Drum brakes

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A body fever

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I have a 70 dart drums all the way around. The front ones shake some if you stab the pedal . Ive noticed if you turn tire by hand it feel tight then loose . Tap them with a hammer and all is good . So are the drums bad .I dont feel any pulsing when applying brakes no noises either. Any suggestions. Later I will do wilwood front kit for drum spindle. Thanks
 
Sounds like you have a broken spring and a slightly warped drum. If you are getting wilwood brakes for drum spindles you must have 9 inch drum brakes. The wilwood brakes for those spindles are lightweight drag race brakes. Big bolt pattern. Not for street use if I recall. I have them .

There is a company making a kit for the small bolt pattern 10 inch drum spindles. For small and big bolt pattern wheels using one piece street rotors. They use the factory style Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers . do a search on the web
 
The front ones shake some if you stab the pedal
I assume that is while driving, this could be an alignment or work front end component issue


Ive noticed if you turn tire by hand it feel tight then loose

typical when adjusted and spun there will be a slight scrape scrape sound, I have never had a drum that was turned perfectly round. If adjusted a little more tight you would feel a slight drag too

Tap them with a hammer and all is good
suggests that some hardware is not releasing properly, dirt, lack of proper lubrication, groves in the backing plate perches the shoes ride on.


I dont feel any pulsing when applying brakes no noises either
this further suggests the suspension as the cause of the shake


Later I will do wilwood front kit for drum spindle
OR just swap out the front hardware for OEM disk 72 and older, 4 piston KH and SBP or 73 up, single piston and BBP. No problem getting spare parts that way.


If you are getting wilwood brakes for drum spindles you must have 9 inch drum brakes

They have kits for 9" and 10" drum spindles and OEM disk spindles (I would swap out to 10" spindles or disk spindles if I had 9", the 10"/disk are stouter)



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I just had front end double checked and aligned . The think i dont like about the kits I've found they want you to use a sleeve on ball joint . Then the rotors or calipers aren't off the shelf items . Then if I change control arms out buy the rotors and calipers that's off the shelf im same as wilwood . I have a set of 73 spindles I've had put up . So I guess it's a toss up only advantages to wilwood is only change is putting there rotor on and adding their calipers to stock spindles
 
If you inspect the outside of the drums closely, you will see there is a minimum spec cast into the drums. You need to have the drums measured to see if there is room enough to have them machined and if there is, get them turned back to true. The drums will need to be separated from the hubs in order to be turned accurately, although people have done it with the hubs attached, but that's not the most accurate way. Besides all that, if the drums need to be replaced, they must be separated from the hubs anyway.
 
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The kit I mentioned above for 10 inch drum spindles use . Mustang replacement Kelsey hayes 4 piston steel calipers you can order from any auto parts supplier. also one piece steel rotors.
 
Sounds like you have a broken spring and a slightly warped drum. If you are getting wilwood brakes for drum spindles you must have 9 inch drum brakes. The wilwood brakes for those spindles are lightweight drag race brakes. Big bolt pattern. Not for street use if I recall. I have them .

There is a company making a kit for the small bolt pattern 10 inch drum spindles. For small and big bolt pattern wheels using one piece street rotors. They use the factory style Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers . do a search on the web
Im gonna do a search i like that idea
 
You likely need the front drums "turned" or renewed.

They are out of true, which often happens, especially if overheated a few times.
If you need new drums cuz they are oversized, BE AWARE THE HUBS CAN BE DAMAGED IF REMOVING DRUMS INCORRECTLY.

There are far, far more reasonably priced kits for front brakes, try DrDiff for best results. He know what he's talking about.

Good luck (machine the drums!)
 
If you inspect the outside of the drums closely, you will see there is a minimum spec cast into the drums. You need to have the drums measured to see if there is room enough to have them machined and if there is, get them turned back to true. The drums will need to be separated from the hubs in order to be turned accurately, although people have done it with the hubs attached, but that's not the most accurate way. Besides all that, if the drums need to be replaced, they must be separated from the hubs anyway.

Respectfully disagree RRR .

I have always turned the drum on the hub, even new drums, machine with lugs tight,

I have found many "new replacement" drums to be " un-true ", needing machining.
 
Respectfully disagree RRR .

I have always turned the drum on the hub, even new drums, machine with lugs tight,

I have found many "new replacement" drums to be " un-true ", needing machining.
I turn every new drum and rotor I buy.
 
Wheel cylinder usually cause a pull to one side, by either not applying cuz it's seized, or it's leaked fluid which changes the friction surface to different than brake on the opposite side.
Yeah, you're probably right but just pointing out more things he could check.
 
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