early abody
DISASSEMBLY
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
2. If a car lift is not available, raise the vehicle 2 feet or higher and support it with adequate
safety stands. Make sure the vehicle is on a flat solid surface and is stable.
3. Apply penetrating oil to all nuts and bolts to be removed.
4. Drain the radiator and save the anti-freeze.
5. Remove and mark all spark plug wires and then remove all spark plugs.
6. Cut head pipes off just before the transmission cross-member approximately three inches in
front of the transmission mount. Loosen and remove all head pipe bolts.
7. It is easier to remove the factory exhaust manifolds if you lift the motor 3-4”. To do this, you
will have to remove the ¾” nut and washer located at the bottom of the K-member. Place a
jack with a board between the jack and the oil pan to support the motor and lift the motor 3-
4”. It is best to do this by offsetting the jack and doing one side at a time. While the engine is
still in the air, remove the old manifold from the top of the car. Set the engine back down
and do the other side. You will have to lift the engine up again to install these headers.
8. We recommend removing all of the exhaust studs (with a stud removal tool) and chasing the
threads with a tap. Do not force them. You may break a stud. If they won’t come out, just
leave them in. You can still install the headers with the studs in but the supplied bolts make
for an easier installation.
9. Turn the wheels all the way to the right towards the passenger side. Remove the wire
connections to the starter and remove the starter.
10. Remove the cotter key and nut from the idler arm on the passenger side of the car. You can
do this from the top of the car by using a 2 foot long extension and a ¾” universal socket.
Use a pickle fork and hammer to remove the idler arm from the frame being careful to not
damage the idler arm. Pull the idler arm down as far as it will go.
11. It is much easier to install the driver’s side header if you remove the torsion bar first. The
header can be installed with the torsion bar in place but you will probably wish you removed
it first.
12. Remove the oil filter and 90 degree adaptor from the motor.
13. Remove the gaskets and any gasket material or any carbon deposits that remain on the
head surface. The use of a gasket removal agent will ease the removal of any gasket
material. Use care not to get debris into ports or spark plug holes.
14. If you have left the two exhaust studs in the head, it will be necessary to notch the outside of
the flanges to the bolt hole. Remember, it is only necessary to cut the outside holes on each
of the two header flanges.
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ASSEMBLY
1. Turn the wheels all the way to the left towards the driver’s side. We strongly recommend
that you remove the driver’s side torsion bar, it is possible to install the header
without removing it, but you will wish you had! Lift the motor 3-4” and starting on the
Driver’s side, slide the lower main section of the header from underneath the car. If you did
not remove the torsion bar, you will have to spread the two pairs of tubes apart slightly to
get around the torsion bar. Note: The two flanged tubes go on the inside of the torsion bar
and the two slip connection tubes go on the outside of the torsion bar. You may have to
twist and rotate this section up and down and side to side in order to get this by the torsion Part No. 0110-003005 Page 3 Rev 5 -3-27-13 DSL
bar. Be careful not to bend the slip connections while doing this process. Once the header is
in, let it set in that position and go onto the next step.
2. Turn the wheels all the way to the right, towards the passenger side. Be careful not to run
the wheel into the header. Install the starter and tighten the bolts securely, but do not install
the wires yet.
3. From above slip the upper center section of the header into position. Make sure that one
flange goes under the steering shaft. Do not bolt it up. Pull the center section of the header
forward towards the front of the car and let it rest there.
4. Apply Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer on the slip connection. From the top slip the #4
tube into the lower main section of the header (this is the tube closest to the firewall).
Twisting the tube while inserting may make this process easier.
5. Bolt the upper center section to the bottom of the header. To do this, apply a THIN film of
Ultra Copper Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer on both sides of the two flange gaskets
and insert them between the two flanges. To align the bolt holes, start one bolt from the
bottom through the hole that has the nut welded on it. To get to this bolt use a 15” or longer
¼” drive extension with a 9/16” universal socket. Do the same on the other flange but from
the top. Do no tighten. These are difficult to get to, take your time and be patient.
6. Start the rest of the nuts and bolts, making sure that you use lock washers.
7. Lower the motor back into position and tighten the bolt on the driver’s side.
8. Slip the header gasket between the head and the flange. Start the four 5/16” header bolts
with lock washers. Do not tighten. Tighten the lower two bolt flanges.
9. Apply Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer on the front tube slip connection and insert it.
Install the last two 5/16” header bolts and lock washers. If you left the two exhaust studs in,
use the factory manifold washers and nuts on the two end studs. Tighten all bolts or studs
evenly.
10. Replace the starter wires, making sure they have adequate clearance around the header.
11. Reinstall the torsion bar if removed. Re install the oil filter mount and filter. Check the oil!
12. Check for clearances around shift cables, wires, brake lines, etc. It will be necessary to
move the front brake line away from the header tube as well as the proportioning valve.
13. Raise the passenger side of the motor 3-4”. Remove the two slip tubes from the main
header. With the idler arm pulled down and out of the way, install the main section of the
header from underneath the car. Make sure that one slip connection is on the outside of the
torsion bar.
14. If you left the factory exhaust studs in, cut the two end flanges like the left side.
15. Apply a generous portion of Ultra Copper Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer to the #4
(rear) tube slip connection and insert it into place.
16. Lower the motor back into position and tighten the motor mount nuts.
17. Slip the header gasket between the head and the flange. Start the four 5/16” header bolts
and lock washers. Do not tighten.
18. Reinstall the idler arm and tighten the ¾” nut securely and insert a new cotter key.
19. Apply Hi-Temp Silicone Sealer to the #1(front) tube slip connection and insert it into place,
twisting as needed to seat it completely.
20. Tighten all bolts and studs. Like the left side, use the factory exhaust nuts and washers on
the two end studs.
21. Check for clearances around shift cables, wires, brake lines, etc. It will be necessary to
move the front brake line away from the header tube.
22. Put the anti-freeze back in and replace the battery ground cable.
