Does this guy know what he's talking about?

Is he right?

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    41
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rumblefish360 said:
I am. Sry sure he knows a lot more than a short video can tell. To seriously get into such discussions added into the video already made, you could talk for an hour on it. I find I amazing you choose to rip Tony.

The lease do so make a video explaining everything he didn’t as well as reschool him and us.

I await the link.....
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actually I was not ripping Tony as much as I was supporting Rusty (not that he needs it) in his use of long rods and light modern pistons.
I gave the video the benefit of saying that maybe he has not got it all figured out yet. In the video Tony (with the years of experience in all forms of drag racing) speaks to having to work long and hard to figure out why his motor did not pull under 2400 RPM, he also stated that the under square motors were new to him and stated they were a different animal. He was saying he does not have all the answers, and I agree.

I am not saying that I have all the answers either, but I know enough to say, slants like: a good bump in compression over stock, not a lot of ignition timing, better breathing. I also know enough to say the same thing that has been said many times 'Its your engine, build it your way'.
 
Most of us here know of the NA Toad from Carthage Mo that has out run the HellCat at MoKan Raceway 1/4 mi, but it is a purpose built drag car with substantial work and $$$. No doubt many secrets involved also.
Vast majority of us here are not really drag guys, but want a slant that has enough power to be a fun street car and to understand this unique animal better. So I like Tony's video, and I appreciate the time and effort he did to give it.
 
I was thinking back 7-8yrars ago when I saw I make his run against the HellCat, it was NA But maybe I am wrong?
He is from Carthage , Mo and may not go to the big slant deal, don't know. His name escapes me right now. I am sure members on her can fill in his name and some details.
He runs a Toad.
 
barbee6043 said:
I was thinking back 7-8yrars ago when I saw I make his run against the HellCat, it was NA But maybe I am wrong?
He is from Carthage , Mo and may not go to the big slant deal, don't know. His name escapes me right now. I am sure members on her can fill in his name and some details.
He runs a Toad.
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That would be Team Green, driver Rusty Heisten, participates in the Slant Six race series,has the B and C Gas records
Charlie S, participates on this forum has the C and D Nitrous records
 
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Too many people say "truck engine" to diss various engines. My 1996 Voyager has a 2.4L DOHC which was also used in performance Neons, albeit w/ turbo's. A bit strange app for a minivan, but it gives almost as much power as the V-6 if you rev it up. The slant can be souped-up w/ a turbo. Then the restricted intake and valves doesn't matter, you just jam the air in. See Bill Dedman's posts and the youtube of a guy running 9.09 sec 1/4-mile in a 67 Plymouth. But, turbo is a roll-your-own mod currently. Perhaps strangest thing of the slant is how they offset the water pump and integrated it into the block to shorten the length. Even then, no room to fit a clutch-fan, at least my early A's. Similarly, the main crank pulley is integral w/ the damper. To fit an AC pulley, they squeezed it between the damper and timing cover. Perhaps Chevy and Ford straight-six engines had similarly jammed components to shorten axial length.
 
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Is there any problem using a cast crank with a manual transmission?
By the time they got to 81 it sounds like that was an option
 
Every slant six crank I have seen or used was drilled for pilot bearing. That includes an ‘85 model D150 with a cast crank with an overdrive four speed that I swapped into a ‘73 D100 with an HD four speed.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Every slant six crank I have seen or used was drilled for pilot bearing. That includes an ‘85 model D150 with a cast crank with an overdrive four speed that I swapped into a ‘73 D100 with an HD four speed.
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I have an early cast crank that was drilled to depth but was not honed to size to accept the pilot bushing.
If you are talking about a crank that was in front of a manual
Transmission from the factory, then yes, it would be drilled and honed.
 
Thanks for the clarification! As far as I know they were all drilled. I could see honing the pilot bearing bore being skipped on automatic equipped vehicles. I thought it may not hurt to ask in the interest of the OP, but I would like to know myself. If it needs to be honed, would that be a machine shop job with either a fixed hone or a small diameter boring bar or could a person get by with a floating brake cylinder hone? I know it would have to be measured but at what point of material removal would you consider it a do at home vs. a sending it to the machine shop?
 
The ability to hone it correctly by hand would largely depend upon the experience and skill of the person manning the hone. Seeing how the relationship of the pilot bushing to the input shaft of the transmission and the effect on the shift process of a manual tranny,,,, I would be inclined to have it done on robust equipment at a good crank shop. Or just use a needle bearing that fits into the crank register.
 
BillGrissom said:
Too many people say "truck engine" to diss various engines.
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I say that around Pontiac guys because I love watchin the top of their heads blow off. LOL But the long rod slant six I am building personifies truck engine all to pieces with the small bore and long stroke.
 
my68barracuda said:
The ability to hone it correctly by hand would largely depend upon the experience and skill of the person manning the hone. Seeing how the relationship of the pilot bushing to the input shaft of the transmission and the effect on the shift process of a manual tranny,,,, I would be inclined to have it done on robust equipment at a good crank shop. Or just use a needle bearing that fits into the crank register.
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I agree 100%. Even though I am pretty dang good on a drill press, I would still take it to a shop.
 
All slant six cranks have the hole drilled for the pilot bearing/bushing. Not all cranks had the hole "honed" to the correct size. At one time it was possible to buy a pilot bushing with a smaller OD from NAPA, that would fit the raw drilled hole. As far as I know that bushing has been discontinued for several years. I have taken a stock bushing, and turned down the OD in a lathe so it would fit the raw hole. With the late (1968 and newer) crank you can use the roller pilot bearing that fits in the converter hole.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Thanks for the clarification! As far as I know they were all drilled. I could see honing the pilot bearing bore being skipped on automatic equipped vehicles. I thought it may not hurt to ask in the interest of the OP, but I would like to know myself. If it needs to be honed, would that be a machine shop job with either a fixed hone or a small diameter boring bar or could a person get by with a floating brake cylinder hone? I know it would have to be measured but at what point of material removal would you consider it a do at home vs. a sending it to the machine shop?
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How old are You....??? 'cause You'll be a lot older by the time You wheel-cyl hone that thing,......and the bore will no doubt be tapered when You're through, just as they swear in the 52nd POTUS..........lol!
I've done it by turning an OE bushing OD down to fit the crank,..much easier..........
.....and what Charrlie_S said,..if it's a newer '68 &^ crank do the later converter hub bore brg. unit.
 
Apparently, not old enough, lolol! I really didn't think it would be viable to do it DIY unless you have access to some pretty serious machine equipment. I like the roller pilots a whole lot better anyway.
 
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