1. TheGrateRonzini

    TheGrateRonzini FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Spinning hub caps
     
  2. Redfoxestco

    Redfoxestco Well-Known Member

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    Thank you! That calculator is incredible
     
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    • Redfoxestco

      Redfoxestco Well-Known Member

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      Why are you assuming this is bullshit? Is everyone else replacing driveshaft for this swap as well?
       
    • TheGrateRonzini

      TheGrateRonzini FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Just because of the 383 stroker. That’s all. Unless I missed something important here. What trans are you running? Is it a 383 that has been stroked after being a 383? If so what is the new cid? I replaced an 8 3/4 in mine so I didn’t cut the a body one. The ford 8.8 that I put in the valiant is way closer to your price goal. Disc brakes, no cut, no axle swap, got rims from a jeep compass and welded perches
       
    • Jadaharabi

      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Good grief give the guy a break. In post number one it says he has a Dana and he wants to know how to build it to put in his car. He didn't say should I put a 8.8 or 8 3/4 or a 12-bolt Chevy he said he has a Dana.

      It's like when somebody says they want help in figuring out how to build a 318. The next thing you know you got 10 people telling him to forget the 318 and put a 360 in. Then you got another half a dozen guys, saying take that 360 and stroke it. Not one bit of help to help him with the 318.
       
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      • TheGrateRonzini

        TheGrateRonzini FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        I wasn’t trying to be a dick. But by the time you add up everything it takes to make it a successful swap, it is no longer a <500$ project. That’s all. I listed everything I could think of previous to that post that is needed for the swap. I forgot the shim kit and tapered bearings too. Not the cheap way in my experience. The chevy engine thing was where I got confused.
        Without a new set of gears and assuming he has the bearing pullers and press and spreader it still costs about a grand before brakes/plates/ebrake. Not to mention the inch lb torque wrench needed to set the pinion preload. Assuming all the cleaning and grinding and welding is free. And reading the pattern time and time again. Making dummy races so you don’t ruin the shims each time you have to take out the pinion. And the yoke, u joints and driveshaft. Believe me, I am all for swap, but it isn’t cheap the first time
         
      • Jadaharabi

        Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        .
        A 12 bolt Chevy is "THE" chevy boy's greatest rearend, not an engine.
        All the rear axles are going to need the very same parts. As for setting up the gears, you can have a shop do it for $150 to $250. Then there is no need to buy special tools.
        I can build a truck dana for a car for $1000 to $1250 from buying the dana to mounting it in the car. Or even cheaper using the 30 spline carrier and shortened resplined axles.
         
      • SGBARRACUDA

        SGBARRACUDA ROY FABO Gold Member

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        Point made. Give it a break!
         
      • j par

        j par Well-hung Member

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        I've had four rear ends in my Duster. I knew what I was going to do so first thing I did was got rid of the seven and a quarter before I even drove the car. I got an 8 and 1/4 and that worked fine. I put my 410 Stroker motor in and knew that eight and a quarter was not going to last and before I broke it I sold it and spent $1,200-1300 building a 8 and 3/4. in about 20 passes at the track I blew the ring gear off the back of it.
        Now I built my fourth rear end the Dana 60. I bought a 3/4 ton Dodge heavy duty Dana 60.. for 160 bucks. I sold the brakes and the axles for 40 bucks. I called Dr Diff (Cass) and ordered axle housing ends for I think 75 bucks. I bought axles with green bearings and long studs for 300 bucks I bought a lightweight spool for $125 and I think $50 for bringing pinion bearings or maybe it was just ring bearings..
        he also gave me some handwritten dimensions for the axle for my guy to cut and set everything properly...
        Also bought new perches.. I paid $300 to have them professionally shortened and the ends welded on the purchase welded on and the tubes welded to the housing.
        All in I was $100 less than building the 8 and 3/4... at about 1200 to 1250...
        A couple points I'd like to make, first off if the rear end is a little bit heavier the weight is right where you want it over the back tires.. second I've only changed the gears once and I've never had the inclination to try and do it multiple times per day or per week when I had my 8 and 3/4... I've always been somewhere between 4:10 and 3:55's. Love the 355 ...
        and knowing me somewhere along the line I have a complete thread with pictures of everything but it's been a while..
        please keep me out of the flaming arguments this is just my experience and no one can deny my experience...
         
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