e58 police oil cooler

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bbab3

bbab3

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I'm in the process of building a 340 motor for my '67 fb Barracuda. i have a compete oil cooler setup that came off a '70s e58 police car. i was going to use it on my '78 Power Wagon and never got around to it. My question is it worth the trouble to make use of it on the Barracuda which will be street car mainly used for road trips. the motor build now consists of 10to1 compression, Edelbrock heads, ld340 intake and still searching for the right cam.
 
I use them racing and towing, but have not ever put one on a street driver. It might be an alternate way to shed some of the heat off of that higher compression engine if needed.

BTW, a remote oil filter will provide some oil cooling too.
 
Got any pics of that setup? I’d be interested is seeing what the setup looks like.
 
Some of the reasons i am considering using it is that the setup has a thermostat valve and the return line oils the timing chain. After this summer of driving in 100*+ temps might come in handy for long hard runs up a grade since the tire diameter is 26" and the rear gearing will be 3.00- 3.23. The possible leak issue is one of concerns may need new oil lines.
Has any one used this setup?

upload_2018-9-17_9-33-20.jpeg
 
Thanks for posting the diagram! Long time ago I added an oil cooler in conjunction with a remote oil filter to a 69 Charger I had. Never experienced a leak in the system!
 
yes for towing, hard working truck, motorhome, south west us oil temp gauge will tell
if you are asking about a cam there are several recent threads
which chamber (flat deck or recess) in the edelbrock heads and cc's (are they stock or ported) cast iron 340 manifolds, 360 manifolds, headers, what size and style
what pistons and compression height and deck clearance, what gasket do you plan on
what gears
I'd get a tranny cooler B 4 an engine oil cooler 340 higher stall converter or 318 lower stall converter (diameter)
is this a cast crank late motor or an earlier forged crank one?
as old as all this old iron is if you have not owned it since new research all the details
get all the details together and you will get an overwhelming amount of cam suggestions
if you are already looking at catalog/ shelf grinds start with Lunati Voodoo and Howard with the "15" footnote but exhaust ill make a difference
 
edit after your post
when I was with chrysler we did tests on oil coolers- they do work and if you are in 100 degree weather I would do it
use a spoiler/ front valance under the bumper or core support and plug all the holes in the core support except cold air to the filter if you are taking it from the grille area
Do you have front discs and a sway bar- modern radials like a much flatter tire on pavement, less body roll, wider wheels like 15's or better to clear the discs- lots of things to do to make a reliable/ safer road car
Tranny cooler get a Borg Warner 100 plate and fin cooler with half inch in and out threads- no tube and fin wannabees
use at least 3/8 oil proof and I'd run 1/2 inch do this and you can eliminate going through the restrictive radiator heater/cooler (if you are not in a cold weather area) stock should flow (at the tranny return) 1 quart in 20 seconds at idle
If your motor is not together make sure the oil galley plugs are drilled for oil squirt to the timing chain
you can also drill a small .040ish hole through the thrust into an oil passage to lube the thrust and the chain
chain is not usually a problem, the holes also bleed any air/ bubbles/ foam trapped in the oil galleys they should have be there already but check your new after rebuild ones
use a timing set with an IWISS chain- not a place for junk
if you do not have pistons yet consider the KB's and .020 over also ring set with a ductile top
 
An oil cooler is good for mixed use but I think I would want an active thermostat and bypass. The thermostat opens when the oil gets above desired temp and sends it to the cooler but not before. Otherwise your oil is going to be cooler than ideal running through the cooler all the time. Sort of like removing the coolant thermostat. As I read it that kit has a check valve, which should only prevent reverse flow. Something to consider. If it is always hotter than desirable then the full time cooler would be the way to go.
 
To clarify things about the car, I have a 340 that originally was to go into '71 cuda but ended up going into my Power Wagon with 1.88 heads and a mild cam. The plan for the Barracuda is upgrading the 340 with parts that I acquired since I bought the car. The motor has about 20k miles 185psi compression from Kb Pistons that sit 14 thousands above the deck. Looking to use 50 thousands head gaskets with the closed chamber Eddy heads and hopefully have 10 to 1 compression (wont know till I check). The carb was to be an aftermarket Thermoauad, now a 625cfm Street Demon on ld340. I have had a number of conversations with Comp Cams and Hughes about the cam, from what have read here Racer Brown is who I should talk to.The transmission will be a 3.09 first gear a833 for use with a 3.00- 3.23 rear. The suspension has front/rear sway bars and .92" torsion bars and currently has 17" wheels and 26" diameter tires.This has been slow moving project, now I'm at least picking up the pace. The car is a shell and should be out of the body shop next month. Just trying to get things in order and budget money and time.
 
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When it comes to the cooler. Th oil is feed from the oil pressure sender port next the distributor and the cooler has a thermostat valve at the input fitting on the cooler. After the oil passes through the cooler to special bolt that is restricted and squirts the oil on the timing chain. The system looks well engineered. I have a lot of experience with remote oil filters and coolers on aircooled vw off-road cars. But that's a totally different application.
 
bbab3 said:
I'm in the process of building a 340 motor for my '67 fb Barracuda. i have a compete oil cooler setup that came off a '70s e58 police car. i was going to use it on my '78 Power Wagon and never got around to it. My question is it worth the trouble to make use of it on the Barracuda which will be street car mainly used for road trips. the motor build now consists of 10to1 compression, Edelbrock heads, ld340 intake and still searching for the right cam.
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I’d run it because cooler oil lasts longer.
Between a quality oil & filter, I also have a windage tray to help prevent the oil from getting beat up from the crank. Adding depth to the pan is also a plus even for a daily driver. All of this has been proven a fact.
 
The smallest comp cam designed for a mopar is the XE275HL
most likely too big for your build
for shelf cams check lunati voodoo and Howard with a 15 footnote
if they are not responsive Bullet has a full line of MOPAR profiles easy to work with
Racer is also a good place to go as is Hughes
 
I think one with a thermostat is a good idea, oil gets pretty dang hot cruising at highway speeds unless you have really tall gearing.

Don't be afraid to call Jim at Racer Brown, he's actually in the process of grinding me a custom cam for my 5.9 Magnum build right now. Very nice guy and definitely knows what he's doing, I can't wait to hear it run and feel the power
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
I think one with a thermostat is a good idea, oil gets pretty dang hot cruising at highway speeds unless you have really tall gearing.

Don't be afraid to call Jim at Racer Brown, he's actually in the process of grinding me a custom cam for my 5.9 Magnum build right now. Very nice guy and definitely knows what he's doing, I can't wait to hear it run and feel the power
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Are you going to post up what he's grinding?
 
Just for another perspective, my MGB with a little 1800cc L4 has a factory full-time oil cooler. I might put a piece of cardboard in front of it if there's snow on the ground (not often here in NorCal, but it travels). It doesn't particularly leak any more than the rest of the system.
 
yellow rose said:
Damn, thats a bit of lift for that @.050 timing. I like it.
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It is going to be a hydraulic roller btw. I am curious why he chose that much lift when he said it wasn't necessary over the phone, I guess it just motivates me to spend more to get my Edelbrock RPMs ported lol... my machinist did seem pretty eager to do a simple clean-up job on the ports once he saw them in person but I just want the important work done for now until I get an idea of how the costs are stacking up.

Aside from all the car and drivetrain specs I told Jim I intend to use the car mostly for street and road racing, also that I'm at 5000 feet above sea level and my engine's compression will only be 9.5:1 at best. He said what I have and what I'm doing is pretty unusual and he'd "have to take a couple days to think about it" which makes me even more glad I went with a custom grinder.
 
note that he does not specify a super long exhaust
that was popular with bad exhaust flow in the stock heads and manifolds
just sucks your intake out the exhaust, creates extra heat, more reversion and kills mileage
looks good to me
good luck getting one like that from a cam hot line
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
It is going to be a hydraulic roller btw. I am curious why he chose that much lift when he said it wasn't necessary over the phone, I guess it just motivates me to spend more to get my Edelbrock RPMs ported lol... my machinist did seem pretty eager to do a simple clean-up job on the ports once he saw them in person but I just want the important work done for now until I get an idea of how the costs are stacking up.

Aside from all the car and drivetrain specs I told Jim I intend to use the car mostly for street and road racing, also that I'm at 5000 feet above sea level and my engine's compression will only be 9.5:1 at best. He said what I have and what I'm doing is pretty unusual and he'd "have to take a couple days to think about it" which makes me even more glad I went with a custom grinder.
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Ok, the HR explains the lift. FWIW I put as much lift into them as you can get within reason. I net .600 with Jims SFT lobes. That's about as much as I feel comfortable with as far as fitting the lift on a lobe with a somewhat reasonable lift rate and that's about as much lift as I feel comfortable with using the stock installed heights. More lift makes the geometry correction even tougher.

BTW, I hope you are going to use B3's geometry correct kit. Sounds like you are going to have a seriously well thought out engine. Should be very nice.
 
Looks like using the cooler is the way to go for my setup. And definitely need to call Racer Brown about my cam. Thanks for the Input.
 
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