Doc Diff Offset

[Jimmy2Times]

All over the place today, long sorry short moving my pump to a different location. It will be in front of the shackle mount for the rear leaf spring. Figured before I enclose that are with the pump to take it all back apart ill order the offset kit now. Making sure this all i should need. And judging by my pics anyone see something that won't work for me. Traction bars etc, do the perchs get welded on im assuming? Shock angle change ok? Thanks in advance

Mopar A-Body 1/2" Spring Relocation Kit Offset Hangers & Shackles

Leaf Spring Perches (Pair) for Mopar, Ford, Chevy/GM

 

[str12-340]

That's where my fuel pump is on both my Darts - back-up pump to prime the engine, and when racing. This is also where the torque plates go - a great addition, so if you plan to install them in the future you might consider that. On my car that doesn't have torques plates I fashioned a similar thin sheet metal cover that is screwed to the subframe members to protect the fuel pump and hoses from road debris.

 

[Jimmy2Times]

That's where my fuel pump is on both my Darts - back-up pump to prime the engine, and when racing. This is also where the torque plates go - a great addition, so if you plan to install them in the future you might consider that. On my car that doesn't have torques plates I fashioned a similar thin sheet metal cover that is screwed to the subframe members to protect the fuel pump and hoses from road debris.

Guessing your referring to weld in plates that strengthen the torque box did this in one of my Foxbodies along with subframe connectors. If I'm going for 450-500 with drag radials down the road you recommend them? If so do you have a link?

 

[Jimmy2Times]

They look like linked photo, then your mounting pump almost inside of that box so to say? This box will enclose the area in front of shackle. I also saw your other post about the pump location. I agree id like to keep it in front of the shackle cause the fuel line follows the pinch weld and I can tie the pump in right their.

 

[jbc426]

View attachment 1715535009

FWIW, Not sure if you are aware that those slapper bars are not adjusted properly on the springs. They may still help a bit, but the snubber should be cut in half and be positioned so that the 1/2 snubber on the end is just about touching the front spring eye. I had to cut the rear perch, extend it and reweld it to get mine properly adjusted.

Once done, you should notice a significant improvement in how well they work.

 

[Jimmy2Times]

FWIW, Not sure if you are aware that those slapper bars are not adjusted properly on the springs. They may still help a bit, but the snubber should be cut in half and be positioned so that the 1/2 snubber on the end is just about touching the front spring eye. I had to cut the rear perch, extend it and reweld it to get mine properly adjusted.

Once done, you should notice a significant improvement in how well they work.

View attachment 1715535441

View attachment 1715535442

Nope didn't know appreciate you point that out.

So extending/adjusting the area perch of the traction bar like your 2nd picture will bring the assembly forward to be in line with spring eye?

 

[jbc426]

Nope didn't know appreciate you point that out.

So extending/adjusting the area perch of the traction bar like your 2nd picture will bring the assembly forward to be in line with spring eye?

It's easy to see if you have long enough bars to do it. if you loosen the bolts can you slide the bar forward enough to reach the front spring eye with your rubber snubber?

Also, you can temporarily remove the snubber, unbolt the rear clamp and raise the front of the bar to about 3/4" away from the bottom of the spring eye.

If it works out that you can do these rough measurements, then cut the rear mount and clamp in a piece of filler metal with vice grips and re-weld it. Cut your rubber bumper down to size and reassemble it.

Do a test with them off and on the car and let us know how they work for you when properly adjusted. There are still folks on here who tried them years ago with the bumper even farther away from the spring eye to the point they never touched the front of the spring, who say they don't work on Mopars. They won't if you leave them like that.

 

[Jimmy2Times]

It's easy to see if you have long enough bars to do it. if you loosen the bolts can you slide the bar forward enough to reach the front spring eye with your rubber snubber?

Also, you can temporarily remove the snubber, unbolt the rear clamp and raise the front of the bar to about 3/4" away from the bottom of the spring eye.

If it works out that you can do these rough measurements, then cut the rear mount and clamp in a piece of filler metal with vice grips and re-weld it. Cut your rubber bumper down to size and reassemble it.

Do a test with them off and on the car and let us know how they work for you when properly adjusted. There are still folks on here who tried them years ago with the bumper even farther away from the spring eye to the point they never touched the front of the spring, who say they don't work on Mopars. They won't if you leave them like that.

Awesome glad all this is being pointed out, I'll have my hands full. Car isn't going on the road this year so higher up on stands she goes and going to knock as much as I can in the rear of the car as possible. Keep you guys updated.

Thanks again for taking the time to point it out. Along with the rest of you guys so happy I joined up.