DC K frame question

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Fast340cuda

Fast340cuda

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I just picked up what I believe is a big block DC K frame. Upon measuring the mount offset I’m getting 3/4” on the passenger side and roughly 7/8” on the driver side vs 13/16” and 1 3/16” from Jim Lusks posted dimensions for his modified small block version.

Thinking the passenger side will work as is but may need to cut the driver side mount off and slide it back.

Was hoping someone on here has an original DC k frame that they could measure and confirm what they have for an offset. Also would like to know if the dimensions are close to mine, were you able to mount the motor without much trouble?

Thanks!
 
Those are the same measurements that I got off of an original, but the drive train didn't fit properly so I made adjustments to what fits best.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Those are the same measurements that I got off of an original, but the drive train didn't fit properly so I made adjustments to what fits best.
Click to expand...

Thank you for confirming Jim! I’ll cut the driver side mount off and slide it back to match your dimensions.
 
I highly recommend putting it in the car with a dummy block and then hanging the headers before you go to the work of cutting off the brackets and moving them. If you want everything to fit nicely then you most likely need to do a complete mockup first and go from there.
 
AndyF said:
I highly recommend putting it in the car with a dummy block and then hanging the headers before you go to the work of cutting off the brackets and moving them. If you want everything to fit nicely then you most likely need to do a complete mockup first and go from there.
Click to expand...

That makes sense. There is a lot of variation from car to car so what works on one may not work on another.

I am going to try and install one of the new/smaller power steering boxes as well (will be using 2” TTI headers so things will be tight). I am also considering cutting the steering box mount off and sliding it over as far away from the motor as possible to try and get a little more clearance.
 
Fast340cuda said:
That makes sense. There is a lot of variation from car to car so what works on one may not work on another.

I am going to try and install one of the new/smaller power steering boxes as well (will be using 2” TTI headers so things will be tight). I am also considering cutting the steering box mount off and sliding it over as far away from the motor as possible to try and get a little more clearance.
Click to expand...

Uhh, yeah, good luck with all of that. You are wading into the deep end.
 
oldkimmer said:
When u move the box over u r changing every steering angle. That’s y no one really moves the box over. Kim
Click to expand...

I have done a little research and a several folks have moved the box without any issues with the steering angles or geometry.

I have also found that several folks have even installed the newer power steering box with TTI headers (did require a few small dings and these were on a B block, not RB).

I have put a few front ends together over the years and the factory tolerances are all over the place. At one point I purchased a factory big block A body K frame and compared it to the 3 small block K frames I currently have and it had the steering box mount shifted slightly to the left side of the car and seemed to be at a different angle (pics are posted on this site).

I like the idea of installing and mocking up the motor and headers before I touch the K frame and see where I end up. If I feel the power steering absolutely won’t work I can always reinstall my 20-1 ratio manual box.

My daily driver is a hellcat Charger so I have become spoiled with power steering and 700 horsepower. I would like to make my barracuda somewhat nicer to drive and a big block with power steering would be a step in the right direction IMO.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Those are the same measurements that I got off of an original, but the drive train didn't fit properly so I made adjustments to what fits best.
Click to expand...
When you made the drive train adjustments to fit properly, was this an auto or 4sp car? I am planing on going with 4sp and was wondering if the adjustments will throw off the z-bar angle for 4sp setup and possibly create a binding issue.
 
I was building a four speed car, but the discovery was made at a friend's shop with his automatic setup.
 
I made the DC K frame from a 74 Scamp spool type frame to Jim's measurements and everything dropped right in. I use the Schumacher tri-y headers with a power steering box with a 440. It all fit well. Plugs were not bad either with the 452 heads.
the mounts dropped right in and the 727 transmission mount bolted right up. The only place was tight was the blower motor and my aluminum valve covers. That can be fixed.

I am working on a 69 dart that i cant decide if i want another BB Dart or a SB...
I have good parts for either a 340-360-400-440. I have a set of 2" TTi BB headers and would love to see how your steering box works out with the BB. Are you using the Borgeson new power steering box? B motor or RB?
 
I'm using a factory power steering box with B-body HP manifolds. This is with a 440. We did the same thing with a 383 in 2006.
 
mopfried said:
I made the DC K frame from a 74 Scamp spool type frame to Jim's measurements and everything dropped right in. I use the Schumacher tri-y headers with a power steering box with a 440. It all fit well. Plugs were not bad either with the 452 heads.
the mounts dropped right in and the 727 transmission mount bolted right up. The only place was tight was the blower motor and my aluminum valve covers. That can be fixed.

I am working on a 69 dart that i cant decide if i want another BB Dart or a SB...
I have good parts for either a 340-360-400-440. I have a set of 2" TTi BB headers and would love to see how your steering box works out with the BB. Are you using the Borgeson new power steering box? B motor or RB?
Click to expand...

Great Info here. I was planning on going with the Borgeson new power steering box with a 383 motor.
 
Jim Lusk said:
I'm using a factory power steering box with B-body HP manifolds. This is with a 440. We did the same thing with a 383 in 2006.
Click to expand...

Also great info here. Some people have told me I will have more clearance with headers and such if I go with a 440 block instead of the 383. Any thoughts here?
 
musclecargeek said:
Also great info here. Some people have told me I will have more clearance with headers and such if I go with a 440 block instead of the 383. Any thoughts here?
Click to expand...

In some places, yes. Others, no. It's a crap shoot on what will fit better or not. The manifolds do fit better with a 383 on the passenger side. The driver side is better at the steering shaft with a 383, but the 440 gives more clearance to the power steering.
 
Fast340cuda said:
I just picked up what I believe is a big block DC K frame. Upon measuring the mount offset I’m getting 3/4” on the passenger side and roughly 7/8” on the driver side vs 13/16” and 1 3/16” from Jim Lusks posted dimensions for his modified small block version.

Thinking the passenger side will work as is but may need to cut the driver side mount off and slide it back.

Was hoping someone on here has an original DC k frame that they could measure and confirm what they have for an offset. Also would like to know if the dimensions are close to mine, were you able to mount the motor without much trouble?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I have a proparts k member that is in my dart and bought that in the late 80's and according to what Proparts claimed their K member they sold was supposed to be a an exact replica copy of the dc k member. Does yours have the spool motor mounts and a provision for a later style sway bar that goes thru the k member instead of underneath it? As far as cutting the mount off, on mine I had to cut a notch out of the motor mount saddle for the oil pump to clear on the 440 I installed . Not sure if that helps or if I have the same style you bought. Lmk either way good luck with the install, since I can't get an answer from schumacher about wheen their adapter motor mounts will be available if ever again
 
Fast340cuda said:
That makes sense. There is a lot of variation from car to car so what works on one may not work on another.

I am going to try and install one of the new/smaller power steering boxes as well (will be using 2” TTI headers so things will be tight). I am also considering cutting the steering box mount off and sliding it over as far away from the motor as possible to try and get a little more clearance.
Click to expand...

With my conversion from a LA 318 to the RB 440 I installed a fast ratio manual steering box along with a longer pitman arm and idler arm, so better then 20:1 ratio, but is effected with the smaller tuff wheel I am using. I also relocated the battery to trunk which freed up room in the engine compartment . The last thing I wasn't thrilled about doing but really had other choice available to me at the time was to run fender well headers. In the late 80's finding A body RB big Block exhaust manifolds was nearly impossible. A pair in bad shape for 1000 for a set for an A body mopar were what was possibly available if you very lucky. So at least the headers were new, available and could be purchased. Dart engine compartment was never roomy to begin with so these parts, uses and locations etc did give me back some space up front, and help with better weight distribution. on my still to do list for engine compartment only is to switch from the Large 4 core E body radiator with a belt driven DC clutch fan to an aluminum radiator with dual electric fans with shrouds,and to swap out the cast iron W.P housing for Aluminum with hi flow WP to save weight up front. Nowadays there are a lot of after market parts available and information that can make the transformation to a big block A body car fairly routine depending on how exotic you want to go with your car!!. All it takes is time, money, prior planning, and a place to perform the work is essential.
 
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