Dessicant driers for flawless paint. Best for the money

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Gordon Selbig

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Does a dessicant snake have beads that you can change? Would it be better to buy a metal canister? Thanks
 
I bought the metal tube one from Harbor Freight (not sure if they still sell it). When the desiccant beads finally gave up HF didn't have them. I found some at Amazon, but never ordered any. I don't paint much and found a few things that help. I added a second compressor tank 40' or so from the main compressor. My theory is that the air would be cooler at this point in the line and more water would fall out of the compressed air. That seems to be the case plus it's 26 more gallons of air after the 60 gallon main tank. When I paint I still run through the empty desiccant tube as a little more water will fall out naturally. I also drain water from everything before I paint. It all seems to help.
 
I have "heatless" air dryer in my garage. It uses 2 large dessicant collumbs and it produces completely dry air. We use them to supply dry air for air pollution analyzers (used at power plants paper Mills etc ). My company was throwing them away, BRAND NEW IN THE BOX! It's cheaper than keeping them on the shelf and having to pay taxes on them
 
I'm using the canister type desiccant dryer linked below - it is one of the cheaper ones I could find. It's working great so far, but granted, we don't have the highest humidity levels here in SoCal. I've been running it for about a week for general tool use and running my sandblasting cabinet, and the beads at the very bottom are just starting to turn a little purplish-pink (Mopar content: a little lighter than Plum Crazy but not all the way to Panther Pink). From what I have read, it is recommended to run a particle filter after a desiccant unit to catch any dust or debris that flies off the surface of the beads - so I have a cheapy 1/2" Harbor Freight filter plumbed right after it.

Desiccant unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR45HRK/?tag=joeychgo-20
Filter unit: 1/2 in. Standard Air Filter
 
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