Did I do this 8 3/4 housing/axels from moser right?

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1968notch

Too many projects, not enough time/$$$
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Hey geniuses (at a minimum most know more than me anyway),

I have a 1968 notchback barracuda with a 318 4bbl (TQ), eddy performer and a TCI 904 streetfighter trans. that is hanging under the car from a fresh PARTIAL install. The bad news is it still has the glass 7.25 rear (it's 3rd one since I've owned it).

I bought a bunch of parts from wildcat mopars in OR a VERY long time ago. He said they were C-body backing plates that they just cut off near the flanges and all the brake stuff and axles still bolted in. I also bought I THINK (75% certainty) is a e-body housing and a gutted 489 case. The only thing out of all that I'll be using is the backing plates and drums. I'll probably sell the housing.

I recently scored a 489 case fully assembled with the exact gears I want (3.23) and what the guy says is a richmond sure grip unit. Need help identifying it. He said he got it from summit 10 years ago or more. He stuck it in an old wagon for whatever reason and drove it around his property, never on the street. I asked him if if it had a crush sleeve or eliminator and how it looked on the marking compound after he put it together. He said he didn't use compound. I shook my head, handed him 325 bucks and walked away with the unit. Me and my father in law (fully trained deisel mech and has done front to back on cars too) did roll some very thin white tissue type paper (like you stuff in a gift bag) around the entire ring gear as it contacted the pinion and it looked REALLY good. I may have it double checked at a shop or get a can of stuff and with guidance here from you geniuses check it myself.

I'm getting freaking old now (63) and really didn't feel like messing with narrowing that E-body housing I had, so I called Moser. 1700 bucks later (shipping and all), the new housing and axles are in my garage in Oregon. I bought big bolt pattern. I've placed a screen shot of the build request in here. I need to know if I did this right. He said there was only like a 1/4 inch diff in clearance with those c-body plates and I'm not sure what dimension really but it had to do with tire clearance. The car still has skinny tires and will remain so for a good long time. I will be running mis-matched tires and 2 spares till I re-do the front end (which is loaded with PST polygraphite stuff). Don't really care about any of that right now. I'll include a couple shots of the center section and the build paperwork from moser. The axles fit the sure grip BTW when I tested them the other day. The housing also has fill and drain plugs installed as well so another good reason to go with a fresh Moser build. What I need to know is if I've done this correctly so far:

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First off I must say that your post contains way to much irrelevant information and is hard to read. If what your asking is - “will what I ordered from moser fit”. I believe The answer is yes.

All the 10" big bolt pattern rear backing plates will work for your application, so if the axles (I don’t know why they referenced C-body?? Or maybe they are just referring that the backing plates came off a C body??) you ordered are large bolt pattern and for 10" brakes AND are the length require you’ll be okay. Stock A body 8.75" axles are 27 11/16" long so if the ones you ordered are 28” long you will be okay because they are also specifying green bearings. If the 489 Center section you are using has the ‘button’ in the middle of it that the stock axle shafts butt up against for the purpose of adjusting the axle end play with traditional style tapered bearings should be removed. I think the ‘extra’ 1/4" difference he’s referring to is when going from small bolt pattern brakes to big bolt pattern brakes the backing plates are different offsets or that the 28" axles are about 1/4" longer than stock.
 
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Unit is a lunch box locker installed in the open carrier center section.. no sure grip there.

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looks like the correct 1. a body backing plates are different from b, c, e, volare, aspen, trucks, etc. the depth on the 10 x 1 3/4 is different. i think moser is the same as dr diff when making axles and their axle won't fit with 10 x 1 3/4 backing plates. all the mentioned above will work with 10 x 2 1/2 or 11 x 2 1/2 shoes. beware of 11 x 2 inch shoes. a lot of c bodies came with 11 x 2 brakes.
 
looks like the correct 1. a body backing plates are different from b, c, e, volare, aspen, trucks, etc. the depth on the 10 x 1 3/4 is different. i think moser is the same as dr diff when making axles and their axle won't fit with 10 x 1 3/4 backing plates. all the mentioned above will work with 10 x 2 1/2 or 11 x 2 1/2 shoes. beware of 11 x 2 inch shoes. a lot of c bodies came with 11 x 2 brakes.
Thank you.
 

First off I must say that your post contains way to much irrelevant information and is hard to read. If what your asking is - “will what I ordered from moser fit”. I believe The answer is yes.

All the 10" big bolt pattern rear backing plates will work for your application, so if the axles (I don’t know why they referenced C-body?? Or maybe they are just referring that the backing plates came off a C body??) you ordered are large bolt pattern and for 10" brakes AND are the length require you’ll be okay. Stock A body 8.75" axles are 27 11/16" long so if the ones you ordered are 28” long you will be okay because they are also specifying green bearings. If the 489 Center section you are using has the ‘button’ in the middle of it that the stock axle shafts butt up against for the purpose of adjusting the axle end play with traditional style tapered bearings should be removed. I think the ‘extra’ 1/4" difference he’s referring to is when going from small bolt pattern brakes to big bolt pattern brakes the backing plates are different offsets or that the 28" axles are about 1/4" longer than stock.
I cut out some words. Most people I see asking stuff never give enough info and it's a game of 20 questions from people trying to help. I wanted to give a feel for exactly how it was going to be used and the current power levels that would be applied. Again, Thanks for the help!
 
Too late now but;
I wouldda just put a posi in the 7.25/ so-called glass rear, and run it; you can't hardly kill them with a 318 auto,, even with a 2800 stall.. It's the peg-legging one-wheel peels that get them, and/or the shock of popping the clutch with a manual trans and fat-tires..
 
Too late now but;
I wouldda just put a posi in the 7.25/ so-called glass rear, and run it; you can't hardly kill them with a 318 auto,, even with a 2800 stall.. It's the peg-legging one-wheel peels that get them, and/or the shock of popping the clutch with a manual trans and fat-tires..
Well, The first one broke when going around curved corner (not even a hard right turn) at 25 mph with my foot off the gas. The second one broke after backing out of the driveway, coming to a full stop to switch to drive stepping on the gas lightly since the wheels were still turned and the spiders shattered again.

Pretty much done with 7.25's. The car never did burnouts because it can't even break a skinny tire loose unless it was going around a corner and I very seldom did that. In other words, none were abused, they just broke. Maybe others have had better luck with them? The 2.73's? In there were just not gonna be what I wanted really anyway. I will have a spare to drop at a swap meet sometime. I'll make sure I tell the buyer about the howl in the one that's in there now.

Thanks AJ. I've learned a lot reading all your stuff, especially on dynamic compression ratios.
 
Thanks for the kind words

I put a hi-compression 340 in front of a 7.25 once. Ran for two years and the 904trans quit first lol.
I'm coming 72 in June; got my license in summer of 69.
In 56 years of driving, mostly 7.25 equipped 318 cars, sometimes 4bbl cars, I have never broken one of them. Actually, the only rear ends I've ever broken were 8.75s, lol

As they say, I guess I was just lucky.
 
Too late now but;
I wouldda just put a posi in the 7.25/ so-called glass rear, and run it; you can't hardly kill them with a 318 auto,, even with a 2800 stall.. It's the peg-legging one-wheel peels that get them, and/or the shock of popping the clutch with a manual trans and fat-tires..
Post a link to a 7.25 sure grip unit. That's actually for sale.
 
Thanks for the kind words

I put a hi-compression 340 in front of a 7.25 once. Ran for two years and the 904trans quit first lol.
I'm coming 72 in June; got my license in summer of 69.
In 56 years of driving, mostly 7.25 equipped 318 cars, sometimes 4bbl cars, I have never broken one of them. Actually, the only rear ends I've ever broken were 8.75s, lol

As they say, I guess I was just lucky.
You were obviously down on power.
 
7.25's are good for two things. Weight in the back of the truck when going to the scrap metal yard, or giving a non busted one to a kid who needs it to get his car back on the road. I wonder how our friend Slant 6 Matt is doing?
 
7.25's are good for two things. Weight in the back of the truck when going to the scrap metal yard, or giving a non busted one to a kid who needs it to get his car back on the road. I wonder how our friend Slant 6 Matt is doing?
I don't know. I tried several variations of his screen name and none came up. I have him on Facebook, so I sent a message to see how they're doin.
 
.....but my question is, and no offense, why are you trying to make a bunch of stray stuff work for an A body, when you could just use A body stuff? I'm lost on that.
 
.....but my question is, and no offense, why are you trying to make a bunch of stray stuff work for an A body, when you could just use A body stuff? I'm lost on that.
Oh, Me? Why was I trying to piece together an 8.75 rear for an a-body from various other parts? Because at my finance level that was all I could afford to do. Where I live they were basically made out of unobtaium. Wildcat mopars had one but it was over a grand in 2006 dollars and that was just for the bare housing. I think I remember walking out of there with all those other parts for under 250.

I had to tap my 401k to buy those moser parts last month.

I read a lot of your stuff too BTW. That's why I started my post with "Hey geniuses..." FABO is the best source for Mopar info on the planet that I've found and it's exactly because of the heavy hitters in here that I recommend it to anyone with a mopar question.
 
Oh, Me? Why was I trying to piece together an 8.75 rear for an a-body from various other parts? Because at my finance level that was all I could afford to do. Where I live they were basically made out of unobtaium. Wildcat mopars had one but it was over a grand in 2006 dollars and that was just for the bare housing. I think I remember walking out of there with all those other parts for under 250.

I had to tap my 401k to buy those moser parts last month.

I read a lot of your stuff too BTW. That's why I started my post with "Hey geniuses..." FABO is the best source for Mopar info on the planet that I've found and it's exactly because of the heavy hitters in here that I recommend it to anyone with a mopar question.
I can certainly relate to finances. I thought that might be it. People are crazy stupid these days about A body rears.....but you know.....people are payin it so I reckon that makes um worth it. They ain't growin on trees, that's for sure.
 
I have future 340 plans that would snap that 7.25 like a twig, so the rear end had to come first. I've wanted a 340 ever since I saw an original 6-pack car at my dads house once in the mid 70's.
 
I broke several with a 273/4 4 speed. Never went back. First one I put in was a old b body with the tapered axles. Carried 2 spares for a while. lol
 
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