
Looks like a fun build that will deliver smiles.
Click to expand...

We've already got an RPM intake. I'm thinking the performer would've been a better choice as well. Maybe I can find one cheap before he puts it back together.
 
318willrun said:
I'd like to help, mopowers. I think this has been stated in other threads for ya, not sure. Factory retainers will work just fine (though I wouldn't with the comp 901 spring), just get rid of the rotaters. You can even use the factory 360 springs, just have them tested to make sure they are up to par. You are way over thinking this. I mentioned to you that I used the 48.00 dollar Eddy springs with a .454 lift cam, zero issues.
Click to expand...

I realize I'm overthinking this. I'm a scientist for gods sake, it's what I do. LOL. I just want to make sure there's nothing else in the combo that stands out.

I looked into those edelbrock springs. Thanks for that.
 
mopowers said:
I realize I'm overthinking this. I'm a scientist for gods sake, it's what I do. LOL. I just want to make sure there's nothing else in the combo that stands out.

I looked into those edelbrock springs. Thanks for that.
Click to expand...
I've ran the factory stock 318 springs before with a .474 lift/ 280 duration MP cam. Still didn't have any issues. A .450 lift cam is nothing for a small block mopar. Factory 360 4bbl's had .444 lift. You are doing mild upgrades to your 360, and it will respond very well. It will be tough, reliable and you'll enjoy it.
 
Thank you sir. When I spoke to Comp, the tech guy said to go with the XE250 and that the stock 360 cam was in the 180's @.050". I've since learned that you're right, the stock cam was the same as stock 340 AT cams- .429/.444. It's amazing how misinformed some of the tech guys are for these auto parts manufactures.
 
mopowers said:
Thank you sir. When I spoke to Comp, the tech guy said to go with the XE250 and that the stock 360 cam was in the 180's @.050". I've since learned that you're right, the stock cam was the same as stock 340 AT cams- .429/.444. It's amazing how misinformed some of the tech guys are for these auto parts manufactures.
Click to expand...
If you truly have the .429/.444 cam, that is the one of the best cams for your application. That cam has tons of potential. It works great in 273's - 360's. Low end torque and will pull up to 6k with headers and 4bbl.
do what ya want, but I'd put new lifters with that cam (providing it was in excellent shape) and use it.
 
318willrun said:
If you truly have the .429/.444 cam, that is the one of the best cams for your application. That cam has tons of potential. It works great in 273's - 360's. Low end torque and will pull up to 6k with headers and 4bbl.
do what ya want, but I'd put new lifters with that cam (providing it was in excellent shape) and use it.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I was a dumbass when I was tearing the motor apart and tossed the cam thinking it was no good.
 
Ehhhh, that's OK, there still available new, IF you wanted it.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Ehhhh, that's OK, there still available new, IF you wanted it.
Click to expand...

Besides that there are better cam choices that have more lift and more duration at .050" yet have a lower advertised duration which will increase the compression to boot.
 
Another question. Does anyone know why the valve stem seals for the intake and exhaust side are different?

MV1918_ANG__ra_t.jpg


ST2048_ANG__ra_t.jpg
 
T-N-T said:
Besides that there are better cam choices that have more lift and more duration at .050" yet have a lower advertised duration which will increase the compression to boot.
Click to expand...

Which cam do you have in mind? Thanks for the input.
 
So, my dad finally heard final word on the engine block from the machinist and the machinist said it will probably use oil if he reused the stock pistons. So, my dad is going to have him take it .030 over and order new pistons. Is there an affordable piston that'll give him a slightly higher compression ratio? His machinist was just going to order stock replacement speed pro pistons.
 
Badger for stock replacements
More compression? Federal Mougal hypers with rings at Summit. Good package price.
 
Looks like they decided to go with the H405CPs since they were cheaper. I tried to talk him into some H116CPs. Sometimes I wish my dad wasn't so cheap. Oh well, it's his truck.
 
I know it's a stupid question, but will replacing pistons require the machinist to balance the rotating assembly on this 360?
 
I'd spend the money to make It Perfect even if the weights listed were very close. A smooth running engines cost becomes a distant forgotten memory after years of excellent service.
 
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