Dart Twin Snorkle Cold Air Intake

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mario03srt

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All,

First of all I wanted to thank Demon 408 for sharing his Fresh Air Hood project to all here on FABO. I had been wondering on what to do to use the scoop and get some better air into the car both at a stop in the summer and while at speed. I deviated slightly from his recipe to get more air in. Thanks for the inspiration!

N96 One-of-None 1972 Demon Fresh-Air Hood

I already had an air cleaner and filter to begin with so I did not need to source those pieces. But did buy a K&N Top Filter to maximize breathing and to reduce turbulance. The air will enter in a straight shot mostly.

I did score a 17 x 3 Cake Pan off of Amazon and the rubber seal from Jegs. I used 4 sheetmetal screws and some Ultra Black gasket maker to seal the air cleaner base to the cake pan. I did need to make a center hole in the pan obviously to accept the throttle body. Cleaned the pan and hit it with some Self Etching Primer, some Duplicolor Hemi Orange paint and some clear.

I decided to run with three 4" holes instead of the factory 2. The third locates perfectly under the snorkle scoop and creates a triangle over the K&N Top Filter Lid. I bought the hole inserts from DMT, be sure to use a 4" hole saw bit for the inserts when cutting your one of a kind hood, lol. There is some guidance to use a 4 1/8" saw but take it from me that's incorrect for a perfect fit. The inserts are a slight bit generous in the ID of the slot. Remember measure 3 times, drill once.

In order to not remove the hood I made a 4" dia cardboard template, put a pin hole in the center. From the underside of the hood locate where you want your holes. You can see the triangle shaped recess under the hood where the scoop surrounds, you must be in this area! Mark the pin hole center with a sharpy. This is your pilot hole. From the underside still, drill in a pilot hole(s) at the sharpy marks. The "pilot hole drill bit" should be very close to the "drill bit on the hole saw". Err on being undersized a tad. Now from the top side of the hood while closed, and your engine covered with a drop cloth under the hood, drill your holes. I drilled the 4" hole from the top because I could get a nice 90 degree approach to the hood. Hole saws can be a bit crazy and try to break wrists or jump, this way I got a nice slow even cut. As a tip, trace the 4 inch hole on top of the hood before hole sawing and cover the circles with masking tape to prevent chipping etc. while making the 4" hole.

The gasket was shortened to fit snug around the cake pan and some adhesive used to secure. I will after the apocolypse get a rivet gun to finish properly.

I can definitely hear the air being pulled thru the scoop at an idle. I can't say that the seal is absolutely air tight but is "pretty good" and overall this will make a large improvement in the summer months.

Cheers,
Marion

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Nicely done! I was making something similar to this, but grabbed an air cleaner from an old diesel powered Cadillac from the junk yard. Then went to a tunnel ram for now.
 
Now you all need to get a magnahelic and measure the static pressure inside your air cleaner. Getting the correct range would be the trial and error problem. Most can register a difference. Like the pressure at the entrance vs the pressure in the air filter chamber. If you have pressure or at minimum no vacuume (at speed)
in the air cleaner your doing something right.

Dwyer Ins Magnehelic Pressure Gauge Max Pressure 15 PSIG 2010 C Inches of Water
 
Now you all need to get a magnahelic and measure the static pressure inside your air cleaner. Getting the correct range would be the trial and error problem. Most can register a difference. Like the pressure at the entrance vs the pressure in the air filter chamber. If you have pressure or at minimum no vacuume (at speed)
in the air cleaner your doing something right.

Dwyer Ins Magnehelic Pressure Gauge Max Pressure 15 PSIG 2010 C Inches of Water

Hi,
I doubt that there will be much if any air pressure to speak of. I'm assuming that you are speaking at some given ground speed? This mod is intended to stop chugging 180-200 air from the heat soaked engine and ex headers. Or when the dual fans kick in at a stop etc and cram the engine bay with heat. I'll be blasphemous and venture to say most of all the factory stuff did neither. At 70 mph I'll be at 3k and more than likely sucking in all that she will flow but not getting force fed. The K&N Top just lets in sooo much air that the sides are really along for support IMO. Maybe you have seen the Engine Masters episode on air cleaners?

Thanks,
Marion
 
That episode of engine masters prompted me to make mine out of a salad bowl! I now have the K&N filtered top too!

Cley
20180826_092103.jpg
 
All,

First of all I wanted to thank Demon 408 for sharing his Fresh Air Hood project to all here on FABO. I had been wondering on what to do to use the scoop and get some better air into the car both at a stop in the summer and while at speed. I deviated slightly from his recipe to get more air in. Thanks for the inspiration!

N96 One-of-None 1972 Demon Fresh-Air Hood

I already had an air cleaner and filter to begin with so I did not need to source those pieces. But did buy a K&N Top Filter to maximize breathing and to reduce turbulance. The air will enter in a straight shot mostly.

I did score a 17 x 3 Cake Pan off of Amazon and the rubber seal from Jegs. I used 4 sheetmetal screws and some Ultra Black gasket maker to seal the air cleaner base to the cake pan. I did need to make a center hole in the pan obviously to accept the throttle body. Cleaned the pan and hit it with some Self Etching Primer, some Duplicolor Hemi Orange paint and some clear.

I decided to run with three 4" holes instead of the factory 2. The third locates perfectly under the snorkle scoop and creates a triangle over the K&N Top Filter Lid. I bought the hole inserts from DMT, be sure to use a 4" hole saw bit for the inserts when cutting your one of a kind hood, lol. There is some guidance to use a 4 1/8" saw but take it from me that's incorrect for a perfect fit. The inserts are a slight bit generous in the ID of the slot. Remember measure 3 times, drill once.

In order to not remove the hood I made a 4" dia cardboard template, put a pin hole in the center. From the underside of the hood locate where you want your holes. You can see the triangle shaped recess under the hood where the scoop surrounds, you must be in this area! Mark the pin hole center with a sharpy. This is your pilot hole. From the underside still, drill in a pilot hole(s) at the sharpy marks. The "pilot hole drill bit" should be very close to the "drill bit on the hole saw". Err on being undersized a tad. Now from the top side of the hood while closed, and your engine covered with a drop cloth under the hood, drill your holes. I drilled the 4" hole from the top because I could get a nice 90 degree approach to the hood. Hole saws can be a bit crazy and try to break wrists or jump, this way I got a nice slow even cut. As a tip, trace the 4 inch hole on top of the hood before hole sawing and cover the circles with masking tape to prevent chipping etc. while making the 4" hole.

The gasket was shortened to fit snug around the cake pan and some adhesive used to secure. I will after the apocolypse get a rivet gun to finish properly.

I can definitely hear the air being pulled thru the scoop at an idle. I can't say that the seal is absolutely air tight but is "pretty good" and overall this will make a large improvement in the summer months.

Cheers,
Marion

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that's pretty killer! I have two four inch holes existing but if you do the math that's less than 30 square inches of air which is required to achieve any real benefit that third hole does the trick I never thought about that
 
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