DIY floor pans.

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This was my son's Power Wagon where I'd butt welded.. it was my first time and I thought I was doing it right but what I was doing was like the kind of work you would do on the outside of a car... Kinda..
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^^^here you can see where I laid the patches in and drew a line around the edge of the patch and then came in from them and cut it out a couple inches short of where the patch reaches. you can't see the line because that's where I went ahead and ground off the paint for a good weld....
View attachment 1715504980
These were way faster as I just tacked them in nice and tightly and use my flap wheel to smooth them off and shield around the edges with a little goop and a shot of paint and bazinga!..
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These were the patches that were $24 each and about $24 for shipping for both of them....

I forgot to mention this was all done with my $89 Harbor Freight flux wire welder and my $14 Harbor Freight four and a half inch cut off wheel with grinder and flap disc..
With this same equipment I built so many things I can't even count.... Most notable is the sled deck to put on the back of my truck to carry my snowmobiles...
 
View attachment 1715504969 View attachment 1715504970 View attachment 1715504971
This was my son's Power Wagon where I'd butt welded.. it was my first time and I thought I was doing it right but what I was doing was like the kind of work you would do on the outside of a car... Kinda..
View attachment 1715504972 View attachment 1715504978
^^^here you can see where I laid the patches in and drew a line around the edge of the patch and then came in from them and cut it out a couple inches short of where the patch reaches. you can't see the line because that's where I went ahead and ground off the paint for a good weld....
View attachment 1715504980
These were way faster as I just tacked them in nice and tightly and use my flap wheel to smooth them off and shield around the edges with a little goop and a shot of paint and bazinga!..
View attachment 1715504981
These were the patches that were $24 each and about $24 for shipping for both of them....
Those look really good. Nice job!!
Another question in the area that goes across the frame section would it be best to drill holes in the floor pan all the way across and weld it from the top or go under the car and weld it from the bottom? Or both?
 
I forgot to mention this was all done with my $89 Harbor Freight flux wire welder and my $14 Harbor Freight four and a half inch cut off wheel with grinder and flap disc..
With this same equipment I built so many things I can't even count.... Most notable is the sled deck to put on the back of my truck to carry my snowmobiles...
Same equipment I have!!
 
Ok donkey, this is the last amount of energy I'm going to waste on conversing with you.

So, my rebuttals are 100% bullshit? I think anyone, really looking at them objectively, would accept that my responses were cognizant, informed, and reasonable. But, I get that you are probably used to most people in your life just accepting your vitriol without debate. Simply because they find it easier to acquiesce and move on, rather than squander their life in a constant pettifog with you.

Alas, that ain't me... but, I will say, that the repair scenario you laid out regarding the 18g & sheet metal screws is a good one. It's doable for a guy on a budget, and who maybe doesn't have any welding equipment. If you would have simply stated that as an alternative to fiberglass, originally, I would have had no problem with it. Just differing opinions, nothing more. I wish you would have posted that, instead of making the OP (who clearly stated his financial limits) look like he shouldn't even own his car if he can't do it your way. But, you don't seem to have the ability to reply with any dignity or decorum. I've noticed many of your posts, to other members, usually have a righteous and pretentious tone. Like yours is the ONLY opinion that could possibly be worth considering. But, I guess we should all count ourselves lucky to have your infinite wisdom to draw from.

So, you're an engineer. Guess what numbnuts, so am I. I can only assume you are in Civil/Structural or Mechanical. In all your bridge and road building courses, you guys never learned that there are MANY ways to solve the same problem. It's gotta be done the one same way, every time, or it's unsafe, right? Please elaborate on how some fiberglass in a floor pan makes a car not roadworthy. In one floor pan. We're talking about 5% of the overall structural integrity of the vehicle. That is hardly catastrophic failure territory. Once again, I'm not saying fiberglass is a correct, long term fix, because it's not. I'm just wondering if you can explain why it's sooooooo completely dangerous and civically irresponsible. Convince me and then, together, we can educate all of the "mouth-breathing dipshits that had no business even trying" how to repair their cars the way you've deemed acceptable.

You are correct... I don't know you and your history. Thank the Good Lord above for small miracles.

Oh, and I love how you claim to not be the "mopar police" and then you proceed to respond to MoparMike1974 with "Fiberglass is not acceptable. Ever." Do you even hear yourself?

You give Cali a bad name. Luckily, I know a bunch of CA car guys and they are all beauties, so I won't let one clown taint my opinion.

And, hey, if you any issues with what I'm saying... give you balls a tug and bring your happy *** down to Texas. I'm sure we can hash it out, with a robust discussion.
:lol::rofl: I really like you! What type of engineering do you do? I have always wanted to go into that field iv always been an outside the box thinker I come up with some pretty inventive ideas some of them work some dont. Lol
 
Those look really good. Nice job!!
Another question in the area that goes across the frame section would it be best to drill holes in the floor pan all the way across and weld it from the top or go under the car and weld it from the bottom? Or both?
Just welded on top don't make life difficult LOL I still got big fish plates welded in my duster from when I had my roll bar.. carpet covers all that stuff..
 
Just welded on top don't make life difficult LOL I still got big fish plates welded in my duster from when I had my roll bar.. carpet covers all that stuff..
On the unibody that crossmember under the front pan has to be welded to the pan tho right?
 
Probably both the trucks that I did were on a frame...
I'm back and forth on what I want to do with it I may just buy the 60 dollar pan and try to fab around it I'm thinking if I can fab some 18g from the center of the hump down to the floor line then that will give me a double thick area to weld the pan to. The rear area is flat so I'm not concerned with that my biggest concern is the rocker area and the spot where the rear seat mount is. That is extremely rusty and not flat at all its gonna be hard to "copy" that area to have something to weld to.
 
I'm back and forth on what I want to do with it I may just buy the 60 dollar pan and try to fab around it I'm thinking if I can fab some 18g from the center of the hump down to the floor line then that will give me a double thick area to weld the pan to. The rear area is flat so I'm not concerned with that my biggest concern is the rocker area and the spot where the rear seat mount is. That is extremely rusty and not flat at all its gonna be hard to "copy" that area to have something to weld to.
Sleep on it, you'll think of something...
 
Sleep on it, you'll think of something...
Yea I have alot of other stuff to do so I'm gonna put it on the list lol. I wanted to to get some color sprayed this week but the weather isnt cooperating. Today was cold the day before was windy as hell. The day before that rained I'm not getting any help from mother nature lol
 
Ok donkey, this is the last amount of energy I'm going to waste on conversing with you.

So, my rebuttals are 100% bullshit? I think anyone, really looking at them objectively, would accept that my responses were cognizant, informed, and reasonable. But, I get that you are probably used to most people in your life just accepting your vitriol without debate. Simply because they find it easier to acquiesce and move on, rather than squander their life in a constant pettifog with you.

Alas, that ain't me... but, I will say, that the repair scenario you laid out regarding the 18g & sheet metal screws is a good one. It's doable for a guy on a budget, and who maybe doesn't have any welding equipment. If you would have simply stated that as an alternative to fiberglass, originally, I would have had no problem with it. Just differing opinions, nothing more. I wish you would have posted that, instead of making the OP (who clearly stated his financial limits) look like he shouldn't even own his car if he can't do it your way. But, you don't seem to have the ability to reply with any dignity or decorum. I've noticed many of your posts, to other members, usually have a righteous and pretentious tone. Like yours is the ONLY opinion that could possibly be worth considering. But, I guess we should all count ourselves lucky to have your infinite wisdom to draw from.

So, you're an engineer. Guess what numbnuts, so am I. I can only assume you are in Civil/Structural or Mechanical. In all your bridge and road building courses, you guys never learned that there are MANY ways to solve the same problem. It's gotta be done the one same way, every time, or it's unsafe, right? Please elaborate on how some fiberglass in a floor pan makes a car not roadworthy. In one floor pan. We're talking about 5% of the overall structural integrity of the vehicle. That is hardly catastrophic failure territory. Once again, I'm not saying fiberglass is a correct, long term fix, because it's not. I'm just wondering if you can explain why it's sooooooo completely dangerous and civically irresponsible. Convince me and then, together, we can educate all of the "mouth-breathing dipshits that had no business even trying" how to repair their cars the way you've deemed acceptable.

You are correct... I don't know you and your history. Thank the Good Lord above for small miracles.

Oh, and I love how you claim to not be the "mopar police" and then you proceed to respond to MoparMike1974 with "Fiberglass is not acceptable. Ever." Do you even hear yourself?

You give Cali a bad name. Luckily, I know a bunch of CA car guys and they are all beauties, so I won't let one clown taint my opinion.

And, hey, if you any issues with what I'm saying... give you balls a tug and bring your happy *** down to Texas. I'm sure we can hash it out, with a robust discussion.

Yes, your rebuttals are 100% bullshit. They're not informed or reasonable. You started with your answer and you're just making excuses trying to justify a terrible argument. Fiberglass is not a suitable repair for a structural sheet metal floorpan, there is no reasonable justification. There are cheap and easy options that work, fiberglass is not one of them. It's not "mopar police", it's auto 101.

My "alternative" with 18g and sheet metal screws is a good one. It's an actual solution with sound science behind it, not an "alternative" to a BS fiberglass "repair". It won't be pretty, but it will be 100% functional if done correctly. Fiberglassing a floorboard will not. That is not a "difference of opinion", if you think fiberglass is a viable solution then you have no business carrying out the repair. I don't care who you are or what your education is. Fiberglassing a floorboard is what flippers do to make something "look right" before they screw some poor bastard over that hasn't seen that trick before. It isn't structural, it isn't safe, and it will absolutely make things worse than they already are. I have seen the results of fiberglassing floor pans, it's not a viable solution.

The floor panels on these cars make up far more than 5% of the overall structural integrity. Hell, without subframe connectors the floor and rockers are all that hold the front and rear halves of the car together if we're talking about a convertible. Let's see your finite element model. Because I'm calling BS on your 5%. Take the floor out of your car and jack up the front end and let me know if the doors still open. You're just making it up as you go along. You gave terrible advice, and now you're bending over backward rather than admit you were wrong.

My degree is in Aerospace Engineering. I never took "roadbuilding" classes, and my focus was structural analysis. Not bridges, not roads, aircraft and aerospace structures.

Maybe I've offended your delicate sensibilities. But you know what? I started in a shop working in auto restoration almost 30 years ago. I've seen what happens when guys that have no clue what they're doing try to fix stuff they have neither the skills nor ability to fix. Maybe some of those guys had good intentions, but I've been the guy that had to clean up those mistakes on more than one occasion. So when I say that fiberglass is bullshit, and that the best way to go is a full panel replacement, it's because I've fixed the mess when morons fiberglassed floor pans, whether they did it with good intentions or not. I've made my own patches and stitched floors back together one piece of 18g sheet at a time. And after doing all of that, my recommendation is that if you're faced with a repair like the OP has the best course of action is to save up for the full panel, because in the long run not only is it easier, but it's CHEAPER too. And I know that because I've done it the other way.

You shouldn't need engineering classes to recognize that slapping some fiberglass down on a rusty floor panel isn't a real solution. It's not even a "temporary" solution, it's no solution at all.

I'm back and forth on what I want to do with it I may just buy the 60 dollar pan and try to fab around it I'm thinking if I can fab some 18g from the center of the hump down to the floor line then that will give me a double thick area to weld the pan to. The rear area is flat so I'm not concerned with that my biggest concern is the rocker area and the spot where the rear seat mount is. That is extremely rusty and not flat at all its gonna be hard to "copy" that area to have something to weld to.

This is the section that you're worried about, the rear part of the rear footwells and the transition to the rear seat area. It is a different section than the rest of the floor pan.
AMD-410-1067-R_xl.jpg

1974 DODGE DART Auto Metal Direct Floor Pan Footwells 410-1067-R

This is the other section that you'd really benefit from. Even using this pan I think you'll still need to make some 18g panels between it and the sections of your tunnel that you'll be able to weld to, but that would still be far easier than trying to fab some of the sections replicated here
AMD-405-1067-R_xl.jpg


1974 DODGE DART Auto Metal Direct Floor Pans 405-1067-R

I know it's a tough pill to swallow, but slowing down a bit and saving up for the panels is the better option compared to trying to make your own panels. If I had really considered the time and materials it would take me to do all the repair sections on my Challenger I'd have just waited and bought the entire floor, rather than patching and piece-mealing my way through. And it would have cost me an entire floor pan, an entire trunk pan, and half the damn cowl. Instead I made my own panels and cut down partial replacements. I spent less in panels, but with my time and the amount of welding I did, throwing in consumables like welding wire, gas and everything else I used to get it done I didn't come out ahead. I'd have been better off saving up for a couple months and buying the panels I needed.
 
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Yes, your rebuttals are 100% bullshit. They're not informed or reasonable. You started with your answer and you're just making excuses trying to justify a terrible argument. Fiberglass is not a suitable repair for a structural sheet metal floorpan, there is no reasonable justification. There are cheap and easy options that work, fiberglass is not one of them. It's not "mopar police", it's auto 101.

My "alternative" with 18g and sheet metal screws is a good one. It's an actual solution with sound science behind it, not an "alternative" to a BS fiberglass "repair". It won't be pretty, but it will be 100% functional if done correctly. Fiberglassing a floorboard will not. That is not a "difference of opinion", if you think fiberglass is a viable solution then you have no business carrying out the repair. I don't care who you are or what your education is. Fiberglassing a floorboard is what flippers do to make something "look right" before they screw some poor bastard over that hasn't seen that trick before. It isn't structural, it isn't safe, and it will absolutely make things worse than they already are. I have seen the results of fiberglassing floor pans, it's not a viable solution.

The floor panels on these cars make up far more than 5% of the overall structural integrity. Hell, without subframe connectors the floor and rockers are all that hold the front and rear halves of the car together if we're talking about a convertible. Let's see your finite element model. Because I'm calling BS on your 5%. Take the floor out of your car and jack up the front end and let me know if the doors still open. You're just making it up as you go along. You gave terrible advice, and now you're bending over backward rather than admit you were wrong.

My degree is in Aerospace Engineering. I never took "roadbuilding" classes, and my focus was structural analysis. Not bridges, not roads, aircraft and aerospace structures.

Maybe I've offended your delicate sensibilities. But you know what? I started in a shop working in auto restoration almost 30 years ago. I've seen what happens when guys that have no clue what they're doing try to fix stuff they have neither the skills nor ability to fix. Maybe some of those guys had good intentions, but I've been the guy that had to clean up those mistakes on more than one occasion. So when I say that fiberglass is bullshit, and that the best way to go is a full panel replacement, it's because I've fixed the mess when morons fiberglassed floor pans, whether they did it with good intentions or not. I've made my own patches and stitched floors back together one piece of 18g sheet at a time. And after doing all of that, my recommendation is that if you're faced with a repair like the OP has the best course of action is to save up for the full panel, because in the long run not only is it easier, but it's CHEAPER too. And I know that because I've done it the other way.

You shouldn't need engineering classes to recognize that slapping some fiberglass down on a rusty floor panel isn't a real solution. It's not even a "temporary" solution, it's no solution at all.



This is the section that you're worried about, the rear part of the rear footwells and the transition to the rear seat area. It is a different section than the rest of the floor pan.
View attachment 1715505077
1974 DODGE DART Auto Metal Direct Floor Pan Footwells 410-1067-R

This is the other section that you'd really benefit from. Even using this pan I think you'll still need to make some 18g panels between it and the sections of your tunnel that you'll be able to weld to, but that would still be far easier than trying to fab some of the sections replicated here
View attachment 1715505079

1974 DODGE DART Auto Metal Direct Floor Pans 405-1067-R

I know it's a tough pill to swallow, but slowing down a bit and saving up for the panels is the better option compared to trying to make your own panels. If I had really considered the time and materials it would take me to do all the repair sections on my Challenger I'd have just waited and bought the entire floor, rather than patching and piece-mealing my way through. And it would have cost me an entire floor pan, an entire trunk pan, and half the damn cowl. Instead I made my own panels and cut down partial replacements. I spent less in panels, but with my time and the amount of welding I did, throwing in consumables like welding wire, gas and everything else I used to get it done I didn't come out ahead. I'd have been better off saving up for a couple months and buying the panels I needed.
Yea those are the two I need I put them in the cart at amd its 302 with shipping I just gotta think it over and decided what to do. My biggest concern with the half pan is that it wont go high enough on the hump where the seat belt is. That whole area is rusted pretty bad. If it dont then I'm in the same predicament with 302 dollar parts lol. The whole floor is out of the question its upward of 800 with shipping.
 
This is the area I am concerned with the AMD half floor pans not covering the red is the rust line so I need to remove at least a couple inches above that the yellow is where I need to cut to be in good metal. Will the half pans go that high?
@j par if I spend 300 on floor pans that magnum 360 I have is starting to sound tempting :rofl::poke:

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To each his own. Here in manitoba, all repairs in floor and rocker area now need to be welded in,with same gauge or thicker metal.
If i take a car for a safety inspection,and they find rust holes, the repairs done need to be inspected and signed off by a body shop.
The insurance company are starting to get anal about proper repairs.

i will admit in the past i patched floors by whatever means necessary,with what tools and materials i had on hand. But i never used plywood!
However i have seen it used.
Over 30 years i have advanced in skill and tools,and i still have second thoughts over purchasing formed panels to repair a floor.
Usually never a restoration, but a repair.
Restoring it? Perhaps to sell,the repair should be top notch in my opinion.
 
This is the area I am concerned with the AMD half floor pans not covering the red is the rust line so I need to remove at least a couple inches above that the yellow is where I need to cut to be in good metal. Will the half pans go that high?
@j par if I spend 300 on floor pans that magnum 360 I have is starting to sound tempting :rofl::poke:

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If the floors look like that it just makes my mind go to what does the trunk look like? What does underneath the doors look like? And then I start adding up the $800 floorboards and all the other stuff the carpet, the seat upholstery, a headliner and carpet, and put up a big major list of everything that needs to be done then I start thinking how much sentimental value am I going to pay for before I just buy a complete car....??....
 
Here goes, I admit I did not read all the advice, info, bickering maybe. I have fabbed many floorpans. Yes the best of all worlds is just buy good AMD pans but..

Use 18 Ga. mild sheet steel. Around here costs about $60 4 x8. .023 mig wire w gas. That rusted floor is thin and it will be hard to weld even when clean I bet. Clean the old pan GOOD where you plan to lay a bead. I use a large wire cup, maybe 4 inch dia to clean that rusted pitted metal. I will use Ospho to clean this pitted metal. It make nasty fumes speciallyif not totally dry before welding! NOT good to breath! Use a second coat and wash off with water to neutralize it OTHERWISE you might get a reaction with your primer. I use a right angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel to make my cuts generally. Get a sand bag to help form the pockets etc. Find a good solid angle iron like maybe on your car trailer use some c clamps use to for angle bends. I use splices to make the pockets, IF you an find someone with a bead roller to give it strenghth ribs that would be great. You will get better at it as you gain experience!!
 
Somewhere on this read it was mentioned that a member created/formed his own patch panels.

I think this may be the referenced thread with the DIY patch panels, by Brazilian Dart Alex, who has not been on the board since Nov of last year, nonetheless a great read and very inspirational. Though I would say yours would look to require a more extensive level of forming due to the damage areas on the vertical, good luck.

Brazilian Dodge Dart 76 (similar to 69 usa)

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If the floors look like that it just makes my mind go to what does the trunk look like? What does underneath the doors look like? And then I start adding up the $800 floorboards and all the other stuff the carpet, the seat upholstery, a headliner and carpet, and put up a big major list of everything that needs to be done then I start thinking how much sentimental value am I going to pay for before I just buy a complete car....??....
I have had the same thoughts I actually brought it up to my wife last night about just buying another one something more complete. She said and I quote " are you ******* serious?" Lol she said no you have put a ton of money in that one find a way and fix it! Haha she's the boss so.... haha
The drivers side floor is solid the trunk has some rust 20 years ago I repaired it back in 01 when I first bought it. I did it fiberglass patches dont tell noone tho. Haha other than the passenger side floor the only rust I know of is that passenger side frame rail that I welded up a couple years ago. Which it still bothers me I want to replace the whole frame rail. I may someday but not yet. I will get you some pics of under the door and trunk
 
Just opened opened up the trunk and pulled put the spare tire for the first time in close to 20 years guess what? Yep more rust :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::bs_flag::(

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I have had the same thoughts I actually brought it up to my wife last night about just buying another one something more complete. She said and I quote " are you ******* serious?" Lol she said no you have put a ton of money in that one find a way and fix it! Haha she's the boss so.... haha
The drivers side floor is solid the trunk has some rust 20 years ago I repaired it back in 01 when I first bought it. I did it fiberglass patches dont tell noone tho. Haha other than the passenger side floor the only rust I know of is that passenger side frame rail that I welded up a couple years ago. Which it still bothers me I want to replace the whole frame rail. I may someday but not yet. I will get you some pics of under the door and trunk
have you actually put a lot of money into the body of the car? Or just into Parts ready to go on to the car?...
 
Honestly this just comes from me find my Duster 6 years ago for $1,750... I had to tow it away as interior was out of it and the dash was messed up and the wiring was conjumbled in the motor maybe ran and maybe didn't LOL but one thing it was was solid... And still is... There's something to be said for a good foundation...
 
Honestly this just comes from me find my Duster 6 years ago for $1,750... I had to tow it away as interior was out of it and the dash was messed up and the wiring was conjumbled in the motor maybe ran and maybe didn't LOL but one thing it was was solid... And still is... There's something to be said for a good foundation...
Welcome to the rust belt home of rusty shitboxes!!
Honestly if seen alot newer vehicles in alot worst shape.
 
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