Drag radials and a four speed

-

lead69

hopeless car junkie
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
1,888
Reaction score
1,628
Location
Vancouver,Wa
Just curious if anyone here is doing it?. I am setting up my 72 dart with caltrac suspension, viking double adjustable shocks, a clutch tamer, 315 60 15 et street radial Rs and a 3.09 first a833. Looking for tens n/a and 9's with a 100 shot. mostly looking to have a good time but I may bracket race at the mopar nats, otherwise it's heads up fun.
 
Just curious if anyone here is doing it?. I am setting up my 72 dart with caltrac suspension, viking double adjustable shocks, a clutch tamer, 315 60 15 et street radial Rs and a 3.09 first a833. Looking for tens n/a and 9's with a 100 shot. mostly looking to have a good time but I may bracket race at the mopar nats, otherwise it's heads up fun.
I have a 309 first gear in my 4.10 geared Roadrunner with a 28 inch tire. (275/60R15) and let me just say it's too much gear. It's a quick shift. Use 355 gears or a tall tire. This is with a 450 hp 440.
 
This is just a personal opinion, from a 727 driver, but I think you will have better luck with real slicks. Slicks can spin a bit and still work, drag radials need to dead hook, they don't recover from a spinning situation well.
Your clutch tamer may throw my opinion out the window, however.
 
I have a 309 first gear in my 4.10 geared Roadrunner with a 28 inch tire. (275/60R15) and let me just say it's too much gear. It's a quick shift. Use 355 gears or a tall tire. This is with a 450 hp 440.
I have 4.10s but also have 30" tires so it will help. I like the slr for the street/na even if it is a bit much for the nitrous, the car is going to be a compromise.
 
This is just a personal opinion, from a 727 driver, but I think you will have better luck with real slicks. Slicks can spin a bit and still work, drag radials need to dead hook, they don't recover from a spinning situation well.
Your clutch tamer may throw my opinion out the window, however.
Understand and have had allot of legnthy discussions with some smart guys and that's the plan with the clutch tamer. The guys that are going fast with manuals and drag radials are using adjustable clutches. I don't know if you are familiar with the et street radial R but they are a different animal. They are a radial type construction but use nylon plies and are very light/pliable compared to traditional drag radials. It's the first radial that mt advertises as actually having some success with manual trans cars. Up until now I always ran auto cars and man drag radials are so nice compared to slicks for the type of street strip I do.
 
If this is a dedicated race car I would agree but I ran an 833 OD and 4.10s in a 73 340 4sp Dart street /strip and it worked great !

I have a 309 first gear in my 4.10 geared Roadrunner with a 28 inch tire. (275/60R15) and let me just say it's too much gear. It's a quick shift. Use 355 gears or a tall tire. This is with a 450 hp 440.
 
If this is a dedicated race car I would agree but I ran an 833 OD and 4.10s in a 73 340 4sp Dart street /strip and it worked great !
I currently have a cast iron overdrive in the car that I was planning on hitting the track with but I had some issues with it and decided to hit the easy button and throw in the std. a833 with the low first. After I get the car dialed in I am going to swap the overdrive back in and really see how much difference in et there is.
 
Last edited:
What ratio is second gear in the non OD? Is it an early 833 converted to a splined output ?
 
What ratio is second gear in the non OD? Is it an early 833 converted to a splined output ?
They were a factory trans made from 74-75 for the 318 I believe and they have a 3.09,1.92,1.40,1.00 ratio. I had two and I put the first one in my 71 340 duster with 28" tires and a 3.23. gear, made for a really nice street car.
 
What ratio is second gear in the non OD? Is it an early 833 converted to a splined output ?
I believe it's early A body stuff, like 63 to 66 both slant 6 and 273. 309 first, regular 2nd unlike an OD.
 
That's not going to be a good combo with that trans, the rpm drop from 1st to 2nd with that 3.09 first gear will be tough, and if its synchronized, its gonna be REAL tough
 
That's not going to be a good combo with that trans, the rpm drop from 1st to 2nd with that 3.09 first gear will be tough, and if its synchronized, its gonna be REAL tough
Everyone told me that as well but it ran fine. A stroker will barely notice it.
OP wants the low ratio for parking lot cruising and 1st gear driveability more than racing . I think he is on the right track .
 
I tried it myself with a fully streetable 833 with the 3.09 gear, on slicks and had a excellent clutch (Mcloud soft lock) and the rpm drop made the shift from 1st to 2nd difficult
 
I tried it myself with a fully streetable 833 with the 3.09 gear, on slicks and had a excellent clutch (Mcloud soft lock) and the rpm drop made the shift from 1st to 2nd difficult
You are right, its hard to shift when there is such a big drop, heavy flywheel/pressure plate but Yr helped me work through that with slick shifting the trans. It's still very streetable when you leave the synchros in and just grind every other tooth off them as well.
 
I know there are quite a few late model cars doing this and I may be one of the first to be doing it and compromising the way I am but I like a challenge. After years of bracket racing an automatic a long time ago I am getting back into it and I needed a new challenge.
 
You are right, its hard to shift when there is such a big drop, heavy flywheel/pressure plate but Yr helped me work through that with slick shifting the trans. It's still very streetable when you leave the synchros in and just grind every other tooth off them as well.

"It's still very streetable when you leave the synchros in and just grind every other tooth off them as well."
ON the STREET;
Yes it is and shifts like lightning at up to 7200, the highest I have tried. The ratios of 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00 make an awesome streeter with the right gear that hits the power peak at or near 60 mph, at the top of Second gear.
If you choose to, you can easily overpower the brass and slam it! But it will shift normally for the rest of the time. I only cut Second and sometimes Third. I run mine with 3.55s for a starter gear of
3.09 x 3.55=10.97 which is very similar to
2.66 x 4.10 =10.91
Then I just overspeed First a lil before yanking on the stick. With 400 plus horsepower, it doesn't seem to notice.
 
I'm pretty sure @j par runs drag radials on his 4-speed Duster. I'm sure he will chime in with his thoughts.
 
I'm pretty sure @j par runs drag radials on his 4-speed Duster. I'm sure he will chime in with his thoughts.
I think I've done it all three ways with my Duster. When I was drag racing on a regular basis I used full slicks and 4-in skinnies in the front. But unfortunately that was before I had any experience with the clutch tamer.. I never use the slicks on the street I always had a separate set of rims and tires was just street tires.. those were absolutely no fun on the street as it was like being on an ice skating ring... Especially with the 410 gears.. when I switch to 355 and a friendlier cam it was much better on the street but the drag radios made it the most enjoyable... I went with the nitto 555 they were at least $100 I want to say each cheaper and the jury was completely split on which one was better than the Mickey Thompsons...
Personally I'd like to see the hundred shots sprayed on second gear with the overdrive transmission... That should cover about 3/4 of the quarter mile...
Anyways I'm watching with curiosity I hope everything turns out fun...
 
Last edited:
Oh yeah 2019 at the Mopar Nationals for speed class I did make it to the final four... Out of the 16 plus cars...
If you go it might inspire me...2022??...
DSC02345.JPG

Looks like JPar for the win...
 
Oh yeah 2019 at the Mopar Nationals for speed class I did make it to the final four... Out of the 16 plus cars...
If you go it might inspire me...2022??...
View attachment 1715810632
Looks like JPar for the win...
That is the plan my man!, and I will be easy on the nitrous until I can build my R block. The plan is to use it progressively and run it out the back door. A guy I know won the class this year, it was pretty cool and well deserved.
 
I figure if I can't hook it with these then I got other issues. We also measured the car for square and the body/frame and even the wheel wells were dead on surprisingly, but the pass side leaf needed to go back 1/4". Things are right on the money now.
20211025_171030.jpg
20211025_171100.jpg
 
I must say the Mopar Nationals is a special race to be at from the racers point of view... Obviously the four-speed class is one of the funnest to watch and coming back down the return lane by the stands people are cheering you on giving you the thumbs up and waving... You kind of feel appreciated for all your time and effort and money and this is a crowd full of real Mopar fans...
 
My '66 Charger with the 499/4-speed was on a 275-60-15 M&H DOT radial for several years. I actually wore out a couple of sets. Launching it was tricky compared to a bias IMO. You had to find a low enough RPM where it would not dead hook or blow the tires off. Dead hooking is hard on drive line components and tires. Usually the term is "black tracking" where you have a little extra wheel speed yet still totally under control. I call that launching "4-speed straight" if you get my drift.
 
My '66 Charger with the 499/4-speed was on a 275-60-15 M&H DOT radial for several years. I actually wore out a couple of sets. Launching it was tricky compared to a bias IMO. You had to find a low enough RPM where it would not dead hook or blow the tires off. Dead hooking is hard on drive line components and tires. Usually the term is "black tracking" where you have a little extra wheel speed yet still totally under control. I call that launching "4-speed straight" if you get my drift.
This is where the clutch tamer becomes a bit of a game changer...
 
-
Back
Top