DIY floor pans.
- Thread starter dartfreak75
- Start date
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If water comes in and it never drys it will wick through the jute padding and spread all over. It typically doesnt make it to the rear pans but can if your leak(s) are bad enough or the car is sitting for a long time.
I have been chasing a ghost leak on my 73 dart sport for a year. I have found several leaks but its still getting in somewhere. I probably wont find the real leak until I get this stripped and on the rotiserie. I ordered the one piece floor pan for it. Both of my fronts are totally shot.
I have been chasing a ghost leak on my 73 dart sport for a year. I have found several leaks but its still getting in somewhere. I probably wont find the real leak until I get this stripped and on the rotiserie. I ordered the one piece floor pan for it. Both of my fronts are totally shot.
I have used the small floor pan patch panels before. In most cases thats all you need. In your case it would be an economical way to do the bulk of the repair and it will leave you less to fabricate.
I can look and see if I saved the hump part of the 71 dart I parted last year.
I can look and see if I saved the hump part of the 71 dart I parted last year.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
It has been sitting for a very long time. It sat for a long time when I bought it in 2001 I think it set from 1993 till 2001 then I drove it till 2004 and it's been parked since. The front passenger side floor and the front frame rail was rotten when I bought it in 2001 I replaced the floor and fixed the frame back then I never took all that jute padding outbid the back until the other day I had no idea it was rotten like that back there it could have been like that back then and I never knew it.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I would appreciate that buddy.
My dart sport floors are rotten and I have about 1500 daily driver miles on it. I just slapped some duct tape on it until I get around to restoring it. I just ordered ALL the sheetmetal to finish the car the right way.
What part of VA you in?
What part of VA you in?
I wrote myself a note to take a look tomorrow. I dont reall the condition of it. If it was usable I saved it. I dont throw anything away.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Southwest va
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
What ever you decide to do good luck with your floor repair.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I dont either lol thank you very much I appreciate it.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Thank you buddy I appreciate your help.
Worked in my 74 Scamp. Should work fine. By the time your $130 into ill-fitting front and rear patch panels you get this for $200 and you don't have to re fab the seat mount. It's one way you could go.
Yup.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
So in your opinion I should just buy the panels and not try to fab them?
Naw. To each his own. You know what I did. At my age it was right for me. I know you like a challenge. It was more than I wanted to tackle.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Here is my biggest concerns with the panels one I know its gonna be a challenge to get it out correctly to get a new one in right. For the floorpan and the rear foot pan its 302 dollars that I really dont have so its gonna have to wait it will put me that much farther behind lol. And lastly what if the half pan dont go far enough up on the hump to weld to like blu said? That's gonna be alot of money then I still gonna have to fab something anyway I'm doing a side job right now for a guy he is paying me 250 bucks that money was supposed to go to the machinist but technically I could use it for the floor pans but then I'm gonna have to wait longer on my engine.
this is never gonna end is it? Haha it seems like everything i do on this car ends up being a speed bump
jonn6464
1970 Duster
Well, like I said, some heads were gonna explode...
Looks like the MOPAR Police are on the scene, Officer 72bluNblu reporting for duty!
First off, "Anyone that repairs metal with fiberglass should have their car confiscated" is just a super D-bag statement. Do you have any idea that there are people out there that can't throw $100 bills around to fix their cars? I bet if you took a poll to see how many FABO members have made a fiberglass repair back in the day, you'd get a whole bunch of guys saying "Yep, I sure did".
Second, "It will speed up the decay of the remaining metal" is just a fear statement. Perhaps you missed the part where I laid out some advice for the OP to put money away every month until he has enough for a replacement pan in a year? Are you really proposing that adding fiberglass will cause such catastrophic decay to the surrounding floor pan, in 12 months, that the car could not be saved? Carbon steel corrosion occurs when the relative humidity of the air is 70% to 80%. These conditions are met or exceeded in Virginia (which is where the OP seems to reside) for 3 out of 12 months in a year. So, you believe that in 1 year the amount of decay would somehow be multiplied exponentially with the addition of fiberglass? I would welcome any evidence, supported by chemical molecular data, that this would be the outcome.
Third, "The fact that you go out of your way to say it's a temporary fix and not to take passengers indicates you already know you're giving terrible advice that will compromise the integrity and safety of the car", would suggest that I am purposely trying to put the OP in harm's way by offering my advice. I would never, ever, make any recommendation that would put another person in danger. Life is precious and fleeting. And, are you seriously taking the stance that some fiberglass in a 3'x3' space would have a disastrous effect on the structural integrity of a 3500lb automobile? Not taking passengers was a bit of a joke that maybe someone might put their foot through the floor. My bad for not spelling that out.
Fourth, "If you find yourself seriously considering repairing metal with fiberglass, it means you're in over your head and do not have the skills to make the needed repairs. Walk away and take it to someone that can do it right before you screw it up worse", that can go 2 ways. If directed to the OP, way to shame someone who might not have the finances to take their car to an $80-$100/hour shop. If directed to me, I'm certainly not going to elaborate on my skill set to prove my "worthiness" to the likes of you. My build is proof enough.
Fifth, "In a very short period of time you'll have to do it all again, and if you didn't have the money to fix it right the first time how are you going to have the money to do it twice", where do I even start with this? Who are you? Honestly, who are you to dictate to the OP that if he "doesn't have the money" to do it YOUR way the first time, then don't bother???? If you are such a high roller-big shot-restoration God then put your money where your mouth is. YOU buy the floor pan and have it shipped to the OP's address. Hell, I'll split it with you. OP says the new pan is $500. You do $250, I'll do $250. That way you can sleep easy at night knowing that there is a car driving around out there that hasn't been hacked up by some amateur, and will still "maintain the structural capabilities of the unibody chassis" as you seem to be so worried about.
The OP made no reference to having any welding equipment, or abilities, in his post. He clearly stated that he needed a solution other than "just buy them". So, I offered up a TEMPORARY solution, followed up by a permanent repair when financially allowable. It's up to the OP to take whatever advice he feels is best and discard the rest.
I am in full agreement that the BEST possible solution is to replace the floor pan with new metal.
Fiberglass is an acceptable material to use on properly prepared steel. Properly prepared is the key word. Fiberglass is polyester resin, same thing used in body filler and gorilla hair. Its not good to use in areas that flex because it can crack or chip. Seam sealer would be a better choice in those areas. Get rid of all the rust you can and rough it up with some 40 grit to give the resin something to bite to.
You have to do the best job you can do that your budget allows. A full panel will give you the cleanest results with less labor in the end. However, you can do an acceptable job patching if you take your time and blend everything in. It all boils down to time vs money. Good luck with your repair. I will take a look in my parts and see if I have any patch panels I can donate. I dont think I do but I will check my stash and see. Most of the cars I have parted were rusted beyond recognition so not many body panels on hand.
You have to do the best job you can do that your budget allows. A full panel will give you the cleanest results with less labor in the end. However, you can do an acceptable job patching if you take your time and blend everything in. It all boils down to time vs money. Good luck with your repair. I will take a look in my parts and see if I have any patch panels I can donate. I dont think I do but I will check my stash and see. Most of the cars I have parted were rusted beyond recognition so not many body panels on hand.
j par
Well-hung Member
LOL using fiberglass is utterly ridiculous...
your welding and cutting skills will be fine for the just putting some metal in there..
With the $250 I say give 200 to the machine shop and like someone said buy a hood out of the Pick-n-Pull for $50 or less and use the material to make floor pans. Make it strong and cover it with carpet... My-2
Fiberglass LOL....
...
your welding and cutting skills will be fine for the just putting some metal in there..
With the $250 I say give 200 to the machine shop and like someone said buy a hood out of the Pick-n-Pull for $50 or less and use the material to make floor pans. Make it strong and cover it with carpet... My-2
Fiberglass LOL....
...
Here is what I have. Its yours if you want it but you gotta pick it up.
If you think I'm the "mopar police" or some "high rolling restoration God" you've obviously never seen my cars, because they make most purists cry. Every single one of your rebuttals is 100% bullshit- yes, will make it worse, and yes, it is UNSAFE. You don't know me, you don't know my background or my finances. My advice is based on being in the same exact position as the OP in the past. And it's based on dealing with repairs made by mouth-breathing dipshits that had no business even trying and who did more damage than was originally there. And finally, its based on having a damn degree in engineering, so you better believe I know about structural integrity and how fiberglass to replace a structural floor member is just stupid. My Challenger looks like a patchwork quilt of repair panels, many of which I made myself and others where I bought only partial sections. Having done all of that, if I had to do it again, I would save longer and buy full panels for about 90% of those repairs.
Fiberglass is a bullshit "repair". Period. It has nothing to do with money, because you can make a perfectly sound temporary repair with 18g sheet metal and sheet metal screws. Throw your sheet metal screws in every 3-4" around the edge, do the same anywhere you pass over a subframe or stiffener, and you'll have a repair that is similar in strength to a properly spot welded replacement pan. Seam seal it on the edges and it will last for years. You don't need a welder for that, and it will probably cost less than a fiberglass repair. Not only that, if you do it right it will keep water out and prevent further rust in the meantime.
Throwing money at cheap, incorrect repairs will always bite you. Every time. I've done it and I regret every time I did. You waste money in the short term to spend more money in the long term because you're screwing it up. If money is tight, be smart with it. Don't waste money on temporary repairs that will make the situation worse. That doesn't mean you can't do anything, it means don't be stupid. I don't care how many people have used fiberglass in the past to repair a floor board, it was stupid every single time it was done on anything other than a fiberglass body. If everyone jumped off a bridge does that make it smart? Sure doesn't.
18g metal, sheet metal screws every 3-4" around the edge and anywhere there's a structural member. You can do all the forming with a 2x4 and a dead blow hammer and make a repair that will last for years with a little seam sealer. It won't be pretty, but it will be 100% functional. No welder, no fancy tools, very little required skill and just as cheap. And when you've saved up you can just unscrew the sheet metal screws and install the proper panel. Easy.
You're talking about bodywork bud. Floorpans on a unibody are structural. Fiberglass is not acceptable. Ever.
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dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Hmm I have a scrap hood from an 01 ram. That may be an optionLOL using fiberglass is utterly ridiculous...
your welding and cutting skills will be fine for the just putting some metal in there..
With the $250 I say give 200 to the machine shop and like someone said buy a hood out of the Pick-n-Pull for $50 or less and use the material to make floor pans. Make it strong and cover it with carpet... My-2
Fiberglass LOL....
j par
Well-hung Member
I actually enjoy pounding and shaping metal.. If you think about it the whole entire car is overlapped everywhere and spot-welded. Nothing is cut out perfect and welded in... when I did the floorboards on my son's Power Wagon that's how I did it. I cut out a perfect patch and welded it perfectly all the way around. In the end it was a massive waste of time and I don't think it was any stronger.. this last truck I did the floorboards I put the patches in and drew a line around where they go in. Then I came back to in and cut out so I had a 2in overlap everywhere and spot-welded every inch or so. Of course one here and then one over there not doing it all in a row and warping the metal. Then I just use some car type sealer like the factory does and it was just as nice once it was painted over as the ones I did for my son's Power Wagon...
j par
Well-hung Member
This was my son's Power Wagon where I'd butt welded.. it was my first time and I thought I was doing it right but what I was doing was like the kind of work you would do on the outside of a car... Kinda..
^^^here you can see where I laid the patches in and drew a line around the edge of the patch and then came in from them and cut it out a couple inches short of where the patch reaches. you can't see the line because that's where I went ahead and ground off the paint for a good weld....
These were way faster as I just tacked them in nice and tightly and use my flap wheel to smooth them off and shield around the edges with a little goop and a shot of paint and bazinga!..
These were the patches that were $24 each and about $24 for shipping for both of them....
jonn6464
1970 Duster
Ok donkey, this is the last amount of energy I'm going to waste on conversing with you.
So, my rebuttals are 100% bullshit? I think anyone, really looking at them objectively, would accept that my responses were cognizant, informed, and reasonable. But, I get that you are probably used to most people in your life just accepting your vitriol without debate. Simply because they find it easier to acquiesce and move on, rather than squander their life in a constant pettifog with you.
Alas, that ain't me... but, I will say, that the repair scenario you laid out regarding the 18g & sheet metal screws is a good one. It's doable for a guy on a budget, and who maybe doesn't have any welding equipment. If you would have simply stated that as an alternative to fiberglass, originally, I would have had no problem with it. Just differing opinions, nothing more. I wish you would have posted that, instead of making the OP (who clearly stated his financial limits) look like he shouldn't even own his car if he can't do it your way. But, you don't seem to have the ability to reply with any dignity or decorum. I've noticed many of your posts, to other members, usually have a righteous and pretentious tone. Like yours is the ONLY opinion that could possibly be worth considering. But, I guess we should all count ourselves lucky to have your infinite wisdom to draw from.
So, you're an engineer. Guess what numbnuts, so am I. I can only assume you are in Civil/Structural or Mechanical. In all your bridge and road building courses, you guys never learned that there are MANY ways to solve the same problem. It's gotta be done the one same way, every time, or it's unsafe, right? Please elaborate on how some fiberglass in a floor pan makes a car not roadworthy. In one floor pan. We're talking about 5% of the overall structural integrity of the vehicle. That is hardly catastrophic failure territory. Once again, I'm not saying fiberglass is a correct, long term fix, because it's not. I'm just wondering if you can explain why it's sooooooo completely dangerous and civically irresponsible. Convince me and then, together, we can educate all of the "mouth-breathing dipshits that had no business even trying" how to repair their cars the way you've deemed acceptable.
You are correct... I don't know you and your history. Thank the Good Lord above for small miracles.
Oh, and I love how you claim to not be the "mopar police" and then you proceed to respond to MoparMike1974 with "Fiberglass is not acceptable. Ever." Do you even hear yourself?
You give Cali a bad name. Luckily, I know a bunch of CA car guys and they are all beauties, so I won't let one clown taint my opinion.
And, hey, if you any issues with what I'm saying... give you balls a tug and bring your happy *** down to Texas. I'm sure we can hash it out, with a robust discussion.
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