Distributor Identification Question

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Grumpyoldman

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Can anyone identify a distributor by a number stamped on the side? Distributor is a single points unit that was on a 1967 318.
Only number I can find is: 2975334 1 8 stamped in the body.
Also there is the number 36 stamped in a couple of places. There is no manufacturer name or logo. If there was supposed to be a tag or sticker, it is long gone.

Anyone have any idea what I have?
 
Forgot to add: one wire connection from points to coil and it is a vacuum advance unit. Vacuum advance has a tag ut it is pretty badly beat up and so far I have not been able to decipher the numbers.
 
This guy can help you. He'll probably on in the morning.
@halifaxhops

Someone else might have an answer for you sooner.
 
Chrysler built will be AL, and have a webbed 'trunk' while a Prestolite will be cast iron and have a smooth trunk. as for part numbers, ? Probably subtle differences in hop out of the mechanical advance and max advance.
 
Think the number is 2875334 1968 383. The larger stamped 34 I have no idea what they mean have seen a lot with those large stamps. Have been trying to find out what they mean and no luck so far. 1 8 is the date code (1) first month of (8) 1968
 
Chrysler built will be AL, and have a webbed 'trunk' while a Prestolite will be cast iron and have a smooth trunk. as for part numbers, ? Probably subtle differences in hop out of the mechanical advance and max advance.
Apparently it is a Chrysler built unit since it has a webbed "trunk".
 
Where do I find points, condenser, rotor, cap, etc. for this? Will also need a new vacuum advance since this one leaks and does not respond to a vacuum.
 
Think the number is 2875334 1968 383. The larger stamped 34 I have no idea what they mean have seen a lot with those large stamps. Have been trying to find out what they mean and no luck so far. 1 8 is the date code (1) first month of (8) 1968
383? hmm I took it off a 318 but did not really pay any attention if it was actually engaged with the intermediate shaft. Could this distributor actually work on a 318 if it was intended for a 383?
 
Where do I find points, condenser, rotor, cap, etc. for this? Will also need a new vacuum advance since this one leaks and does not respond to a vacuum.
@halifaxhops can help you with all of that. He is our distributor guru. Send it to him and he can also set it up on the distributor machine and custom advance it for you. (plug for you Hoppy)
 
I have everything if you want prob the vac advance also. Any chance you can take a pic of it from the top of the distributor to the advance plate. If your parts stor has them check the condenser hot and cold and the spring pressure on the points. most of the new stuff is crap.
 
383? hmm I took it off a 318 but did not really pay any attention if it was actually engaged with the intermediate shaft. Could this distributor actually work on a 318 if it was intended for a 383?
Nope the shaft is two long. The only interchange kind of is a RB dist in a B engine with a adapter plate that lifts it up a bit.n I don't like them, takes longer for the oil to climb the shaft to the bushings.
 
Nope the shaft is two long. The only interchange kind of is a RB dist in a B engine with a adapter plate that lifts it up a bit.n I don't like them, takes longer for the oil to climb the shaft to the bushings.
Thank you for the information and the offer of a rebuild. I have not decided just yet what I am going to do for the ignition on this one. It's a street hot rod type that will never see the track. I like points because I understand them and can deal with them on the side of the road. I know nothing of electronics ignition except they do the same job as the points which is be a switch. How they do it and how to fix them is a deep mystery.

I am leaning toward a dual point distributor, just have to find one.

If the new points and condensers are not reliable, where does one find good reliable parts? I would purchase a bunch of each if I knew they were good.
 
If your distributor number is 2875334 then it is from a 1968 273 V-8. It is a Chrysler made distributor. .017 gap [28-32 dwell]. Any used 318 or 273 vacuum advance unit should work. Polish your 8 sided dist. cam with 600 or 1000 grit paper. Use a little dist. cam lube on the cam. About 3 drops of light oil into the felt pad under the rotor. Free up the weights under the points plate and lube. When working properly, the rotor should turn about 1/2" in one direction and then spring back to where it was. This is done with the dist. shaft held in a vice.

I would not recommend a dual point dist. They require special tiny wrenches and lots of patience. And would be very very difficult to do on the side of the road. Back in the day, I'd check/adjust the dwell every 5000 miles, and change point and condenser every 10,000 miles. Echlin or Chrysler was my choice. My local hardware store used to stock Chrysler, Delco, and Motorcraft tune up kits [points, condenser, and rotor for under $10]. Those days are over, the kits are gone, and the store is gone.
 
If your distributor number is 2875334 then it is from a 1968 273 V-8. It is a Chrysler made distributor. .017 gap [28-32 dwell]. Any used 318 or 273 vacuum advance unit should work. Polish your 8 sided dist. cam with 600 or 1000 grit paper. Use a little dist. cam lube on the cam. About 3 drops of light oil into the felt pad under the rotor. Free up the weights under the points plate and lube. When working properly, the rotor should turn about 1/2" in one direction and then spring back to where it was. This is done with the dist. shaft held in a vice.
Dam I think you are right I went off of memory, have to look it up to be sure.
 
Used a magnifying glass and the number is 2875334.

So, just need clarification that it is indeed a 273 unit which will work on a 318.
 
If your distributor number is 2875334 then it is from a 1968 273 V-8. It is a Chrysler made distributor. .017 gap [28-32 dwell]. Any used 318 or 273 vacuum advance unit should work. Polish your 8 sided dist. cam with 600 or 1000 grit paper. Use a little dist. cam lube on the cam. About 3 drops of light oil into the felt pad under the rotor. Free up the weights under the points plate and lube. When working properly, the rotor should turn about 1/2" in one direction and then spring back to where it was. This is done with the dist. shaft held in a vice.

I would not recommend a dual point dist. They require special tiny wrenches and lots of patience. And would be very very difficult to do on the side of the road. Back in the day, I'd check/adjust the dwell every 5000 miles, and change point and condenser every 10,000 miles. Echlin or Chrysler was my choice. My local hardware store used to stock Chrysler, Delco, and Motorcraft tune up kits [points, condenser, and rotor for under $10]. Those days are over, the kits are gone, and the store is gone.

I would agree with your advice about a single point being easier and simpler, except for one thing; I would prefer a dual point because that was what I had in 1965. A single point would serve my needs just fine and I would probably not really notice any performance benefit from a dual point. But my heart is kind of set on a dual point setup. This project also has a total flip front end, so access to the distributor is much easier than having to crawl over a fender or inside the engine compartment.
Little tiny wrenches? I have small hands (and probably a small brain). Patience? I'm 70 years old so patience is a given. I am a bit concerned about tuneup parts, but I'll figure something out.
 
2875334 is for a 1968 273-2 barrel A and B Body. I also like the dual point distributors and ran them all the time. Went to Direct Connection conversion kit and Chrome Box in the Mid 70's. It is still in the car and runs great.
 
2875334 is for a 1968 273-2 barrel A and B Body. I also like the dual point distributors and ran them all the time. Went to Direct Connection conversion kit and Chrome Box in the Mid 70's. It is still in the car and runs great.
Thank You. I appreciate the time you took to check and reply. When I tore down the motor, the distributor hold down was missing so I just pulled it and tossed it in the ignition box. I should have payed more attention, but I was more concerned with the condition of the internals. Poor excuse, but it's mine and I'm sticking to it.
 
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