Durango Brakes Won't Bleed

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HTMLmopars

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Bought an 01 Durango RT a while back. It's rough, but it was cheap. We had to replace the front calipers because one locked up, basically had simple project turn into a super long, super painful project, but it's mostly unrelated. After we did the front brakes, the pedal was never really back, it worked but had way to much travel. Finally got around to fixing the pedal, replaced the back brake cylinders and all the hardware back there. Bled and bled and bled. No pedal. Replaced the master cylinder. Bench bled, and then bled and bled and bled. No pedal. The car has rear abs only, not all wheel abs as far as we can tell. We've put something like a gallon of fluid through this and it just wont bleed. Any ideas?
 
68Valiant225 said:
Bought an 01 Durango RT a while back. It's rough, but it was cheap. We had to replace the front calipers because one locked up, basically had simple project turn into a super long, super painful project, but it's mostly unrelated. After we did the front brakes, the pedal was never really back, it worked but had way to much travel. Finally got around to fixing the pedal, replaced the back brake cylinders and all the hardware back there. Bled and bled and bled. No pedal. Replaced the master cylinder. Bench bled, and then bled and bled and bled. No pedal. The car has rear abs only, not all wheel abs as far as we can tell. We've put something like a gallon of fluid through this and it just wont bleed. Any ideas?
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I know it sounds weird but.
Have you tried bleeding the brakes with the engine running?
 
Are you absolutely certain the master is pumping? That is what are you using to bleed, pumping the master, or a vacuum or a pressure device? Are you certain the shoes are adjusted tight enough?
 
Jadaharabi said:
I know it sounds weird but.
Have you tried bleeding the brakes with the engine running?
Click to expand...
We haven't; is there a reason why bleeding with the engine on is better?

67Dart273 said:
Are you absolutely certain the master is pumping? That is what are you using to bleed, pumping the master, or a vacuum or a pressure device? Are you certain the shoes are adjusted tight enough?
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We're just pumping the master to bleed. The rear shoes were adjusted so that the drum would slide over, but only barely.
 
That shows the master is pumping. I would tighten up the rear shoes. A LOT. Some guys advocate applying the parking brake during bleeding, I have never tried that. Are you getting fluid out the fronts?
 
Getting fluid through all the bleeders. I was just discussing with my dad, apparently the passenger rear shoe could be expanded more. The driver's side the drum brushes the shoe as you put it on, we can try and expand it a bit more. Maybe attempt the parking brake trick too
 
I was told to do it with the engine running has something to do with the computer. I have not tried it on mine because now it won't start. Lol.
 
I bought my wife a new Loaded 99 4x4 Nice vehicle and it went through the same locked caliper issue after about 3-4 years. It Flat locked up at my mother in-laws apartment. I replaced both calipers, rotors and pads in the parking lot as it got so hot on failure.

Got it home With a bad pedal and was able to get good bleed while pointing down Hill on our steep driveway. Also changed the upper BJ’s at the time. All good after that! Well At least till the second water pump blew coolant all over our new houses garage. It was traded quickly afterwards for a Hemi Jeep GC!
 
I have seen and dealt with these issues before. Sometimes it helps to have the vehicle positioned where the master Cylinder points downhill. I had a Volvo kick my *** in the 80’s because of this and not reading the damn manual. It looked real weird having that car on the lift pointed to the ground but it was what it took to bleed it out!
 
There's a correct procedure for everything. Have you read the factory service manual? Don't assume it bleeds normally.
 
RustyRatRod said:
There's a correct procedure for everything. Have you read the factory service manual? Don't assume it bleeds normally.
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Yeah pretty bad when One assumes things. Changed countless masters on many vehicles over the years and had all the best tools and pressure bleeder! Did not matter on that damn Volvo. Car had to be at Near 45 degrees tilt to bleed. Will never forget and really had the same kinda issue with the 99 Durango. Steep drive helped me!
 
68Valiant225 said:
Bought an 01 Durango RT a while back. It's rough, but it was cheap. We had to replace the front calipers because one locked up, basically had simple project turn into a super long, super painful project, but it's mostly unrelated. After we did the front brakes, the pedal was never really back, it worked but had way to much travel. Finally got around to fixing the pedal, replaced the back brake cylinders and all the hardware back there. Bled and bled and bled. No pedal. Replaced the master cylinder. Bench bled, and then bled and bled and bled. No pedal. The car has rear abs only, not all wheel abs as far as we can tell. We've put something like a gallon of fluid through this and it just wont bleed. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Does it have abs on the front or rear? Had a similar issue with a late model Jeep. Air was getting stuck in the ABS module. Fought it for a long time before I finally got it figured out. Also had a 97 dakota, which I imagine is similar to your 99 Durango, but it didnt give me any fits when bleeding brakes. Besides the dumb @$$ combo of metric bubble flare AND standard brake fittings on the same truck
 
Make sure the crush washers on the caliper hose are clean and new. I had an audi a4 that I couldn’t bleed, replaced the crush washers and bob’s your uncle. Worth a shot
 
This may well be an ABS issue. The Dakota I fixed from a junker has the brake warning on all the time, even though the brakes work great. I'm pretty sure its ABS I think they are 4 wheel in that one. The GMC also has a brake issue and I'm sure the ABS is the problem there. They are worse. The ABS module is underneath, jammed up into the frame and rear crossmemember. The GMC "engineer" who thought that up should have his member crossed.
 
68Valiant225 said:
We had to replace the front calipers because one locked up,...After we did the front brakes, the pedal was never really back, it worked but had way to much travel... We've put something like a gallon of fluid through this and it just wont bleed. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Make sure you installed the ft. calipers on the correct sides. Bleeders screw facing up, if the screws at near the lower side then air will be trapped.
 
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Have you tried using a hand held vacuum pump with the brake bleeder adapter to see if you can draw fluid to that corner of the vehicle? Always remember to start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder? Did you bench bleed the master before you installed on the vehicle?
 
Johnny Mac said:
Does it have abs on the front or rear? Had a similar issue with a late model Jeep. Air was getting stuck in the ABS module. Fought it for a long time before I finally got it figured out. Also had a 97 dakota, which I imagine is similar to your 99 Durango, but it didnt give me any fits when bleeding brakes. Besides the dumb @$$ combo of metric bubble flare AND standard brake fittings on the same truck
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Am 90% sure it's just rear abs, but need to figure out with 100% certainty today. And the standard/metric fittings are the WORST. Pretty sure we killed a bleeder screw because we used the wrong wrench on it, 7/16 and 10mm are close, but maybe not close enough
 
RustyRatRod said:
There's a correct procedure for everything. Have you read the factory service manual? Don't assume it bleeds normally.
Click to expand...

The only "abnormal" thing in the fsm is that it says to bleed the combo valve. Not exactly sure how to do this, just crack the fittings like they're bleeders? Everything else outlined in the fsm is what we were already doing
 
FDD1964 said:
Have you tried using a hand held vacuum pump with the brake bleeder adapter to see if you can draw fluid to that corner of the vehicle? Always remember to start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder? Did you bench bleed the master before you installed on the vehicle?
Click to expand...

Master was bench bled, we're getting fluid to every corner of the truck, and yes, going pass. rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front for order
 
Wasnt me fixing it unfortunately so I don’t know exactly what happened. But a brand new parts store caliper seal was bad and there was no external leaks. Try clamping off the caliper hoses individually or per side with vise grips that have tape on the jaws or even hoses shoved over the jaws. Same could be done with the rear center hose for the drums. Then bleed and see if you get a pedal. Just a way of isolating what truly is the culprit.

Also I’ve bled abs systems by driving the car in the grass or gravel or something and slamming on the brakes, then rebleed. It allows fluid to pass the abs module. But sounds like you have fluid on the rear already so I don’t think that’s an issue.
 
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I had the same issue. To bad I wasn’t awake enough to realize that the calipers were installed upside down!
Yea, bleeder screws on the bottom. Amazing huh?!?!
 
We replaced the rear hose that goes to the axle from the frame. It finally bled. We also cracked the fittings at the abs module, so it was either one or the other or both that saved it. Back on the road until it gets a fresh(er) 5.9 with lots of aftermarket parts. Then the worn out 5.9 get a refresh and gives my 68 some horsepower
 
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