Dual 1bbl intake

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69DARTS

69DARTS

69 Darts Rule
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This mite go on my 63 dart /6
What did u guys do about the linkage
Off the firewall to make this set up work .
Pics would help thank u.

20180513_183545.jpg


20180513_183550.jpg
 
hahaha, I bought one of those like 40 years ago. I have never mounted it up. I dont know where all the linkage is anymore. When you figure it out let me know.
 
I am doing that EXACT same thing for a 1964 Dart, except with Carter 1BBL's. What I have done is made a copy of the throttle rod (the rod which connects the pedal to carby) with the 90* bent end that fits into that green plastic grommet, and the welded-on L-shaped bracket which connects to the kick down rod and throttle return spring. I just made it shorter so the pedal controls the rear carby, the front carby is connected to rear carby by the linkages on the manifold. Easy to do, I just measured the difference in dimension from the where it fits into the grommet (standard) and where the rear carby grommet now is, and made the new bracket shorter by that dimension. Photo of my set up, unfortunately doesn't show the bracket. Currently making linkages to synchronise the two automatic chokes...

IMAG2564.jpg
 
In the old Offenhauser Kit the linkage rod that is mounted to the manifold that is actuating the carbs would have extended back toward the firewall more and had another lever w/ball stud on it lining up with an added lever w/ball stud attached to the (trimmed down) foot pedal rod and joined by an adjustable linkage rod like you made to actuate the carbs.
 
Motopsycho said:
This mite go on my 63 dart /6
What did u guys do about the linkage
Off the firewall to make this set up work .
Pics would help thank u.

View attachment 1715179506

View attachment 1715179509
Click to expand...

OK, now that I've had a chance to take a couple of photos... Measure the distance between (any) two identical points on your twin carbies (as shown in first photo) and DIVIDE THAT DIMENSION BY TWO (i.e. HALF). The result is the distance that the rear carby is from its original (central) location. Then, cut the throttle bracket (shown in second picture) in the approximate location shown with arrow, shorten it by the required dimension, weld it back together...

IMAG2745_A.jpg

IMAG2743_A.jpg
 
Where do live? Please leave the hood open. I’ll trade ya my one carter and I take for that. Lol.

I’ll do all the work. Even put a new gasket on it.

That’s pretty sexy though. Never seen that setup. Make that 170 run any better???
 
Eddie 2 questions do you have a picture of what you did to make them work can we get a picture without the rear air cleaner on to see what you did and number to where did you get your decals for your air cleaners your response is appreciated thank you
 
Nigel Hely said:
I am doing that EXACT same thing for a 1964 Dart, except with Carter 1BBL's. What I have done is made a copy of the throttle rod (the rod which connects the pedal to carby) with the 90* bent end that fits into that green plastic grommet, and the welded-on L-shaped bracket which connects to the kick down rod and throttle return spring. I just made it shorter so the pedal controls the rear carby, the front carby is connected to rear carby by the linkages on the manifold. Easy to do, I just measured the difference in dimension from the where it fits into the grommet (standard) and where the rear carby grommet now is, and made the new bracket shorter by that dimension. Photo of my set up, unfortunately doesn't show the bracket. Currently making linkages to synchronise the two automatic chokes...

View attachment 1715184116
Click to expand...
looks great I'm going that route first to stabilize the engine. Then slowly gathering more parts to turbo mine ....but do you really want the fuel filter directly over that hot exhaust manifold? I had to move mine over on the other side of the engine to help heatsoak
 
66Dvert said:
looks great I'm going that route first to stabilize the engine. Then slowly gathering more parts to turbo mine ....but do you really want the fuel filter directly over that hot exhaust manifold? I had to move mine over on the other side of the engine to help heatsoak
Click to expand...

You are quite right, that will probably not be the end result. It is in that position because it will connect to the stock fuel lines without modifications. Once it's all up-and-running and sorted, I'll make something better. Just don't want to go chopping things up for the sake of experiments...
 
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