Drive shaft

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DavidW

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Can anybody tell me what drive shafts work for a 1968 383 4 speed and a 8 3/4 rear end?
 
We need more info.
Car model, what 4 spd trans, has rear end been relocated,
 
DavidW said:
OEM trans/bell and rear end
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My friend, we are all trying to help but need some basic info and oem does not answer one of the most important questions , model. As Daves69 pointed out there is /might be a diference between baracuda, dart, and valiant. Also what output yoke are you using large or small u-joints. What input yoke to rear etc.

If you go to mymopar.com and look for the parts book for your car you might just get a part number and length.
 
Also what wheel base? Mine is 110 not 108 that will mess you up also. When in doubt measure TWICE!
 
These driveshaft threads always baffle me with the tables and charts. I had my /6 shaft shortened when I put in the 8 3/4. Then I got a new shaft made up when I swapped in the 408/727.
Both times I just shoved the slip yoke full forward, measured center to center on the front and rear yokes/U joints (with weight of the car on the rear suspension) and told the driveline guy exactly how I got my measurement. He would then deduct an inch and the driveshafts were both perfect.
But then again, I wasn't looking for a "stock" solution........
 
Had mine made up also actually seemed easier. Around 250 or so.
 
Dusterdenovo said:
These driveshaft threads always baffle me with the tables and charts. I had my /6 shaft shortened when I put in the 8 3/4. Then I got a new shaft made up when I swapped in the 408/727.
Both times I just shoved the slip yoke full forward, measured center to center on the front and rear yokes/U joints (with weight of the car on the rear suspension) and told the driveline guy exactly how I got my measurement. He would then deduct an inch and the driveshafts were both perfect.
But then again, I wasn't looking for a "stock" solution........
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That makes a lot of sense. I just installed an 8 3/4 rear on my 67 cuda. It had the 7 1/4.
More than likely my current drive shaft is longer than it should be so it sounds like I just need to get it cut down to length, and then adapt the rear u joint to the new 8 3/4.
Any idea on cost to get a drive shaft cut and welded? Do they balance it as well?
 
ChuckDock said:
More than likely my current drive shaft is longer than it should be so it sounds like I just need to get it cut down to length, and then adapt the rear u joint to the new 8 3/4.
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Assuming your drive shaft has the rubber insulator (one end of shaft is smaller dia than the other and fits inside one another, NOT with a slip like on some 4X4s) I personally would not cut it down. I would just order a new drive shaft from one of the online manufacturers. price is not going to be significantly more expensive and it will give you piece of mind.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Assuming your drive shaft has the rubber insulator (one end of shaft is smaller dia than the other and fits inside one another, NOT with a slip like on some 4X4s) I personally would not cut it down. I would just order a new drive shaft from one of the online manufacturers. price is not going to be significantly more expensive and it will give you piece of mind.
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I will have to look. Good to know as well, and sounds like a good idea to me. Thanks!
 
I forgot to mention they can also put what ever yoke ends on you need
 
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