Driving without throttle linkage

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hotrod swinger

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I know this is not advisable, I’m not planning on doing this long term, it’s a stop gap.

The two barrel 225/904 combo in a car I bought didn’t come with any of the throttle linkages. I am going to either have to fabricate something or find replacement parts, one of which I’ll get to eventually.

In the meantime, I want to drive the car for just a few short drives this summer, to a local meet, my friends shop, etc.

Can I get away with wiring the throttle lever back on the transmission temporarily, either the whole way or half way, again just for now, definitely will not be a permanent solution.

The transmission was rebuilt with a stage 2 shift kit, hasn’t been driven.

How much damage can be done?
 
I know this is not advisable, I’m not planning on doing this long term, it’s a stop gap.

The two barrel 225/904 combo in a car I bought didn’t come with any of the throttle linkages. I am going to either have to fabricate something or find replacement parts, one of which I’ll get to eventually.

In the meantime, I want to drive the car for just a few short drives this summer, to a local meet, my friends shop, etc.

Can I get away with wiring the throttle lever back on the transmission temporarily, either the whole way or half way, again just for now, definitely will not be a permanent solution.

The transmission was rebuilt with a stage 2 shift kit, hasn’t been driven.

How much damage can be done?
Driving without the kickdown linkage will damage the transmission so why do it? Just get an aftermarket cable setup like a Lokar and do it right. Impressing your friends could come at a high cost of a transmission rebuild. Your call.
 
Driving without the kickdown linkage will damage the transmission so why do it? Just get an aftermarket cable setup like a Lokar and do it right. Impressing your friends could come at a high cost of a transmission rebuild. Your call.

Yes, and doing burnouts and donuts all day long destroys your tires and wears down your brakes and wheel bearings, but I’ve done that, so I guess I don’t really see your point.
 
IIRC there is a position that if it is tied down there, will be ok for temporary.

I dont recall if it is forward or backwards

THAT BEING SAID...

DO THE RIGHT THING AND DONT CREATE NEW PROBLEMS FOR YOURSELF.
 
I’m not concerned about a little bit of wear, I thought that short trips with a fixed but high throttle pressure wouldn’t be a big deal, that’s the question I’m asking.
 
Hahaha, it will be okay as long as you don't do any power shifting. Say you floor it and wind it out and shift it manually...BAD...cuz the trans will shift soft and SLIP. Unless you let off the gas during the shift.. And that's MY opinion man...DEAL WITH IT...hahaha
 
I know this is not advisable, I’m not planning on doing this long term, it’s a stop gap.

The two barrel 225/904 combo in a car I bought didn’t come with any of the throttle linkages. I am going to either have to fabricate something or find replacement parts, one of which I’ll get to eventually.

In the meantime, I want to drive the car for just a few short drives this summer, to a local meet, my friends shop, etc.

Can I get away with wiring the throttle lever back on the transmission temporarily, either the whole way or half way, again just for now, definitely will not be a permanent solution.

The transmission was rebuilt with a stage 2 shift kit, hasn’t been driven.

How much damage can be done?
I had a Coronet that someone threw a 361 in and it was missing some of the linkage. I wired it halfway open and drove it easy. It worked OK for as long as I owned it.
 
It's so easy to set up I can't understand why you'd want to jerry rig it, even temporarily. You need a Bouchillon or Lokar kickdown cable kit, a V8 throttle cable, and an angle bracket from the hardware store or a light metal bar you can bend to fit, to hold them in place. About an hour all told.
 
I did exactly what you are contemplating.
I zip-tied the TV lever all the way back and road-tested it.
At light throttle, it shifted too hard.
I backed off the tie-back until at half-throttle it felt decent.
I drove it like that for thousands of miles. Thousands and thousands.
Your results may vary; my trans also had a Stage-2 shift kit (and a 2800 stall) behind a low-compression 4bbl 318. Part of installing this kit includes cranking up the line-pressure just a lil.
I would do it and not loose any sleep over it.

That mechanism does exactly ONE thing; it increases the Line-Pressure in response to throttle-opening.
This produces TWO results, namely;
1) the increased line-pressure increases the holding power of the various clutches and bands.
2) it suppresses the shift-command from the governor, and the result of that is a higher upshift rpm in "auto" mode.

If you tie that lever ALL the way back, you can do whatever you want with the throttle.
If you do not tie it back at all, you need to take it easy on the LOAD. This has nothing to do with rpm. You can rev the engine until it blows up. But you cannot floor it off the line. If you feel the clutchs slip, that's too much LOAD, so back off. And you better not attempt to pass anyone on the hiway. If you follow this rule, clutch-wear will be minimal.
If you tie it back about half-way between all the way back, and from where you first feel resistance to movement, you should be just fine. However, the 1-2 shift may be a lil late coming, and there is nothing you can do about it except wait.
For extra insurance, I ran a slightly deeper pan, with a slightly increased quantity of fluid.
I loved that 2800TC
 
Yes, and doing burnouts and donuts all day long destroys your tires and wears down your brakes and wheel bearings, but I’ve done that, so I guess I don’t really see your point.
Then why the **** even come on here and ask for advice about it? You don't know about something, so you asked, which makes you SMART, then you go AGAINST the good advice which makes you NOT SMART. If you're mind is made up, just do whatever the hell you want and leave us alone.
 
Then why the **** even come on here and ask for advice about it? You don't know about something, so you asked, which makes you SMART, then you go AGAINST the good advice which makes you NOT SMART. If you're mind is made up, just do whatever the hell you want and leave us alone.

lol, I didn’t realize this was your own little private safe space, guess I better be more careful next time.
 
lol, I didn’t realize this was your own little private safe space, guess I better be more careful next time.
It's not. Far from it. But all you're wanting is people to agree with you even if you're wrong. I'm not a yes man. But, it's your car and your choice. I wish you luck.
 
And what about shifting, would it be smart for me to control my shifts as well while I have this setup or let them happen automatically?
Yes, and doing burnouts and donuts all day long destroys your tires and wears down your brakes and wheel bearings, but I’ve done that, so I guess I don’t really see your point.

You gotta cut Crusty some slack, he gets moody like that one in a while. Maybe it's his time of the month, IDK.
I used to do that all the time; I mean why build a 400 hp car to idle it in your driveway all the time...... My car gets sideways every time it leaves my property, it drifts soooo nice. And does awesome figure-eights and donuts. In fact, sometimes I start it up just to go do a few of those out on the main street of our sleepy little town. I mean let's be honest, if a guy doesn't pull a few stunts once in a while, it's like not having sex for way to long.
anyway;

getting back to my 318 combo.
This 68 Barracuda was my DD for many years, cuz we were fairly poor in those years. I used to put over 12,000 miles a year on it.
Every fall, the 367 came out, and I swapped in a 318 4bbl. Then in spring, it went the other way. Sometimes the winter motor had a manual trans, sometimes an automatic, and the rear gear was a crapshoot as to what would be in it. The 367 was always a manual trans. and usually had 3.55s in it, and an overdrive.
In the beginning, the 318 had an A904, but later, I installed an A998 with the wider ratios, to get the lower first gear.
The 318 was a pure stock, freshened longblock with nothing but a 4bbl, and the TTI headers from the 367 with it's 3" full-length dual cannons.
Every winter I freshened the 367, and every summer I prepped the trans that I was gonna install in Fall. This went on for 6 winter; until one day my son made me an offer on the 318/A998 and 2800TC that I just couldn't refuse. So I installed it in his 84 D100.
Now; My Davy-boy drives like me, and that D100 spent as much time going sideways and being abused, as if I would have been driving it.
Hang on a sec:
Yes,
with the TV tied back half-way, exactly as it had been in the Barracuda.
I had tuned the governor, and reset the shiftsplits for a late 1-2 shift, and an early 2-3 shift. Thus at WOT, it hit Drive at about 60/65 mph. But it stayed in First until 5000/5200.
We put skinny 275BFGs on the back, and you know, BFGs don't have any off-the-line stick to them, but I did have to deal with the crazy wheelhop.
So,
in my case,
thru all of this,
the trans NEVER showed any signs of distress, and
I'll guess it now has over 80,000 miles on it, since last being freshened, and I myself put some 20,000 on it prior to that, as my trans of choice for winter.
Because the trans had a 2800stall, and the truck had 3.55s, and the 2.74 low-gear in it, the 318 had plenty of torque-multiplication and plenty of take-off power; so then, the BIG Thermoquad could be staged a lil later, when the primaries began to run out of juice.
Remember what I said about LOAD?
Behind your 225, the trans does not know anything about rpm. It only knows load. But your 225 does not make 318 power, nor did you mention a hi-stall. So, IMHO, I think, with the TV tied all the way back, you could chain your car to a big old tree, put the trans in MANUAL LOW to relieve the rear sprag, get the tires spinning, and then put a brick on the gas pedal and go for coffee. I think the tires will blow first, then the engine, but the trans, as long as the cooler works, will be just dandy fine.
BTW;
My Barracuda rad has no cooler; and I ran no aux cooler, since the combo was for winter-only. I just looped the two fittings together. I don't suggest that you do this. I'm jus saying that's what I did
Finally; others can say what they want. I'm telling you what I already did. And I offered OPINIONS as I saw fit, based on my experience, and whenever I did that, I told you that it was an opinion.
But here's the thing. Me and 904s are old friends. I suppose I could reassemble the main case blindfolded. And I could probably do a pretty good job of the valvebody as well. The point is that I'm not scared to actually try stuff, cuz if it breaks, I just take it apart and try again.

That linkage you are contemplating to omit, is just a device to REDUCE the harshness of the shifts when operating at part throttle, and to vary the shift-timing in accordance of your mood. In many to most cases, the first 50% of throttle travel does NOTHING at all on the linkage, as the pin just slides back and forth in the slot of the adjusting rod. That means that during perhaps 90%(depending on your mood) of the time, your trans is already operating as if the KD lever was not even there..................................

IIRC Sooke is in BC Canada. You're practically my neighbor, lol.
Listen up, I'll make you this deal;
Put an aux cooler on it, and a deep pan, then tie the lever back as far as you can stand the harshness of the shifts; then do whatever you want, consistent with the useage you describe in Post #1. If you can burn it out, over the rest of this summer, I'll recondition it at no charge, just pay the shipping. Badaboom!
Com'on just drive it!
 
I have three Mopars currently running. They all shift exactly when I want them to. "How is that?", you say. I installed manual valve bodies in all of them and threw all the kickdown linkage in a bucket. I constantly see questions on here from people who are unhappy with their shift points; part throttle, full throttle, 1-2, 2-3, linkage issues, etc. The solution was simple for me.
 
I was considering manual valve body as well. I have a floor shifter. But then I read in a couple of threads on this site that MVB even needs throttle linkage.
 
I have three Mopars currently running. They all shift exactly when I want them to. "How is that?", you say. I installed manual valve bodies in all of them and threw all the kickdown linkage in a bucket. I constantly see questions on here from people who are unhappy with their shift points; part throttle, full throttle, 1-2, 2-3, linkage issues, etc. The solution was simple for me.
Exactly, 100 percent control 100 percent of the time !!
 
I was considering manual valve body as well. I have a floor shifter. But then I read in a couple of threads on this site that MVB even needs throttle linkage.
None of the mvb that I am aware of use throttle pressure linkage. I did read on here someone saying that one of the shift kits that converts to manual operation requires it.
 
Just wanted to update everyone that after carefully considering all of the thoughtful advice received I installed a lokar kickdown cable.
 
Related question/ been a while since I have been inside of one
On a 727 that needs overhauled because it was run with kickdown disconnected, what usually "goes first" within? How "bad" of a rebuild would be needed?
Basically clutches steels and seals or does it tear something else up as well?

My son just bought back an old truck of mine that my cousin did "no favors" to. One of the first things we saw upon opening up the hood was the link from the carb to the bell crank laying on the manifold. Rumor has it, he had his dad did head gaskets on it a few years ago. I'm guessing it's been run like that since the head gasket job. Idiots.
My son bought it back to hopefully harvest the motor and trans for another project he is working on. But it appears we will be tearing the trans apart before it goes in.
 
First to go is third gear, and reverse along with it. Then the friction material clogs the filter and the forward clutch goes.
 
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