Drivers Side Floor Pan Replacement

[Minercar]

So, I’m about to do some major surgery (for me) on my 67 Barracuda Vert and any advice or pointers would be greatly appreciated. It seems when I parked the car in my folk’s farm machine shed for ten years that the drivers side floor (front and rear) suffered some severe rust rot. I’ve acquired a replacement pan through Summit and am going to attempt to replace it myself. A few questions come to mind right from the start. Should I remove the torque box or cut around it? Do I need to tie or brace the door opening prior to removing the floor? What is the best way to match the removal and replacement? Has anybody documented (with pictures) this rather invasive procedure (removal and replacement) and if so, would they be willing to share? I’ve currently removed everything from the car except the rear axle and convertible top which is retracted into the boot. Thanks in advance.

Mark

 

[Professor Fate]

You will need to brace the livin' bejeezus out of it- with no solid top to it, there is NO structure holding it together other than the rocker panels and a rusted out floor.
Since it's already rotted, first thing I would do is get it up on jackstands (or hoist, if available). Measure and remeasure all your frame reference points to make sure it's square and true- adjust and shim your support points to get it in spec. Most converts at this stage of their life aren't true anymore even without rust damage. Make darn sure the frame rails are solid and not rotted ANYWHERE at this point. Weld in some X braces in the door openings. An X brace in the passenger compartment would be nice, but will severely limit your access putting in a complete floor pan, which it sounds like you're doing. If you're doing partial pans, access will be a bit easier.
Some may disagree with me, but with a convertible I would install your frame connectors now, while the frame is true- if your plans include them. Anything you can do to stiffen up the unibody structure before you start cutting will save you grief in the long run. The last thing you want to end up with is a swayback convertible when you're done.
And buy a mittful of good spot weld cutters.
Good luck with the project!

 

[Inertia]

It looks like frame rails are in my cars future...

 

[Garethw]

Are you just doing the front left section? If so, I’m not sure you’d need a ton of bracing. I’d trim up the new piece to the size you need it, then outline that onto the existing floor with a sharpie and cut a half inch inside the lines. Such that the new piece will then overlap the old floor by a half inch. Use a flange tool around the sides of the new piece so that it sets in the existing floor, then weld it up along the seem. The overlap will make it easier to weld. Just my opinion and how I would do it.

 

[Garethw]

Oh, and I would not remove the torque box unless it’s rusted out too. Just remove the spot welds from the top to separate the old floor. Just mark it’s location on the new floor so you can drill a few holes to spot weld it back together. For full disclosure, I am not a body man expert

 

[Garethw]

Reread your original post and see that you are doing the whole left side. Wouldn’t hurt to add a brace from the top door hinge to the latch. You can make that so it bolts on at both sides. This assumes you will be removing the driver door.

 

[sireland67]

Convertible,
I would put frame connectors on it, leave the doors aligned and on the car.
Cut the floor out with the doors closed, and put the new floor in, not that difficult, but time consuming.

 

[Garethw]

Frame connectors definitely a good idea. Probably good to install before cutting the floor out. Though I find it easier to weld in the front connection with the a floor out.

 

[Sdriche]

About to do the same thing on my 68 Dart convert so this is very helpful.

 

[cosgig]

Not a convertible, and not an A body, but I had to replace a section of the torsion bar crossmember as well as the floor pan. No bracing at all, just supported from underneath. I sourced the end piece of the crossmember from an original car, gusseted the inside and laid a thicker piece behind it at the rocker. It all went together very nicely, and I haven’t had a problem since. I drilled and cleaned the original pan out and cleaned the flanges for plug welding.