Doug's Headers installed with some clearance issues

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68 A

68 A

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FABO Gold Member
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Hi,

So I finally got motivated and got my new headers on. Another project i did during this one was to change the power steering box over to a manual steering box. So i cut my old headers off and changed the boxes and put the new ceramic coated dougs headers on Saturday. They went in pretty well, but i don't think the drivers side is correct. The primary from the #1 cylinder is touching the steering box, and the other 3 primaries are touching the torsion bar. The only thing i can think of is that the engine mount on the drivers side is too tall. If it was shorter the headers would pivot down a bit and away from the torsion bar and the steering box. Has anyone else had an issue like this?

Thanks

Steve

heres some pictures

Dart 119.JPG


Dart 122.JPG


Dart 123.JPG
 
Odd, first time I seen Dougs headers hit something.
 
Wow,i thought Dougs were just like tti's from that second picture i can tell they're not..no issues with my tti's...:-D
 
The engine is supposed to be 2" offset to the passenger's side. My TTIs did not fit either until I shimmed the motor mounts to get the engine in the correct location. The factory k-frames are really sloppy and the tolerances are wide. Some k-frames are better then others. I have always had problems with headers in my car and the reason is the k-frame. Once I got the engine sitting in there according to TTI specs the headers cleared everything. No dents were needed.

You can down load the TTI instructions which have the engine location specifications from here:

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Header-Small Block/340ABE.htm
 
340sFastback said:
The engine is supposed to be 2" offset to the passenger's side. My TTIs did not fit either until I shimmed the motor mounts to get the engine in the correct location. The factory k-frames are really slopped and the tolerances are wide. Some k-frames are better then others. I have always had problems with headers in my car and the reason is the k-frame. Once I got the engine sitting in there according to TTI specs the headers cleared everything. No dents were needed.

You can down load the TTI instructions which have the engine location specifications from here:

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Header-Small Block/340ABE.htm
Click to expand...
Good info, thanks man.
 
Engine likely isn't in the correct position. Saggy engine mounts, etc.

And tti fit everything perfect.... yeah right. More pot stirring from the usual suspect.
 
There headers, they are supposed to rub stuff:) Never had a set fit anything without having to dimple a couple spots. I installed new engine mounts before attempting the job and they still rubbed the torsion bars and steering linkage. You need a torch and a couple sockets the proper diameter to dimple them a little, too bad they are so shiny. Good times.
 
I would not dent anything until you have verified the engine sits in there according to factory specs that TTI has outlined in that link I posted above. I always had to dent headers in the past on my car until I got the engine sitting in there correctly. My TTI headers didn't fit initially but now they fit with zero clearance issues. No dents either. I run the Shumaker torque strap and that keeps the engine from shifting around a lot so that helps too.
 
These cars have HUGE manufacturing tolerances. So expect on occasion to move stuff around a bit to get it located properly.
 
340sFastback said:
The engine is supposed to be 2" offset to the passenger's side. My TTIs did not fit either until I shimmed the motor mounts to get the engine in the correct location. The factory k-frames are really sloppy and the tolerances are wide. Some k-frames are better then others. I have always had problems with headers in my car and the reason is the k-frame. Once I got the engine sitting in there according to TTI specs the headers cleared everything. No dents were needed.

You can down load the TTI instructions which have the engine location specifications from here:

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Header-Small Block/340ABE.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

When i get back out to the garage I will get the tape measure out and check the engine locataion.


stroked 340 said:
Wow,i thought Dougs were just like tti's from that second picture i can tell they're not..no issues with my tti's...:-D
Click to expand...

And I definatly wasn't suprised with this response! I've seen several threads disscussing the differences between the two. I'm glad yours worked, i'll get mine to work too.

Thanks again,

Steve
 
Nice thing about those Dougs is they don't have that slip fit tube that goes right next to the brake line on the frame rail. I'd still like to know if the Dougs outside tubes hang into the exhaust port like the TTI do.
 
My TTIs touched the steering gear box.... I removed the slim motor mounts and installed the thick motor mounts and problem solved. I'm talking about the rubber insulators.
 
mullinax95 said:
My TTIs touched the steering gear box.... I removed the slim motor mounts and installed the thick motor mounts and problem solved. I'm talking about the rubber insulators.
Click to expand...

The rubber insulators on my mounts look like they are at least an inch thick, maybe a little thicker. I am assuming that they are the thicker of the two you are talking about.

Still haven't gotten out and measured yet, trying to get the house cleaned up. And you can see how well that is going since I am here...
 
68 A said:
The rubber insulators on my mounts look like they are at least an inch thick, maybe a little thicker. I am assuming that they are the thicker of the two you are talking about.

Still haven't gotten out and measured yet, trying to get the house cleaned up. And you can see how well that is going since I am here...
Click to expand...


These are the ones I bought from Summit. As you can see they are thicker than one inch and was just enough to raise the motor to clear the gear box.


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...t=PIO-A2469&N=700+4294908078+115&autoview=sku
 
Boy I wish I would have know about those motor mounts. They would have worked great on my car. Instead I shimmed my up. I like the way they have the built in locks.
 
Maybe van/truck mounts? I've had a set of those and they gave me heck putting an engine in one time.
 
Can't beat the price either!

I think it was the cheapest part that I had to buy on my car.
 
$5.99 cheap is right..how long are they going to last??..if your making any kind of real power any mounts with rubber are useless..poly-locs are the "cats arse" not cheap but worth it, my duster was tearing up rubber mounts left and right..not a problem since putting in the poly-locs...
 
stroked 340 said:
$5.99 cheap is right..how long are they going to last??..if your making any kind of real power any mounts with rubber are useless..poly-locs are the "cats arse" not cheap but worth it, my duster was tearing up rubber mounts left and right..not a problem since putting in the poly-locs...
Click to expand...

I'm running a torque strap and got the motor locked down pretty good. You needed one on your Duster so it wouldn't tear them up left and right. I would have installed one immediately after it tore the first set up. If had a torque strap in the beginning you didn't have it adjusted correctly that's for sure.
 
mullinax95 said:
I'm running a torque strap and got the motor locked down pretty good. You needed one on your Duster so it wouldn't tear them up left and right. I would have installed one immediately after it tore the first set up. If had a torque strap in the beginning you didn't have it adjusted correctly that's for sure.
Click to expand...

I do have the Schumaker strap and it IS adjusted correctly,motor still ripped the rubber mounts right out..no problem now with the poly-locs..
 
I am running the Schumaker Torque Strap. I don't see how the motor mounts are going to break with one of those installed? That engine isn't going to move at all with one of those installed.
 
If you were to shim the mounts about 3/8 of an inch on both sides your problems would be gone. If you look at the pics you posted just loosen the motor mounts, grab a block of wood, raise the motor just a touch and you will see the needed space appear in those tight spots. That is what appears to be wrong on your car. Them motor mounts have the whole front of the motor sitting just 'that much' too low, good luck,
Chas
 
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