Not open to your BS. I can handle ignorance, not ignorance and arrogance. You will never know what I know. Keep talking, maybe someone will believe you. Not me.
disc brake wheel stud swedge tool
- Thread starter Dart fan
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Actually they might be swedged.
Oh ya, then the heck with your superior intelligence showing through.
Have you ever removed studs with a BFH or under the ram of a hydraulic press?
Try it, works quite well.
Then where's your swedge tool in removing studs?
Wan't to know what i did before the Air Force.
Went to a trade school back in Connecticut studying for an apprenticeship to be a Machinist, and worked in industrial machine shops, and tool and dye shops, before saying my i do's with the USAF.
So don't say i won't know what you know.
Still haven't answered the question in how everyone out there in the real world, is removing studs from rotors and hubs, without any problems.
Care to inform us all?
So then, what is your picture supposed to represent?
Still haven't gotten around to answer the question, in how all the rest of us have gotten a hub and rotor separated from one another, without any difficulties.
Still haven't gotten around to answer the question, in how all the rest of us have gotten a hub and rotor separated from one another, without any difficulties.
They don't looked swedged to me as I mentioned earlier in the thread. The correct term is "swaged", but "swedged" seems to have become the acceptable term. I've searched for swedged and/or swaged disc brake removal on a Mopar & can't seem to find any info...hmmm ??
The pictures you've posted in this thread appear to be aftermarket and/or replacement studs & not original style wheel studs. My hub and rotor assembly pics are original to my car. I have no intention of taking them apart at this time to prove or disprove your point.
I can't find any evidence of Mopar Disc Brakes using a swedged stud. They were used on drums only as far as I know....
Food for thought & I know never say never on a Mopar, but
Then you will be the one who loses here. None of the Kelsey Hays rotors were swedged. Not a one. I am pretty sure the later rotors for the single piston system weren't swedged either. I have never seen a rotor that was.
EXACTLY as they ALL came! Pressed fit.
Could the misinterpretation be in the terms swedged vs splined? Splines are straight and swedge are "helical" so to speak?
The Swedge is ripped from the stud, that was why it was so hard to press it from hub. Some were swedged from the factory. Swedge is the term from the cutting tool. This conversation is over.
Well then, that's good.
You never did explain to all of us why your way, is the only way, and why all the rest of us out there in repair land hasn't had any difficulties in doing this type of rotor and hub, work.
Catch ya later.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Non swaged
Did you measure them? They look swedged to me.
If you look at my pictures with the replacement Doorman studs, you can see the factory chamfer cut into hub. If you look at inertia's pictures you can see a rolled lip where the stud meets the hub. The spines are the interference fit and keep the stud from turning when you tighten the lug nuts.
They don't looked swedged to me as I mentioned earlier in the thread. The correct term is "swaged", but "swedged" seems to have become the acceptable term. I've searched for swedged and/or swaged disc brake removal on a Mopar & can't seem to find any info...hmmm ??
The pictures you've posted in this thread appear to be aftermarket and/or replacement studs & not original style wheel studs. My hub and rotor assembly pics are original to my car. I have no intention of taking them apart at this time to prove or disprove your point.
I can't find any evidence of Mopar Disc Brakes using a swedged stud. They were used on drums only as far as I know....
Food for thought & I know never say never on a Mopar, but
My pictures are from one of 4 of my last swedged stud hubs I had the studs removed from the rear after talking with my machinist about the safest way to remove them. I had at least 4 hub and disc assemblies that were swedged and since we drilled them from the rear it was easy to see the swedge. I don't blame you for not wanting to take them apart. I only did mine since I was moving, and wanted my machine shop to do the job. As for the FSM, There is a procedure to replace the studs on BUDD and Bendix disc brakes, but none for drums or Kelsey-Hays discs...
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One last time. Only originals were swedged. Once they were removed, no one swedged them back on. Like the drums, it is a lot easier to cut the swedge and press the studs out. Which means there is less chance of damage and stress on the hub. You can accomplish anything probably at least 6 different ways. Never would I bang a swedged stud out of a K-H hub, why? You guys wouldn't even admit or notice there were swedged studs on K-H discs.
Then one last time from me, as i get to rebut your claim, like doing a political debate on the television.
I you ever bring this posting back from the dead, in another 4 years time, in the future, and i see it, and still alive, i will call you out in regards to your "theory" about these hub and rotor assemblies.
And tell me what books your looking at for the BUDD and BENDIX disc brakes in removal of busted, stripped, wheel studs, on those disc brakes.
I have all the books too, and would like to read other than the sentence or two in removing, and or, replacing studs.
And still to anyone reading this tread, go ahead and use a BFH, or hydraulic press, and you ain't gonna do anything detrimental to the damm hub.
Then if this guys theory and urban myth proved true, i must have removed numerous "factory" hub and rotor assemblies in all the decades that i have been doing this without ANY kind of problems.
Carry on ya'll.
I you ever bring this posting back from the dead, in another 4 years time, in the future, and i see it, and still alive, i will call you out in regards to your "theory" about these hub and rotor assemblies.
And tell me what books your looking at for the BUDD and BENDIX disc brakes in removal of busted, stripped, wheel studs, on those disc brakes.
I have all the books too, and would like to read other than the sentence or two in removing, and or, replacing studs.
And still to anyone reading this tread, go ahead and use a BFH, or hydraulic press, and you ain't gonna do anything detrimental to the damm hub.
Then if this guys theory and urban myth proved true, i must have removed numerous "factory" hub and rotor assemblies in all the decades that i have been doing this without ANY kind of problems.
Carry on ya'll.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Please no fuss "old thread". I remembered it, so adding to it. BTW, I'm the gomer mentioned who said you can remove the hub by throwing the drum down on concrete or asphalt until it falls out. I did that once on my 1969 Dart w/ 9" drums, though might have had replacement drums. To score spare hubs for my C-body at the junkyard, I beat on the studs with a hammer, in a pattern, until they pushed thru the drum. Still seemed stuck well in the hub, though would change them anyway. Don't recall if that drum had OE swedges. Why a spare hub? I did when the outer bearing in my Dart spun in the hub to ruin it, on both sides about a few years apart, the first just 200 miles from where a shop installed new wheel bearings on a x-country trip in 1986. Took a long time to find a spare since most in the junkyards had 10" drums. They used tiny wheel bearings (SET1 & SET3) in the 9" drum hubs, so need a spare or change to 10" drums before a Wilwood disk upgrade (others?, Scarebird shuttered), or go with 1973+ spindles and rotors.
Currently changing drums (fronts 11"D x 3"W, rears 2.5" W) on my 1965 C-body with 1/2" wheel studs, which I recall is also for 1973+ A-body. The studs are swedged, so must be the factory drum. I've had a set of new drums on the shelf since ~1998, so figured to swap and put the OE on the next scrap run. My drums were botched by an auto shop in Lancaster, CA ~1992 when they cut too deep far in (~1/2" wide about 30 mil too deep), then must have noticed and reset the lathe. I didn't notice until home 60 miles away and should have raised hell for that deceit (hauled them to Court), but busy and couldn't suffer xx trips to Lancaster for justice. The new shoes wore to match, but always concerned the drum might crack where too-thin.
A 5/8"D hole saw "should work" (BinderPlanet link above), but more for wood and smallest on-hand is 7/8"D. Instead, I ordered an "annular cutter" (mostly for pricey Magnetic Drills), think beefy hole saw. I have a milling machine and 3/4" collet so "should fit". My studs protrude 1" from the drum surface, which required buying a cutter w/ 2" depth of cut. More choices in 1" depth and allows purchasing a barely-affordable set (~$80), but 2" depth makes a set too pricey (>$200). I ordered a single ACTool 13/16" HSS cutter for $26 (link). No specs on ID, as needed to clear the stud. A youtuber with video about them answered the ID is 1/4" less than OD for all in his HSS set. That about matches what I calculated by scaling a photo. Those with carbide teeth might have less ID. Carbide is good for cutting hardened steels, but the teeth can break off, and HSS can be re-sharpened, so many prefer it. Mine should have 0.5625" ID to easily clear the bolt. If lucky, a 3/4" cutter could just clear and perhaps be perfect, but if unlucky might booger the threads. Let us know if you try one. By above data, an 11/16" OD cutter would similarly be "perfect" for 1972- A-body 7/16" studs. Less risky would be a 3/4" OD cutter and might suffice for both stud sizes. If I don't edit, assume my choice worked.
A final choice is the purpose-made Goodson ST-500 Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool for only $109. They no longer list the one for 7/16" studs. Note they just say for drum brakes, which might add fuel to the argument above whether K-H rotors were swaged to their studs. I have no idea (nor care since have no KH cars). The photos suggest if they were it used a different circular-bulge swedge, not the pinched sides on Mopars and other drum cars. Actually, in the BinderPlanet photos, I don't see swedged studs, but not picking a fight there. Those guys drive big trucks ("rigs" to you little A-body guys).
(Amazon product ASIN B07527MV7ZBrake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool
Currently changing drums (fronts 11"D x 3"W, rears 2.5" W) on my 1965 C-body with 1/2" wheel studs, which I recall is also for 1973+ A-body. The studs are swedged, so must be the factory drum. I've had a set of new drums on the shelf since ~1998, so figured to swap and put the OE on the next scrap run. My drums were botched by an auto shop in Lancaster, CA ~1992 when they cut too deep far in (~1/2" wide about 30 mil too deep), then must have noticed and reset the lathe. I didn't notice until home 60 miles away and should have raised hell for that deceit (hauled them to Court), but busy and couldn't suffer xx trips to Lancaster for justice. The new shoes wore to match, but always concerned the drum might crack where too-thin.
A 5/8"D hole saw "should work" (BinderPlanet link above), but more for wood and smallest on-hand is 7/8"D. Instead, I ordered an "annular cutter" (mostly for pricey Magnetic Drills), think beefy hole saw. I have a milling machine and 3/4" collet so "should fit". My studs protrude 1" from the drum surface, which required buying a cutter w/ 2" depth of cut. More choices in 1" depth and allows purchasing a barely-affordable set (~$80), but 2" depth makes a set too pricey (>$200). I ordered a single ACTool 13/16" HSS cutter for $26 (link). No specs on ID, as needed to clear the stud. A youtuber with video about them answered the ID is 1/4" less than OD for all in his HSS set. That about matches what I calculated by scaling a photo. Those with carbide teeth might have less ID. Carbide is good for cutting hardened steels, but the teeth can break off, and HSS can be re-sharpened, so many prefer it. Mine should have 0.5625" ID to easily clear the bolt. If lucky, a 3/4" cutter could just clear and perhaps be perfect, but if unlucky might booger the threads. Let us know if you try one. By above data, an 11/16" OD cutter would similarly be "perfect" for 1972- A-body 7/16" studs. Less risky would be a 3/4" OD cutter and might suffice for both stud sizes. If I don't edit, assume my choice worked.
A final choice is the purpose-made Goodson ST-500 Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool for only $109. They no longer list the one for 7/16" studs. Note they just say for drum brakes, which might add fuel to the argument above whether K-H rotors were swaged to their studs. I have no idea (nor care since have no KH cars). The photos suggest if they were it used a different circular-bulge swedge, not the pinched sides on Mopars and other drum cars. Actually, in the BinderPlanet photos, I don't see swedged studs, but not picking a fight there. Those guys drive big trucks ("rigs" to you little A-body guys).
(Amazon product ASIN B07527MV7ZBrake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Updating (strangely can't edit post 43). I got a response from the Chinese supplier of the ACTOOL 13/16" Annular Cutter. They gave a spec for the ID as 12.7 mm (recall), which would be perfect (1/2"D), but as received ID measured ~475 mil so wouldn't fit over the 1/2" wheel studs which measure ~485 mil. I had to buy a 1/2" carbide ball end mill w/ 2" cutting length ($15 ebay) to enlarge the hole. I first tried a 1/2" carbide end mill but only 1" cutting length and couldn't push deeper without jamming. A regular HSS end mill couldn't cut the HSS Annular Cutter. After enlarging the hole 1.5" deep, I had plenty of depth to remove the swedges. The annular cutter fit perfectly in a 3/4" R8 collet on my milling machine. Few drill presses can chuck a 3/4" cutter, though I have seen such chucks as an option on very large drill presses. Without that, most people would be better buying the Goodson ST-500 (3/8" shaft?) or a small hole saw. Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool
I don't see anywhere to buy a 7/16" Swedge Cutter today. The 13/16" cutter above will fit over the stud without having to enlarge its center hole. If excessive gap, you might slip tubing between them or wrap sheetmetal, which also serves as a thread protector. I'll probably do that if I need remove a swedge on my A-bodies. I simply placed the drum loose on the milling machine table and let it slide freely to center the stud on the annular cutter. Both should be parallel to each other if the milling machine is true, so just needs x-y alignment.
I had to hammer on both the hub end and each stud, in turn, using aluminum to not mar the steel. I tried my old "drop on concrete" trick, but didn't work, probably because I didn't throw it down, not wanting to mess up my sidewalk. Two studs pushed out of the hub a bit, but didn't no damage to the flutes, so I just tapped them back flush. If you ever spin a stud, as shops have done to me (didn't know about RH threads and hid their mess-up), you can make a few weld tacks to keep the stud from spinning in the hub. Also works if your upper control arm ball joint hole threads get boogered.
I don't see anywhere to buy a 7/16" Swedge Cutter today. The 13/16" cutter above will fit over the stud without having to enlarge its center hole. If excessive gap, you might slip tubing between them or wrap sheetmetal, which also serves as a thread protector. I'll probably do that if I need remove a swedge on my A-bodies. I simply placed the drum loose on the milling machine table and let it slide freely to center the stud on the annular cutter. Both should be parallel to each other if the milling machine is true, so just needs x-y alignment.
I had to hammer on both the hub end and each stud, in turn, using aluminum to not mar the steel. I tried my old "drop on concrete" trick, but didn't work, probably because I didn't throw it down, not wanting to mess up my sidewalk. Two studs pushed out of the hub a bit, but didn't no damage to the flutes, so I just tapped them back flush. If you ever spin a stud, as shops have done to me (didn't know about RH threads and hid their mess-up), you can make a few weld tacks to keep the stud from spinning in the hub. Also works if your upper control arm ball joint hole threads get boogered.
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