Dyno Day.

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Kent mosby

FABO Gold Member
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I went to the dyno today. The motor ran smoothly. I did not know what to expect from the motor.
Max HP at the wheels was 403 at 5310 rpms and max torque was 406 at 5120. We ran up to 6330 rpms. 123 mph

Wife took video of the computer not the car.




RB 512ci, 440 source stroker kit with lightweight crankshaft, forged pistons, 10.83 CR. Trick Flow 240 heads, 440 source aluminum rockers 1.5RR, Trick flow single-plane intake. Holley Super Sniper EFI, HyperSpark ignition, coil and distributor. TTI 2 inch headers. Hughes 3000 stall converter. 727 transmission with transgo TF2 valve body mods. B&M Quicksilver shifter. Gear vendors overdrive to 8 3/4 rear end with 3.91 gears, braced in back. SS leaf springs. Competition Engineering race shocks. Pypes Exhaust 3" into 2.5 inch. RacePro mufflers. Cooper Cobra 275/60-15 28.2 inch diameter tires, will have drag radials for track. Current cam specs 244°/252° @ .050”, 282°/290° adv, .516”/.537” lift (1.5:1 rocker), 112° LSA, .016”/.018” lash, Solid lifter from Oregon Cams.

IMG_2106.JPG
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Seems to peek a little early with a cam in the 240s @050. But 403 at the wheels is nothin to sneeze at. How was the fuel flow data? Did the dyno op monitor anything like that?
 
Are you going to make changes? I know very little about tuning except what I read here, so Im curious if there was feedback from the Dyno guy on what would get more out of your combo.

Nice goin Kent!
 
Seems to peek a little early with a cam in the 240s @050. But 403 at the wheels is nothin to sneeze at. How was the fuel flow data? Did the dyno op monitor anything like that?
Fuel flow on the EFI datalog went from about 250 lbs/hr to just touching 301 lbs/hr. before shutting it down. very hard to see small red line. It seems to change at the end of the run
fuel flow.JPG
 
Are you going to make changes? I know very little about tuning except what I read here, so Im curious if there was feedback from the Dyno guy on what would get more out of your combo.

Nice goin Kent!
Thanks
He did not mention capability, but indicated that he would be happy to make changes and get it perfected. He seemed to think that the timing was too far advanced at 35* at WOT. He also said that the only way to find out is to adjust it and dyno it again. 3 runs cost me $100. I don't really need to make any changes for it to drive nicely. To get more performance out of it, let's see what the experts here say about where we are at. I am still on the fence about the torque converter and the camshaft. Yet if I change the camshaft for more peak power, would I make it less drivable on the street?? He indicated that the TQ flashed at 3500 rpms, and it is a hughes 3000 rpm converter.
 
What’s your best et and mph
Well, I had an issue with my camshaft being installed 8 degrees retarded by me. That has been corrected by me. In the retarded condition it ran 12.3 at 109. I am not an experienced racer and my RT was probably .25 or so and leaving off idle or just a bit higher.
 
Well, I had an issue with my camshaft being installed 8 degrees retarded by me. That has been corrected by me. In the retarded condition it ran 12.3 at 109. I am not an experienced racer and my RT was probably .25 or so and leaving off idle or just a bit higher.
What does your car weigh
 
Not sure. Full interior no light weight stuff . Stock scamp
 
There is LOTS more in your combo. In my humble opinion, (regarding driveline loss %) your 400whp is around 500 crank.
Even in a heavy a-body, with your gear and good tires, mid to low elevens should be possible. (Wallace says 11.20s). You will need MUCH better tires than cooper cobras at the track. They are a fine street tire, but.......
 
Those are really nice rear wheel numbers, Kent.
 
There is LOTS more in your combo. In my humble opinion, (regarding driveline loss %) your 400whp is around 500 crank.
Even in a heavy a-body, with your gear and good tires, mid to low elevens should be possible. (Wallace says 11.20s). You will need MUCH better tires than cooper cobras at the track. They are a fine street tire, but.......
I agree that there may be more. This is my first dyno and I just got it running correctly. I use MT Street SS drag radials on the track. For my first engine build, I am happy.
 
I agree that there may be more. This is my first dyno and I just got it running correctly. I use MT Street SS drag radials on the track. For my first engine build, I am happy.
Very well done!! Now you can have fun and enjoy the satisfaction that you built it and can tinker/tune it to your own delight.
 
There is LOTS more in your combo. In my humble opinion, (regarding driveline loss %) your 400whp is around 500 crank.
Even in a heavy a-body, with your gear and good tires, mid to low elevens should be possible. (Wallace says 11.20s). You will need MUCH better tires than cooper cobras at the track. They are a fine street tire, but.......
I don't think there is much more without a cam change, fairly good numbers for the current combo. :thumbsup:
 
A couple questions: are you surprised, happy with or disappointed with the Dyno numbers? What’s important to you: dyno numbers or getting the car dialed in at the track and seeing where you can get it to et/Mph wise? And/or that it runs great on the street? I’d be studying those graphs, determining launch rpm or if a higher flash stall is needed as well as the best shift points.
You do realize there are others running lower ET’s, and higher Mph with less cubes, less cam, etc. not to mention other things possibly at a disadvantage compared to what you have?
Making changes in parts before thorough tuning, learning what the setup needs and honing some driver skills seems cart before the horse or no? Not saying that changes may need to be made but.. Just my take:)

This is all a learning process for me. When I started out, I knew nothing about big block motors. Now I have built one. It began as a motor that would accommodate nitrous and be used primarily as a strip car. The strip closed so the focus changed to a street car without nitrous. Thus the cam profile is not ideal for its current purpose. I am not chasing any numbers or planning to race the car in any class races. Plans changed. Now I want a car that has great street manners and can go fast "enough". I am happy with the initial pulls. The car ran happily to almost 6500 rpms without any mechanical issues. Since I am not comparing myself to others and their performance , it matters not that someone has a faster car with fewer cubes. I know the TQ is going to be a thorn in my side until I change it. My skills as a driver are not going to change much as I will not be taking lessons or going to a driving school. I may only take the car to a race track 5-6 times a year. Yet, while there I want to perform. Will that mean that I need a transbrake VB and tub the rear, nope.

My next decision is what do I do with the cam? Since I am going to be changing the timing cover due to oil leaks, I will have the front of the motor off. The time to decide is now.
Roller cam, solid, Hydraulic? If I change I will connect with Porter racing heads on the recommendation from Holley Sniper forums to get a new camshaft. Once it is together, then I can focus on street manners as well as strip technique and performance.

In short, yes, I am happy with the start of the project. But, hobbies are never done. Much has been learned and still much to be learned, Thanks everyone who has helped along the way.

I hope this answered your questions in a nice way. Rereading it I may have come across annoyed. I am not at all annoyed and appreciate the thoughtful questions. Sorry If my answers seemed in any way cross.
 
Need to feed the beast, a camshaft in the upper .500 lower 6 to take advantage of the Trick Flow heads. imo
 
This is all a learning process for me. When I started out, I knew nothing about big block motors. Now I have built one. It began as a motor that would accommodate nitrous and be used primarily as a strip car. The strip closed so the focus changed to a street car without nitrous. Thus the cam profile is not ideal for its current purpose. I am not chasing any numbers or planning to race the car in any class races. Plans changed. Now I want a car that has great street manners and can go fast "enough". I am happy with the initial pulls. The car ran happily to almost 6500 rpms without any mechanical issues. Since I am not comparing myself to others and their performance , it matters not that someone has a faster car with fewer cubes. I know the TQ is going to be a thorn in my side until I change it. My skills as a driver are not going to change much as I will not be taking lessons or going to a driving school. I may only take the car to a race track 5-6 times a year. Yet, while there I want to perform. Will that mean that I need a transbrake VB and tub the rear, nope.

My next decision is what do I do with the cam? Since I am going to be changing the timing cover due to oil leaks, I will have the front of the motor off. The time to decide is now.
Roller cam, solid, Hydraulic? If I change I will connect with Porter racing heads on the recommendation from Holley Sniper forums to get a new camshaft. Once it is together, then I can focus on street manners as well as strip technique and performance.

In short, yes, I am happy with the start of the project. But, hobbies are never done. Much has been learned and still much to be learned, Thanks everyone who has helped along the way.

I hope this answered your questions in a nice way. Rereading it I may have come across annoyed. I am not at all annoyed and appreciate the thoughtful questions. Sorry If my answers seemed in any way cross.
Amen!! Go enjoy!!
 
This is all a learning process for me. When I started out, I knew nothing about big block motors. Now I have built one. It began as a motor that would accommodate nitrous and be used primarily as a strip car. The strip closed so the focus changed to a street car without nitrous. Thus the cam profile is not ideal for its current purpose. I am not chasing any numbers or planning to race the car in any class races. Plans changed. Now I want a car that has great street manners and can go fast "enough". I am happy with the initial pulls. The car ran happily to almost 6500 rpms without any mechanical issues. Since I am not comparing myself to others and their performance , it matters not that someone has a faster car with fewer cubes. I know the TQ is going to be a thorn in my side until I change it. My skills as a driver are not going to change much as I will not be taking lessons or going to a driving school. I may only take the car to a race track 5-6 times a year. Yet, while there I want to perform. Will that mean that I need a transbrake VB and tub the rear, nope.

My next decision is what do I do with the cam? Since I am going to be changing the timing cover due to oil leaks, I will have the front of the motor off. The time to decide is now.
Roller cam, solid, Hydraulic? If I change I will connect with Porter racing heads on the recommendation from Holley Sniper forums to get a new camshaft. Once it is together, then I can focus on street manners as well as strip technique and performance.

In short, yes, I am happy with the start of the project. But, hobbies are never done. Much has been learned and still much to be learned, Thanks everyone who has helped along the way.

I hope this answered your questions in a nice way. Rereading it I may have come across annoyed. I am not at all annoyed and appreciate the thoughtful questions. Sorry If my answers seemed in any way cross.
You won't need a transbrake to run low 10s. I don't know your idea of perform but to me that's fine.
2 step, minitub maybe but with 3.91 gears you only want 28 inch tires max to get some rpm going early.
Also like fisherman 67 said you want to take advantage of the flow potential of that head.
Oops missed the part where you want a street friendly car, sounds like you're already there
 
Looks like you are on track. I like the dyno time price rate, wish I could find that in Western Wash.
 
If you want to change 'the cam', you should first decide what the goal is with the engine. Look at the rest of the combo as well; decide how much of a rough idle you are willing to tolerate if you go bigger with the cam.
 
Put some sticky tires on it and go to the track. That's the real test. You may be really surprised.
 
If you want to change 'the cam', you should first decide what the goal is with the engine. Look at the rest of the combo as well; decide how much of a rough idle you are willing to tolerate if you go bigger with the cam.
I am looking at the Torque converter as well but that may be next year. I like the gearing, transmission, VB as they are. Anything in particular you are referring to. I am considering a cam probably in the 241 duration and .600 lift range. Not too crazy. But something to take advantage of the high flow of the TF 240s.

The idle is not really lopey right now. A bit more would not be bad. The video above has some idle sound.
 
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