Dana 60 under 73 swinger..need id

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vegasanthony

vegasanthony

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So I picked up the start a few years ago finally got around to the restoration


EDIT....( after looking through about 400 pictures on Summit and the guys on here I have determined that this is a shortened Dana 60 6 lug. 55 wms
27 " 30 spline
with
1975 Toyota 1/2 ton pickup --backing plate / 10 inch drums/ bearings)


As you can see I'm going to have a real issue matching Wheels LOL
I know a little bit about differentials here's the story I turn the wheel One Way both Wheels turn not sure what kind of locking device this would be any help would be appreciated
I have no history on this axle

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Dana power lock. As good as it can get for the street. Imho

Might want to redrill the axles for 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern.
 
vegasanthony said:
So I picked up the start a few years ago finally got around to the restoration

As you can see I'm going to have a real issue matching Wheels LOL
I know a little bit about differentials here's the story I turn the wheel One Way both Wheels turn not sure what kind of locking device this would be any help would be appreciated
I have no history on this axle

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pull the axles, get new ones made with the 5x4.5 pattern by Doc Diff or Moser for about 300 bucks.
 
Wow you guys are fast I had barely enough time to post more pics


Any idea if these can be redrilled or will I have to order new

Any help on the new 5 lug brake drums im and I'm going to need

or should I have those drilled ?
 
If you redrill the axles then redrill the drums too.
If you replace the axles you may want to replace the drums and backing plates.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Dana power lock. As good as it can get for the street. Imho

Might want to redrill the axles for 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern.
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Redrilling a 6 bolt wheel to 5 is darned near impossible. That rear end came out of a pick up. You might be better with a 8 1/4 or a 8 3/4 rear. That's F**cked up!
 
More than likely Jeep J-10 or J20. IIRC, mid 70s 3/4 ton Chevys used 14 bolt GM semi float axles. I bet those rear brakes are some heavy jokers!
 
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Jadaharabi said:
I would pull an axle out and count the splines if your going to replace them.
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If there not 30 or 35 spline I would replace the side gears in the power loc to 35s and narrow the housing to 51 1/2 inches and get some dr diff disc brakes along with the new axles.
That was a long sentence. lol
 
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If it was a narrowed Chevy rear end they did a damn fine job

on it I'm leaning more towards a J Truck axle it's the only 6 lug axle Dana 60 axle in that width
 
So I'm thinking for the money it's going to cost me to get this to 5 on 4 and 1/2 I might as well go buy an exploder.8.8 axle
 
vegasanthony said:
So I'm thinking for the money it's going to cost me to get this to 5 on 4 and 1/2 I might as well go buy an exploder.8.8 axle
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It’d cost you way more and you’d be going to a much weaker axle. Seriously. It’d be stupid to go from a Dana 60 that fits to a subpar axle that’s gonna have to be made to fit. Simply call dr diff or moser. You can get custom cut axles to any length for less than 300 that will slide right in. Then get the right drums, which are cheap, and bam problem solved
 
dukeboy_318 said:
It’d cost you way more and you’d be going to a much weaker axle. Seriously. It’d be stupid to go from a Dana 60 that fits to a subpar axle that’s gonna have to be made to fit. Simply call dr diff or moser. You can get custom cut axles to any length for less than 300 that will slide right in. Then get the right drums, which are cheap, and bam problem solved
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I see your point..

Any idea how to go about sourcing a dana 60 rear brake drum 5 on 4.5?
 
Looks like that car has a 3" spring relocation, which means that axle has probably been shortened.You can see the empty stock spring mount (top arrow) and what looks like it could be a weld inline with the bottom arrow. Right at where the tube swedges down?

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I would be looking to get new axles and brakes as well, but be sure to confirm the length and spline count first. DoctorDiff should be a good resource for you!
 
Why would you use this axle? Was it really cheap?
IF you plan to drag race it with the hopes of getting into the 10s, I could see the appeal. The Dana 60 is nearly indestructible in a light car BUT it is heavy and takes HP to spin. Same with a 727 VS a 904. I had a buddy with a 340/416 Challenger that chose a Dana 60 before stepping down to an 8 3/4" axle.
Yeah, you can change the axles, brakes, fit a drive shaft and make it work but you are getting away from a CHEAP build. The axles alone could run you $400 or more. You could get an Explorer 8.8 from a self serve yard on a half price special for well under $200. That gets you disc brakes and the right lug pattern.
Good luck.
 
vegasanthony said:
I see your point..

Any idea how to go about sourcing a dana 60 rear brake drum 5 on 4.5?
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They use the same drums and backing plates flown the car version as the 8.75. With the measurements you’re giving, you may get away with just needing to swap the drums
 
Kern Dog said:
Why would you use this axle? Was it really cheap?
IF you plan to drag race it with the hopes of getting into the 10s, I could see the appeal. The Dana 60 is nearly indestructible in a light car BUT it is heavy and takes HP to spin. Same with a 727 VS a 904. I had a buddy with a 340/416 Challenger that chose a Dana 60 before stepping down to an 8 3/4" axle.
Yeah, you can change the axles, brakes, fit a drive shaft and make it work but you are getting away from a CHEAP build. The axles alone could run you $400 or more. You could get an Explorer 8.8 from a self serve yard on a half price special for well under $200. That gets you disc brakes and the right lug pattern.
Good luck.
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It sounds like the axle came in the car when he bought it, so it’s already been fitted. Why go thru and have to find a straight 8.8 and then deal with getting it all fitted when the axle he has will work just fine?
 
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