De-Pin a headlight switch connector and selecting new pins

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I would interested to see if the terminals in the 1st link would work. My understanding is they are designed for higher current
 
I BELIEVE that these ones are correct for the older cars. I don't remember seeing the other type used, at least in my 67, with that "fold over the end" lip style. Look at them carefully when they come out. The key is whether they have the "curled" edges along the two side edges

I had some of the "fold over tab" type and they would not go into my housings, bulkhead or other

 
I BELIEVE that these ones are correct for the older cars. I don't remember seeing the other type used, at least in my 67, with that "fold over the end" lip style. Look at them carefully when they come out. The key is whether they have the "curled" edges along the two side edges

I had some of the "fold over tab" type and they would not go into my housings, bulkhead or other


These are what I used from my ebay purchase order a few months back. I replaced the bulkhead due to some melting and replaced connectors that didn't look good. These ones matched what was in the car originally. This was a 1968 Barracuda.

s-l1600.webp
 
These are what I used from my ebay purchase order a few months back. I replaced the bulkhead due to some melting and replaced connectors that didn't look good. These ones matched what was in the car originally. This was a 1968 Barracuda.

s-l1600.webp
I don't know. Maybe Ma used a couple of different types of connector housings. Those females you pictured WILL NOT fit the ones in my 67. They MUST be the other type, "curled" along the side edges and with no end "fold over"
 
the end fold over type are for senders that use a nail head type stud like your oil or coolant temp sender


I'd be finding out where that red wire goes...
if it is the feed to the interior light, id re wire the interior light... if the wires on the back short to the roof the insulation on the whole run down the screen pillar back to the switch gets burnt and you end up melting the connector.

use the old wire to pull the new wire up through the screen pillar and across the roof.


if its to the headlights well there is potentially evidence of a case of the wrong wattage bulbs being used at some point in the past
 
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which ones? the males the females of the little tang bit that stick up

i can confirm that these UK sourced parts fit US sourced blade connectors
or lucas Lucar connectors as we used to call them years ago

Ahhhh i see what you did

not inches

6.3mm wide in a style with a crimp for 1-2.5 mm cross sectional area of the wirecore Plus the insulation

:)

not blade connectors in 6.3 inch sizes they would be overkill

OP is in a country that is metric....
i'm in a country that can't decide

Dave
 
Hardly anyone uses original wattage headlamps. Once 6014 lamps had become the new standard, 6012s became less common to a point they weren't manufactured by the 1980s. Besides bigger is always better.
tonguue-gif.1715262550
Your wiring and circuit breaker issues - not our problem.
What lamps got installed on export cars, IDK. You'ld have to look that up. But with 18 SAE wire from the dimmer switch to the lamps, unless the harness was different (such as with RHD cars), nominal 40/40 Watt lamps are were already close to the limit
Failure at the headlight switch B1 terminal is also common, and that's a 16 ga SAE wire. So its not just the wire size that causing resistance at the terminals.

As far as terminals, there's a bunch of threads on original and replacements.
 
which ones? the males the females of the little tang bit that stick up
I understand the need for such a long blade in some applications, but Wow I just have never seen anything like that.

1736980486469.png
 
More cool is real pint!

Those terminals look familiar. Look in the AMP or TE catalogs. 1/4" 'Push on" is what AMP calls the series IIRC.
 
those long male blades go in the modular plastic connectors
i guess the length is there due to dimension of modular plastic bit

like this

Terminals & Connectors > Multiple Connectors - 6.3mm Blade Multiple Connectors - Auto Electric Supplies Website

i.e you could replace your bulkhead connector with an easier to manage pair of these
if you fancied an A body with something similar at the bulkhead to Australian production

which uses 2 custom versions of this type of connector, at least from 1970 onwards they did... they also do not put the alternator wire through the bulkhead connector it goes direct to under the dash via a grommet...which saves a load of burning plastic....


one for lights and wipers that kinda thing
one for engine ignition instrumentation related

standard Australian set up is 2 of these with 6 or 8 connectors horizontal and 2 vertical at the sides which is why i say custom... seem to be chrysler australia related

you could probably use a combination to replace there is an 11 pin version that coupled with a lesser pin version would probably provide enough connectivity.
if you fill them with vaseline from day 1 pretty damn waterproof

the 4 way connector on the page is the exact one the australians used for the ignition key lock switch from about mid 73 onwards, just has an extra lock clip on it these days seems to work better than the bulllet connectors in a rubber d shaped thing they used previously, they go on fire when subjected to the damp environment in the UK.... as i have found :)

the best bit as they are rear loading is you can crimp it all up, connect it wire to wire to check... then when it all works load both sides into the plastic. simple in comparison to say an injector mini timer style connector or those horrible ECU 100+ pin things

8way .jpg
 
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Thanks to everyone who posted into this thread. It helped alot to understand things better. I have now made some decisions and have bought two "different" sets.

As @67Dart273 said before these Female Spade Terminal Set (5x) : 14-12 Gauge might fit, and yes they did. They are pretty tight on the male connector terminal but they fit.

As I had to buy a new light switch anyway I also ordered bulkead connector terminal connectors from the German Moparshop because I was curious if they fit and yes, they fit on the light switch connector aswell. Kabelstecker, männlich + weiblich, jeweils 8 für Bulkhead usw, 22,28

@ESP47 mentioned the terminals with the "lips" might be used for the bulkhead connectors Mopar Male Female 12 AWG Gauge Wire Wiring Harness Terminal Crimp Connectors NOS | eBay. The thing is the connectors on my bulkhead look different. They look like the ones I have on the light switch connector. So I recon my bulkhead connectors and light switch connectors are the same.


So in the end the connectors from hemiperformance and the bulkhead connectors from moparshop are almost exactely the same. But how I mentioned before, the connectors @ESP47 said they might be for the bulkhead connectors, look different to the connectors I have on my bulkhead. Maybe they are for older or newer cars.


The "golden" connectors are from hemiperformance, the others from moparshop.

IMG_20250118_103708168.jpgIMG_20250118_103730169.jpgIMG_20250118_103808519.jpgIMG_20250118_103854962.jpg
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui...t&disp=safe&realattid=19478ef66d0604edc814&zw
But in terms of quality I might use the plated (golden) terminals because the lips that keeps the terminal connectors in place tend to bend when removed from the connector .


IMG_20250118_113801344.jpg
 
As mentioned by 2 different members the connectors with the "lip" are NOT for the bulkhead connectors, they are used on oil sender type connectors.
Glad ya got some of the right terminals.
Pico mfg's them as well.
Good luck.
 
As mentioned by 2 different members the connectors with the "lip" are NOT for the bulkhead connectors, they are used on oil sender type connectors.
Glad ya got some of the right terminals.
Pico mfg's them as well.
Good luck.
Oh I might have misread the part with the bulkhead :thumbsup:
Thanks mate
 
All of these can be pushed on to a 1/4" male terminal.
The fit issue is with the plastic connector. If they don't fit properly in the connector housing the terminals will not be in full contact when assembled. Similarly if the barb does not catch properly they will back out and have only intermitant contact.
terminals can be brass, steel plated with tin (not used for wire terminals), tin plated brass, and silver plated brass. Selection seems to have been based on location, but our choices are more limited than Chryslers. More important is the type that fits the connector, and then correct size for the wire(s) crimp.
 
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