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First workup to panty dripper and after that panty dropper is a piece of cake.
Ive seen estimates from 11-20 percent horsepower loss by driveline drag and friction coefficients
If you want 400-450 at the wheels either stroke the motor you have or do a 451. you have near 400 at the crank which is pretty good for a 383
A small point, if I may. Stock hi compression rr 383 was rated 335 gross hp. That means net of about 250-275. Call it 280. Torqueflite drive train, real world, subtracts about 20% to the wheels, so 228rwhp. So, I have you at 100hp over stock. Not too bad.
Could use a lot more camshaft Performer RPM cam (even the flat tappet) is far from a stock cam:Lift: .480''/.495''Duration @ .050: 238°/246°Advertised Duration: 300°/308°Stock 383 roadrunner 4bbl was .450/.468 lift with 268/284 duration The duration at .050 lift is 214/225But still pretty mild by todays standard
That’s pretty much in line with what edelbrock advertised as results for their top end kit. Their cams are mild and there is a lot left on the table with their heads out of the box.
Depends, auto or manual trans. What rear axle 8 3/4 or 9 3/4, lightweight internal trans parts, driveshaft, steel wheels, torque converter etc. etc.
ps most man trans about 10%
Agree with RRR. [ Twice in one day! ]. Edel cams suck. Ever seen a performance build or article that uses an Edel cam?
Damned amazing ain't it? lol
Yea I am sorry, I do not have all the specs written down as the previous owner past away shortly after i purchased the vehicle. I can do a compression check on a few of the cylinders to give an idea of what the compression ratio is but aside from that not sure without taking the cam out and heads off know what exactly i have. I am also not against nitrous, but i just fear myself having to fill the bottle often as i tend to get the itch while driving to just give it a go when i make my way to large open roads lol..... I'm essentially a 16 year old trapped inside a 38 year old's body.
Any cam you would recommend with hydraulic lifters and 1.5 rollers up top? I know, without knowing the rest its hard to really make a reccomendation but to just get me in the ballpark to focus my research and limited time would be appreciated. I love this forum, you guys are beyond helpful
Some of us can tell a whole lot about things in what seems like an a**-backwards way.... Please give some specs about the entire car and drivetrain, and try to go to the local drag strip and get a few good time slips, then repost some results here. HTH, Lefty71
Call Oregon cam grinding (in Washington) and ask for Ken.. He'll Probably ask a lot of the same questions... Likely he can regrind your cam... I'm might go see him tomorrow for the same thing.. Nitrous is not just throw a bottle in the trunk...done correctly it's $1500-2k...and without the piston rings gapped for it it's not recommend over a 150-200 shot.. Most "complete" nitrous kits are about 50-60% of what it takes to do it correctly.. Food for thought...
Car is a 69 notch originally a /6 that was a hot mess when i got it. I have sorted the suspension for the most part, the wiring, etc. It has a alum a833 4 speed with 3.91 8 3/4 rearend. 15X7 inch steel wheels, and 2.5 inch exhaust from the headers to the turn downs right before the rearend. I am considering pulling the engine this winter and tearing it down anyway and might just go full stroker but i want to make sure i spend the money wisely. That is pretty interesting about the cam regrind, and I was also told by a coworker to perhaps move to solid lifters vs the hydraulic... Again, i appreciate the help
All aluminum 4 speed??..
More food for thought. If you're talking about tearing this entire engine back down to the block again and having it reboard and buying a stroker kit for it and a new cam and new lifters???.. Again food for thought in my mind I'm thinking for a few hundred dollars to get a 440 block and start this process for pretty much the same amount of money and end up with a 505... Leaving your 383 100% intact and either reusable or resellable to recoup... Also usable until the 505 is done... Then it's just a matter of switching out some exterior components, alternator... etc...
also with RRR, cam and i'm betting big rear tires. excellent numbers but not fun to drive.
i thought the 440 would be an issue with things like the heater blower motor, and other items. Plus, i can not find a 440 block for less than a grand. I was also looking at 400 bottom ends but i figure since the car is going to sit over the winter and the trans is being torn down anyway.... yea lots of things to consider.... i do know one of my salesmen who builds race hemis is willing to essentially build the engine for almost nothing to help me out makes this decision easier.
I would think the 440 would be pretty much in the same configuration as a 383 but I'm not positive on that... I'm not a big fan of an aluminum case on a 4-speed with the kind of horsepower and torque your talking about..
Also I hope you're rebuilding the 4-speed yourself it's quite easy with not many if any special tools needed more than a pair of snap ring pliers...
Get rid of that turd of a cam and go solid.
For this turns into a cam fight... Keep in mind the best of both worlds are hard to get... When you're talking about the heater blower motor it sounds like you like things to be cozy... Getting a overlay radical Cam that will bring out the absolute full potential of the engine in the quarter mile will not be what you consider cozy going light to light and driving around town.. ask me how I know...
How does anyone know what camshaft he has? He doesn't even know what camshaft he has.
A 400 would be a better choice for your Abody, and piston selection will be better (for the near future) for the stroker as well.