dans4door1970
Well-Known Member
The lower linkage on the zbar is touching the tubes. it moves but is resting on the header. can I remove spacer between the bell housing and zbar with the 2 bolts or do they make a thinner one? I don't need much
dougs headers dont clear zbar clutch linkage
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pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Grind off the lower portion of the bar for clearance. You may need to bend it a tad for added clearance. I had to do this even w/TTI's.
Nope, not the proper procedure. I posted this in the OP's other thread already, and it's been discussed numerous times. The proper modification comes straight from the TTI website, both TTI's and Doug's instructions make it clear that z-bar modification is required for their long tube headers. TTI goes one further than posts the specs needed.
Here's what the modified z-bar looks like. Basically you take the arm for the clutch adjuster, cut it off the Z-bar, slide it down to the very end of the z bar and reverse it so that the clutch adjuster stud faces inside instead of out and weld the arm back on. It's a pretty simple operation if you have a welder. When it's done all the arms are straight and it's hard to tell it apart from stock unless you've got an original and a modified side by side.
Here's the specs on the stock and modified Z-bars. I labeled it Doug's because that's what I have, but it's from the TTI website. The PDF is below, but here's a screenshot of it so you can see the picture without a download.
j par
Well-hung Member
And this is why at the very least everyone working on these cars should have a $99 Harbor Freight welder and a $15 cutting grinder. or better if you can afford too.
skep419
No show, all go!
dans4door1970
Well-Known Member
Yes. Thanks againNope, not the proper procedure. I posted this in the OP's other thread already, and it's been discussed numerous times. The proper modification comes straight from the TTI website, both TTI's and Doug's instructions make it clear that z-bar modification is required for their long tube headers. TTI goes one further than posts the specs needed.
Here's what the modified z-bar looks like. Basically you take the arm for the clutch adjuster, cut it off the Z-bar, slide it down to the very end of the z bar and reverse it so that the clutch adjuster stud faces inside instead of out and weld the arm back on. It's a pretty simple operation if you have a welder. When it's done all the arms are straight and it's hard to tell it apart from stock unless you've got an original and a modified side by side.
Here's the specs on the stock and modified Z-bars. I labeled it Doug's because that's what I have, but it's from the TTI website. The PDF is below, but here's a screenshot of it so you can see the picture without a download.
View attachment 1714966344
dans4door1970
Well-Known Member
So the stud in the pic needs to be moved to the inside of the bar correct?Nope, not the proper procedure. I posted this in the OP's other thread already, and it's been discussed numerous times. The proper modification comes straight from the TTI website, both TTI's and Doug's instructions make it clear that z-bar modification is required for their long tube headers. TTI goes one further than posts the specs needed.
Here's what the modified z-bar looks like. Basically you take the arm for the clutch adjuster, cut it off the Z-bar, slide it down to the very end of the z bar and reverse it so that the clutch adjuster stud faces inside instead of out and weld the arm back on. It's a pretty simple operation if you have a welder. When it's done all the arms are straight and it's hard to tell it apart from stock unless you've got an original and a modified side by side.
Here's the specs on the stock and modified Z-bars. I labeled it Doug's because that's what I have, but it's from the TTI website. The PDF is below, but here's a screenshot of it so you can see the picture without a download.
View attachment 1714966344
It's more than that, the whole arm that holds the stud for attaching the clutch adjuster has to be moved to the end of the z-bar, just shy of an inch of movement as diagrammed in the picture. And then the stud has to be flipped so it faces the inside of the z-bar, but if the arm is detached to move it to the end of the bar you just have to spin it around before re-welding it.
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
All ya needed to do is bend the lower arm for clearance and grind a little off the end. Easy fix.
Just because that worked for you doesn't mean it will work for everyone. If it did, the instructions to modify the stock z-bar would explain exactly that. They don't. No reason for TTI to tell you how to modify a stock z-bar, doesn't make them any money. And yet they do, and that's not what they recommend. Could be it won't work on everything, could be because it negatively effects the clutch linkage alignment, or it could be that it changes the ratio since the arm is effectively shortened by bending it.
Sorry for posting on am old thread but I just ran into this issue. Aside from moving the arm over and revesing it; is there a specific angle it has to be in relation to the arm that connects to the pedal? Like arms on a clock?Nope, not the proper procedure. I posted this in the OP's other thread already, and it's been discussed numerous times. The proper modification comes straight from the TTI website, both TTI's and Doug's instructions make it clear that z-bar modification is required for their long tube headers. TTI goes one further than posts the specs needed.
Here's what the modified z-bar looks like. Basically you take the arm for the clutch adjuster, cut it off the Z-bar, slide it down to the very end of the z bar and reverse it so that the clutch adjuster stud faces inside instead of out and weld the arm back on. It's a pretty simple operation if you have a welder. When it's done all the arms are straight and it's hard to tell it apart from stock unless you've got an original and a modified side by side.
Here's the specs on the stock and modified Z-bars. I labeled it Doug's because that's what I have, but it's from the TTI website. The PDF is below, but here's a screenshot of it so you can see the picture without a download.
View attachment 1714966344
You want to keep the clocking the same. So you cut the weld, slide the arm to the end of the z-bar, and flip it over. But you want to keep the angle between the two arms the same.
I just bought the TTI z bar. Still hit the header so I had to tweak it a little. Now nothing hits anything and the clutch pedal still won't come all the way up.
There are probably other issues causing that. There are so many variables with clutch linkage, that no one problem is an absolute fix for another. You just have to understand what is going on and adapt. Understand what the one or two springs that are there are for or what they actually do.
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I am trying bud. Just frustrating. It worked with the stock slant 6 z bar, stock exhaust etc. Now with a tti z bar and spring I got from Brewers it just won't come back up. I confirmed it has the 3 prong clutch disc just like stock. I may pull the pedals and lube them to see what happens.
Can you share a pic? Did you keep the overcenter spring?
If you have a 3 finger pressure plate, you need the over center spring, actually, you need the heavy duty one and the side brace. The spring between the bell and the fork keeps the throwout bearing from riding on the pressure plate fingers. Your clutch pedal doesn't have to come up even with the brake pedal, mine doesn't. The overcenter spring is to help you push the clutch in, not to hold it up. If you had a diaphragm clutch, then they recommend taking it out. If your z-bar is square and parallel, you really shouldn't have a problem, as long as you have enough travel to disengage the clutch and the throwout bearing is off the fingers when out.
perfacar
Well-Known Member
i kept the over center spring, i don't know how to post pictures on here, i attached spring to pedal on the part of arm, above the pedal, bolted it to a bolt that is at bottom of steering column. very simple setup.
So I think I figured it out. Once I changed to the TTI z bar I need the longer adjusting rod (67 and later) that actuates the clutch fork. The previous set up had the shorter rod and even adjusted all the way out (with the new z bar) it did not have enough length to get the pedal up past the over center point. That is the theory anyways (hope it makes sense). Got the new stuff on order from Brewers as we speak. I appreciate all the support.
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