difference between narrow and wide band A/F Gauges

[texas360]

i was looking at adding and A/F gauge to my car for carb tuning and better drivability, but i see n narrow and wideband gauges... what is the difference and does it matter which one because its almost a $100 difference in gauges

 

[67Dart273]

A narrow band is mostly worthless. Forget about them. Get yourself a WB and don't look back.

 

[dano]

Wide bands have a wider range of accurate measurement. For tuning you want a wide band.

 

[33IMP]

Narrow band is WORTHLESS! An oem fuel injection deal, where a couple points either way from stoicometric (spelling)is out of range. In other words, if you are more than just a little lean or rich, the narrow band just goes "oops, sorry, no reading."

 

[texas360]

Wide bands a like $200. Anyone make a good one that isn’t gonna break the wallet?

 

[Syleng1]

If $200 breaks the bank then maybe you don’t need one. Cheap is not good

 

[67Dart273]

.........and they haven't gone up much. I bought one several years ago it was near 200 THEN

Side note: Read up if you buy one. There are some things that can "kill" the sensor and they ain't cheap. If you aren't going to "need" it at all times (after tuning) you can remove the sensor and plug the bung. If you are "cheap like me" you can use a Ford 18mm spark plug. You can ALSO order 18mm nuts a hell of a lot cheaper than most bungs cost. I've forgotten the thread pitch, "been awhile"

 

[texas360]

If $200 breaks the bank then maybe you don’t need one. Cheap is not good

I’m just saying most gauges are like $50-$100 for autometer, but all A/F gauges I have found are like $250

 

[Syleng1]

I’m just saying most gauges are like $50-$100 for autometer, but all A/F gauges I have found are like $250

Just be clear- I did not mean you are cheap…. I meant a cheap A/F gauge being cheap is not good. Sorry if I confused anyone. Lol!

 

[flingdingo]

The "narrowband" is for OEM applications, and is designed to read from about 13.5 to 15.5 to 1 accurately and reliably. The "wideband" will read from 11.5 or so accurately.

With most any carbureted setup, you are way on the rich side of ideal, and all those hydrocarbons will kill an O2 sensor. (Notice I didn't say reliably when talking about the wideband above)

Buy the wide band, but don't use it until you are reasonably sure of your tune... and then take it out until you need to do more tuning.

And syleng is right, even most of the $250 ones are "cheap." Do your research before buying.

 

[DrCharles]

The "narrowband" is for OEM applications, and is designed to read from about 13.5 to 15.5 to 1 accurately and reliably. The "wideband" will read from 11.5 or so accurately.

I disagree with this. The narrowband sensor basically can tell you if you're richer or leaner than 14.7. And that's it. The voltage switches so rapidly around the 14.7 point that they're inaccurate more than a few tenths either side.

My Autometer 3579 is not the greatest design (it won't work unless you start the car first, then switch on power to the gauge and sensor) but it is essential for carb tuning. You can also see the change between ethanol-free gas and the typical pump E10 or E15.

I leave it in. About 600 street/cruise miles so far (and quite a few hours idling) and it's still working the same... but my carb is reasonably dialed in (12.5-13 under power, 15 cruise, 13.5-14 idle) and it doesn't have fouling problems.

 

[fishmens67]

Wide bands a like $200. Anyone make a good one that isn’t gonna break the wallet?

It will be the best 200 bucks you ever spent, it will make tuning the carburetor fun and easy.
The fun makes it easy for me. Makes me want to play more and get it perfect.
Get a two sensor unit. just a few more bucks.

 

[pishta]

check out 14point7.com

Products

open source available, that means CHEAP but not cheap

I'd almost say wideband to tune and narrow band to run (if needed). The EFI will dictate which one to run. MSx can be programmed for either. IIRC the 14X1.25 is the thread pitch for a bung/spark plug non-fouler.