Dual position front spring hanger

[burdar]

How critical is it to tighten the front spring eye bolt with weight on the suspension? Here's why I ask...

The Dr Diff 1/2" spring relocation kit uses a front spring hanger with 2 mounting bolt holes on it. The lower hole is for stock ride height and the upper hole is to lower the car. The spring eye bolt that is supplied does NOT have a hex head that you can get a standard wrench on. The head of the bolt is tapered and has a provision for an allen wrench. When the front spring hanger is mounted to the body, the tapered eye bolt is pressed up against the frame.

If you are using the lower position, the eye bolt lines up with a hole in the frame that goes all the way through. This lets you put an allen wrench through the frame and into the bolt...so you can tighten it up. However, if you want to use the upper position, there is no way to hold the bolt from spinning as you try to tighten it....unless you drill another hole all the way through the frame in that location. The only way to tighten the front eye bolt is to tighten it before you bolt the front hanger to the car. Getting the spring and hanger in the correct position would just be a guess.

It would be nice if the threaded end of the bolt would have an allen wrench provision. Then it would be easy. Looking for ideas.

 

[mopowers]

What front bushing material is it? Rubber, poly, aluminum?

 

[Dana67Dart]

IMHO

Due to the restricted access.

If you tightened the bracket in the stock ride height then remove the bracket from the car, measure the angle to the spring, remove it from the spring and install it in the other mounting hole, align it to the spring at the same angle and tighten, then reinstall in the body.


You would be good

 

[burdar]

The front eye bushing is rubber.

 

[el5dart]

you could look online for a bolt that is already broached with the allen hex. or have yours broached by a machine shop. if you have a drill press you could possibly broach it yourself

 

[burdar]

you could look online for a bolt that is already broached with the allen hex. or have yours broached by a machine shop. if you have a drill press you could possibly broach it yourself

I thought about that. My father-in-law has a lathe but doesn't have the broaching tool to do it. I guess I could tack weld the bolt head to the spring hanger. That would hold it in place.

 

[el5dart]

I thought about that. My father-in-law has a lathe but doesn't have the broaching tool to do it. I guess I could tack weld the bolt head to the spring hanger. That would hold it in place.

a lathe would be even better! a single broach shouldn’t be terribly expensive. all you need is a drill bit and the broach.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Is there any reason you could not use a factory bolt?

 

[burdar]

The bolt head and the perch hole are tapered. The bolt head basically sits flush with the side of the perch. When bolted to the body, the perch is against the frame. I can post a picture of it once it's off.

I'm leaning towards just drilling a hole through the frame. All it needs is a hole just slightly larger than the allen wrench. It would be the quickest solution and it wouldn't cost anything. Then I can get the complete interior in it and a full tank of gas, then tighten the bolt.

 

[Dana67Dart]

. All it needs is a hole just slightly larger than the allen wrench

I don't think anything is inside the frame rail there but be sure to check first.

And I found some photos that explains why the stock bolt will not work.

 

[Dana67Dart]

And I found some photos that explains why the stock bolt will not work.

Jusr thought of a modification...


Weld a thickening plate to the outside of the offset bracket between the frame rail and thread the 2 holes. (obviously you would have to make the existing holes smaller first)
Then the bolts could be inserted from the outside. Drill the bolt heads for wire locks and your good.