Doug's or TTI headers

Discussion in 'Early A-Body Discussions' started by MonkeyTrev, Mar 8, 2018.

  1. MonkeyTrev

    MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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    I'm having a tough time deciding for my 65 Barracuda. It's an expensive purchase, so I just want to get the best product for my money. Pictures of fitment would be nice along with product quality.
     
  2. B3422w5

    B3422w5 Well-Known Member

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    If the part number for the TTI headers your looking at are the same as a 66 Dart would be.....
    My brother just installed them in his 66Dart. What a pain in the arse.
    Not sure about Dougs for that application
    I have Dougs in my 69 Dart and love them
     
  3. Plymouth 65

    Plymouth 65 Floorable Deplorable

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    I've got Doug's on my 65 Cuda. Fitment is great! Either manufacturer is going to be tight in an early A body! 65'
     
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    • MonkeyTrev

      MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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      Are you running the D-450?
       
    • Plymouth 65

      Plymouth 65 Floorable Deplorable

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      Yes, D-450's 65'
       
    • jdsduster

      jdsduster Well-Known Member

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      god not this thread again.search button works wonders
       
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      • kc0r8y

        kc0r8y Well-Known Member

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        I agree, but you could have said it a bit nicer.

        OP - If you search the forums, this has been a topic posted several times. You can get the info you seek quicker that way rather then to start a new post and wait for people to reply.

        From what I've read the opinions have been split.

        Good Luck.
         
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        • abodyjoe

          abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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          on an early abody the TTI have larger tubes, the TTI are really tight especially it running larger then stock torsion bars..

          if i do another early abody i'll deal with maybe a little less power and go with the smaller tube dougs.
           
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          • abodyjoe

            abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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            not sure about that.. a search ya have to wade through tons of bullshit and still maybe not get the answer.
             
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            • MonkeyTrev

              MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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              I have stock torsion bars, I’m gonna say 350-400hp is what I’m going for with my 360. So I’m not sure which one would be better 2.5” or 3” ?
               
            • memike

              memike Super Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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              So true , I went Hooker fender well because I did not bring my wader's Joe :lol:
               
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              • chrgdrt

                chrgdrt Well-Known Member

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                I'm going thru the same dilemma for my 64 Dart.
                Doug's are a bit cheaper if you can get the AZ 20% off deal but the smaller collector and slip tubes bother me. I had hookers on my 68 and never could get the slip tubes to completely seal. they do make for an easier install though.
                The TTI's larger stepped tubes, 3" collector, and no slip tubes. tougher install and a bit priceier (no discounts ava.). Also the TTi's are designed for 340/360 ports where as the Doug's where designed for 273/318 ports.
                My car is going to be mostly a track vehicle so I'm leaning real heavy right now to the TTi's.

                Any solutions for sealing the slip tubes? I'm always up for saving $$

                Thanks, Gary
                 
              • MonkeyTrev

                MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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                I had no idea that Doug’s had slip tubes. That is a little disappointed, I know it makes install easier, but I wouldn’t want the leaks.
                 
              • roccodart440

                roccodart440 Well-Known Member

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                I'd advise going TTI
                 
              • chrgdrt

                chrgdrt Well-Known Member

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                If my research is correct Doug's 63-66 a-body-slip tubes, 2 3/4' collector.
                67 & up no slip tubes, 3" collector
                TTi- 63-66 no slip tubes, 3" collector,
                67 & up # 7 slip tube, 3" collector.
                 
              • MonkeyTrev

                MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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                I’m leaning towards TTI, because I would like to avoid slip tubes. For the money they cost I don’t wanna deal with leaks in the tubes.
                 
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                • chrgdrt

                  chrgdrt Well-Known Member

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                  I'm with ya on that.
                  The next decision is coated or uncoated. it's cheaper to buy them coated then to have it done afterwards as long as there are no mods needed to make them fit. and if I'm going to do a trial fit the doug's probobly go in and out alot easier....food for thought,.....I'm still leaning towards the TTi's.
                  I'm running stock 6 cyl t-bars, manual steering and brakes so I don't really see a fitment prob.
                   
                • MonkeyTrev

                  MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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                  I’m using the stock v8 torsion bars, manual steering, and drums. I’m going to disk brakes later on, after I sell some organs to afford these headers.
                   
                • 66durgederp

                  66durgederp "pull hard, itll come easy"

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                  I did TTI-636A's in my 66 dart, 408, eddy heads. My reasoning was A. I like one piece headers and have a borderline psychotic hatred for 2 bolt flanges and slip joints.
                  B. The dougs couldnt handle the power im making AS WELL as the TTI's....so my decision was easy.

                  Required items to remove/modify:
                  Steering column and torsion bars.
                  modify the trans mount to clear a RH pipe - super easy

                  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED items to modify/check/remove:
                  The union "T" for the brake hard lines - relocate it. just do it.
                  Make damn sure whatever starter you plan on using will fit correctly. My O.E. mini nippy DID NOT fit how it was supposed to - Im running a TF904 - should have been fine - not even close. Called TTI about it and they claimed it was due to "jig variations"....oooookaaayy.....anyway I had to use a clockable powermaster unit and barely dimple the #5 runner to clear.
                  When you relocate your brake "T" fitting and make new lines, remove the master cylinder - youll thank yourself later.
                  I used Nord-loc washers on my header bolts - ive gone back through to check and see if any of them worked themselves loose - not a single one has. Im impressed. Also, I used percys seal-4-good flange gaskets. works well.
                  My 66 was a factory column shift car - I had to cut off the last 1.5" of the steering column tube to clear the last runner - once again, no biggie since it was already out.
                  oil filter - most people use the factory 90 deg. adapter and then cuss when its time to service the engine because its a pain to get to.
                  I didnt see a single mention of using a remote adapter with TTI's, only people saying "well TTI says it wont fit so no, they dont fit"
                  Well surprise!!!!! just like how the starter was "supposed" to fit, a canton 90 degree remote adapter WILL fit reeeeealy snug with a little bit of clearancing on the housing - theres PLENTY of meat in the canton housing to do so without affecting its integrity.
                  Evidently no one thats tried to mount an adapter with TTI's has ever heard of a grinder.....
                  Same goes for the factory brace bars that go from the lower portion of the bellhousing to the side of the block - with a bit of clearancing, they DO fit as well.
                   
                • B3422w5

                  B3422w5 Well-Known Member

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                  Yep. My brother just put the TTI’s on his 66 Dart with a 416 stroker.
                  I doubt there would be much power difference between those and the Dougs though.
                  Both arent optimal
                   
                • MonkeyTrev

                  MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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                  Did you build a heat shield between master cylinder and header?
                   
                • 66durgederp

                  66durgederp "pull hard, itll come easy"

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                  I didnt feel the need to. Between the ceramic coating, internal thermal barrier, and the distance between the master and the header I dont believe its going to be an issue. I also run DOT 4 for shits n giggles.
                   
                • MonkeyTrev

                  MonkeyTrev Well-Known Member

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                  Okay
                  okay thank you, for all the information