Dart wont start and need to get to work by 5p...helpp

[gdizzle]

66 slant 225 dart. running fine (other than rough cold idle) parked it last night, no issue.
this am I decide I want to put in new spark plug wires because my #1 wire looked liked it wasn't fully seating (because it is too taut). What I did: put a new vacuum hose from distrib to carb, put on a EGR delete plate, then removed all spark plugs, inspected, brushed off the soot, checked gap, reinstalled. Then put on the new wires, now it gets fishy. I decided if I shift each wire over 1 spot, then my taut wire wont be so taut. So I carefully shifted each wire 1 ahead. then I shifted over another spot, so 2 total. now my wires were great, no tautness. go to start, and turns over and over but never starts. I mash the pedal and I start to get faster turns but then still wont start. like no spark? so then spend several hours, moving wires, putting a new wire terminal at the coil connection. Still nothing. Then put the old wires back on, nothing. Put the old wires back on the way I originally had them ordered and nothing. I took off cap and inspected, seems fine. only a year old(cap, distrib.,rotor, wires).
What did I do? I will mention my original order is out of whack, like 180 off. But that has never caused any problems, drove fine for the year. I put engine at TDC and see rotor is pointing toward front, like 4'o clock. and now I need to call Uber to get me to work?? help.
also I put dielectric grease on the new wires, would that keep it from firing up?

 

[Marcohotrod]

did u loosen the distrib hold down? and rotate the distrib? if u didn't, then when u put the wires back on the original way it should start. when u moved wires over 2 spots u need to rotate distrib 2 spots worth so the rotor is pointing at the same wire it was. when engine is at about 10 degrees before tdc firing, the rotor needs to point to #1 plug wire in the cap

 

[krazykuda]

If you've rearranged the wires, here's how to get them correct:

Find TDC on the engine. Pull the spark plug and put your finger over the hole for #1 cyl, when the pressure builds up and pushes on your finger, you are on the compression stroke, bring the piston in #1 to TDC... This is now your TDC to use for here on out...

Where is the rotor on the distributor pointing when #1 is at TDC??? Make that your terminal on the cap for #1 spark plug wire. Now go around the distributor cap in the direction of rotor rotation and follow the firing order... 1-5-3-6-2-4 Put the wires on the cap in that order in the direction of rotor rotation...

Then give it a few degrees of advance for the distributor and try to fire it up...

 

[krazykuda]

Just to verify:

Are all of the spark plugs tight???

(check everything....)

 

[krazykuda]

Now do you have spark when you crank it over? Take an old spark plug and disconnect one spark plug wire. Put that wire on the old plug, then hold the bottom electrode of the plug to a ground (any metal engine part will do...). Crank the engine and look for spark...

If you are getting spark, then check to make sure that you are getting gas... with the engine off while looking down the carb and moving the throttle, look for a squirt of gas...

If you are getting spark, gas, and air, it should start - just a matter of getting the timing close. After it starts, then set the timing with a timing light...

 

[gdizzle]

In theory, it shouldnt matter which point of the distributor I call "1", right? As long as I keep the correct firing order, shouldnt it work?
I just spent an hour cleaning the dielectric grease off all of the contacts, just in case. no change. I need to check for a spark but have no time. I am suspecting somehow the coil just quit on me? I supposed I could go pick up a new coil from Oreilly and see if it helps? if not I can return it for refund.
Now I need to call an Uber driver. keep hitting me with ideas, as I need to be able to get to work tomorrow as well, and I cant afford another Uber ride after today.

 

[krazykuda]

In theory, it shouldnt matter which point of the distributor I call "1", right? As long as I keep the correct firing order, shouldnt it work?.

Yes, just as I described above....

You need to verify that you have spark...

 

[krazykuda]

Get a volt meter and check voltage into the ballast, out of the ballast, + coil, and - coil...

Don't throw money away without testing first...

 

[Marcohotrod]

your theory is missing part 3. put # 1 anywhere, install the other wires per firing order, AND rotate distrib as needed! and it is needed! and sometimes the vacuum advance unit clearance puts a limit on doing this

 

[gunbunny]

Air, fuel, fire!
Whats missing?
You stated that cleaned the old plugs, at $2.00 ea. replace them. Mopars love Champions and seem to puke up anything else. Others will disagree, your car, do as you wish.
But, over and above that, A-body owners (all Mopar owners in fact) should all have an extra ballast resistor in the glove box!
Yours may look like above.
Yours may be a dual type. Both are good.
I'm no where near your car, but if I was guessing, this is where I would start. Way to many times this has been the culprit of your same issue.

 

[krazykuda]

your theory is missing part 3. put # 1 anywhere, install the other wires per firing order, AND rotate distrib as needed! and it is needed! and sometimes the vacuum advance unit clearance puts a limit on doing this

Have you ever tuned a slant? There's a limiter on how far you can rotate the distributor...

 

[gunbunny]

Have you ever tuned a slant? There's a limiter on how far you can rotate the distributor...

I tend to agree, but I'm thinking you may have a bad ballast resistor and made a small problem bigger by mucking around.
Check the voltage in / out of the ballast, if good go to the coil. Remember the basics first. Air, fuel, fire.
If you have the basics, then do your drill down on the trouble shooting.
You seem to be leaning towards fire, verify the reason for no fire. Go to the half way point and either go forward or back, depending on what your findings tell you.
good luck, and happy hunting!

 

[gdizzle]

Little time today, see if we can get her back up. Otherwise another Uber ride. What if an Uber rider showed up in a A body? So I researched www and the Ballast appears to bypass while starting the engine, and only kicks in once engine has fired up? If that is true, then do I rule it out? However I am more than able to test volts on it, but how? Does engine need to be cranking in order to test voltage? and what should voltage be?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Put the wires back like they were.

 

[gdizzle]

Hey BroPars, update: went out this am, checked ohms on Ballast, found that it shows about 1ohm (this takes into account resistance of my test leads). I read somewhere it should be 1.8? Anyhow, prepared to do spark test, had wife turn it, and not only is there spark but it sounds like it wants to start. So rehooked plug, started no problem, lots of nice dark exhaust for a few seconds, and somewhat rough idle still.(this is with all orig wires back in their original place). So I then replaced the wires, and put them in a different rotation, so that 1 is at 4 oclock which is TDC. Tried to start and wont start, wont catch. Put the new wires to the original rotation with 1 being at 10 oclock, and started right up and idle is smooth. Ultimately I did all of this because I suspected #1 wire was stretch too far and not making constant contact. maybe I was right? Anyhow now I want to figure out how to put the new wires into the correct positions. You can only turn the distrib 3/4 inch or so in either direction, so maybe that would get it to fire up if I changed the wires to a different start point??? I mean is it possible that the cam shaft is installed 180 out of phase? Is that why i had to have my wires 180 out of phase? TDC mark matches rotor pointing to 4 oclock. Long story, but at least I can get to work todayyyy. Is it possible I installed distrib 180 out? but then rotor would point to 10'oclock at TDC???? Calgone take me away

 

[RustyRatRod]

To move the wires on the cap, you will have to rotate the distributor shaft as well.

 

[Marcohotrod]

Have you ever tuned a slant? There's a limiter on how far you can rotate the distributor...

hey krazy-can U read? I said "rotate distrib. + sometimes the vacuum advance unit clearance puts a limit on doing this"

 

[gunbunny]

Replace the ballast. There is enough resistance to justify this. The coil within the ballast may have heated up broken and pulled away disallowing contact with the other end. It cooled, expanded and now you have contact again. I think it's going to let you down again, and it may not be in the driveway. The $6.00 for a new one is cheap insurance.
This is why I like the dual ballast set up, you lose one side, the other picks up the slack.
As for the tight wire, buy a longer wire. replace it, no sweat.

 

[gdizzle]

I am back to work everyone. We can close this thread. I was able to remove dizzy, rotate the shaft 180, reinstall wires in the correct location. I ordered a new Ballast, though the one in the pic above (which is the same one I ordered) is different than my current one. Mine has a metal bracket which mounts to firewall. I guess that's not needed anymore? Also I tested the coil, measured about 10,000. Interesting because I also bought a new coil (BWD) and measured it at only 8,500. ? weaker? So I think my coil is fine. I am now working on retiming, it is very far advanced now, so much so that I may need to back it off a tooth in order to get it back on the timing Tag. Now back to my dreaded Kickdown issues.... Thanks everyone. Go Cowboys!!!