hula
Well-Known Member
I'm doing the front end so might as well do brakes. So any advice on rotors, pad, calipers is welcomed.
Doing brakes on a 72 Dart. Any upgrades or pad advice?
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Check 'em and adjust them. If they haven't been bled in a year or two, bleed them. That's the only item that needs service just due to time. The brake fluid absorbs moisture and eventually that degrades it perfromance and corrosion resisting inhibitors. In a moist humid climate its worse. In my experience, disk brakes are more susceptible to rust issues and I bleed my car's brakes once a year. Anyone racing ought to due that just as a precaution.
If the lining is worn down to or near the limits, then replace the shoes or pads. With shoes, its better to buy a new spring kit at the same time. Last but not least, make sure the new linings have friction properties as good as the old. Too much junk sold these days. The edge code is a rough guide to that.
If the lining is worn down to or near the limits, then replace the shoes or pads. With shoes, its better to buy a new spring kit at the same time. Last but not least, make sure the new linings have friction properties as good as the old. Too much junk sold these days. The edge code is a rough guide to that.
mobileparts
Well-Known Member
If it is a factory four-piston caliper DISC BRAKE CAR -- you would be BEST - ADVISED to find N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Pads ---
Outlawed now thanks to E.P.A> -- but still the SMOOOOOOOOOOOthest Braking System known to mankind,............
Fortunately for you, I have a couple sets of N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ at this moment in time..............
Outlawed now thanks to E.P.A> -- but still the SMOOOOOOOOOOOthest Braking System known to mankind,............
Fortunately for you, I have a couple sets of N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ at this moment in time..............
I'm curious. There were different ones over the years. Which ones do you have?
Here's the ones I have.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If the 4-piston K-H calipers (64-72), insure they have the upgraded stainless steel pistons. A magnet will tell. The SS pistons are cheap (rockauto, ...). Rusted pistons was a big problem on early Mopars and Mustangs, and what started the Stainless Steel Brake Company. Please state your car year and such when asking such questions.
mobileparts
Well-Known Member
EXXXXXXXXXXACTLY.............. That's why I canvass the Universe to find ++ N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Pads & Shoes ---
in the Mopar World, the GM world, the Ford World, the Rambler world, the Studebaker world, etc., etc. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
in the Mopar World, the GM world, the Ford World, the Rambler world, the Studebaker world, etc., etc. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There's a reason asbestos brake pads went away. Notice that "auto mechanic" and exposure to dust is mentioned specifically for risks/causes of mesothelioma. It wasn't "tree hugger" BS that drove out asbestos brake pads, it was thousands of people in industry dying of cancer.
Mesothelioma - Symptoms and causes
And if you're too afraid of wearing out your rotors with semi-metallic pads, which will stop the car better anyway, then maybe just stop driving the car altogether and park it in a museum. Brake rotors wear out, that's what they're designed to do. The more aggressive the pad material is, the faster your car stops and the faster the rotors wear out.
So, it's really just a matter of whether you'd rather stop your car faster or wear out your rotors slower. Saving your rotors will seem pretty silly if you get in an accident because you didn't stop fast enough. If you drive the car, wearing out brake rotors is just part of the game.
Mesothelioma - Symptoms and causes
And if you're too afraid of wearing out your rotors with semi-metallic pads, which will stop the car better anyway, then maybe just stop driving the car altogether and park it in a museum. Brake rotors wear out, that's what they're designed to do. The more aggressive the pad material is, the faster your car stops and the faster the rotors wear out.
So, it's really just a matter of whether you'd rather stop your car faster or wear out your rotors slower. Saving your rotors will seem pretty silly if you get in an accident because you didn't stop fast enough. If you drive the car, wearing out brake rotors is just part of the game.
I generally agree. I'll quibble on what type of material stops a car 'better'. Because in general I do agree that 'semi-metallics' tend to be a good choice for these cars and
my only quibble is that's gross simplification.
Please answer my question.
If you really have OEM pads and shoes, in particular the ones for the OP's car, then you should be able to show or type the number on the pad or lining just like I did; And if you have the box, the Chrysler part number.
Doing brakes on a 72 Dart. Any upgrades or pad advice?
Oh of course, there are a lot of different pad compounds and manufacturers out there and how well they work on a specific car depends a lot on the use of the vehicle. There are pads for race use that will stop the car amazingly well when they’re hot, but don’t work well at all cold, so despite their race pedigree they’re a terrible choice for a street car. But on the street the general category of “semi-metallic” pads work quite well.
Saying the factory pads work better than what’s available in the aftermarket now is complete folly. Not only is the asbestos dangerous to your health, there are far better options available.
The member posting about his NOS pads pretty much just spams brake threads trying to sell his stuff. Other than arguing with me about the false claims he’s making about the performance of the original pads, pretty much all of his posts are an attempt to sell his parts. Honestly he should probably be required to have vendor status the way he posts, but that’s just my opinion.
I hear you. I get it. And knew you understand there are many differences etc, that's why I said I generally agree. I don't know if a generalization can be made about OEM linings, that's why I'm curious about what he has. I have an opinion about the linings I pictured, and you may already know it since you've seen my posts hear and on moparts. But right now I'd just like @mobileparts to show what he has, if anything. I asked as a matter of historical interest. I looked - he did post in the sale section - like 4 or 5 years ago, I'm trying to give him the benefit of the doubt.
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Hey fellas, we're done here.
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