early A body engine swap

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The 273/318 mounts can be modified to work for 340s by welding on a triangle ear and drilling a hole.
 
grimreaper said:
The 273/318 mounts can be modified to work for 340s by welding on a triangle ear and drilling a hole.
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Pre-welding... piece was cut from the back side where there were 2 holes and only 1 tab on the 360/340

IMG_2123.jpeg
 
cudamark said:
You need to get that dip stick tube seated all the way down Jim! :lol:
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:rofl:

Can't put that in till I had the top end all figured out. It had to go through a little tiny hole in the alternator bracket on these early A's...
 
thx for the tip. i'll be putting pretty much all new external gaskets & O-rings on it anyway. I've heard the 318 run and it has no knocks or rattles but I think i'll cross hatch the cylinders and ring the pistons,replace the cam with a mild upgrade,and replace the mains and rods. that way i'm pretty much done for a while.
 
halfafish said:
You might want to do some homework on the engine mounts if you are doing a 318 now and a 340 later. I believe they are different from a 273/318 and 340/360, so the 340 would need another set.
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Almost correct on the motor mounts. Only the driver side needs changing, the passenger side should be the same.
 
I'm chiming in on this topic. I have -65 Valiant with 360 swapped into it. Motor mounts are totally shot, and need to be replaced (they probably have hard time handling the blower torque). Can I replace the 2265 mounts with 2469 (they seem to have locking tabs which could help with the engine twist) or even with Moroso solid steel mounts? Moroso 62540 Moroso Solid Steel Motor Mounts | Summit Racing
motor_mounts.jpg
 
With the 273 style Brackets 2710 (Napa 606-1653)biscuits from a diesel '90 W250 are close to the correct thickness and have locking tabs. The hole in the mount for the alignment pin has to be moved a bit.....
2469 aren't thick enough and let the engine sit too low.

With the Shumacher conversion mount the 2469 may be thick enough.
 
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I've always used the same mounts, can't remember but I think I just moved it from the front of the ears to the rear. I never welded the piece on just ran it with one bolt but this was on 340's so I don't know about 318's. ps never had any issues with running just one bolt, still have one bolt on my 340 cuda that runs 11.80's.
 
grimreaper said:
With the 273 style Brackets 2710 (Napa 606-1653)biscuits from a diesel '90 W250 are close to the correct thickness and have locking tabs. The hole in the mount for the alignment pin has to be moved a bit.....
2469 aren't thick enough and let the engine sit too low.

With the Shumacher conversion mount the 2469 may be thick enough.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! I'm genuinely surprised how difficult it is to find information about the mounts. I can't find any official info about the thickness of 2265, my local dealer tells me it's 36mm so that would be hair under 1.5". Rockauto tells me that 2469 would be 1.5" and 2710 would be 1.75" thick, so that makes me second guess the info from my local dealer. I need the replace the mounts with something ASAP just to get the car back on road, so maybe I just order pair of 2265 and try to look into the mounts and brackets with time. I would like to get either solid steel or poly mounts, but the options seem to be very limited. Looks like Moroso steel mounts are only 1" thick so they are probably way too low anyway. Maybe best long term solution would be if I try to source the 340 / 360 brackets and get poly mounts from Dodge polyurethane engine mount

Edit: After some googling I can't find anything which would indicate that there is height difference between 273 and 360 mounts, only difference I could find was with the mounting tabs.
 
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GunslingerFIN said:
Thanks for the info! I'm genuinely surprised how difficult it is to find information about the mounts. I can't find any official info about the thickness of 2265, my local dealer tells me it's 36mm so that would be hair under 1.5". Rockauto tells me that 2469 would be 1.5" and 2710 would be 1.75" thick, so that makes me second guess the info from my local dealer. I need the replace the mounts with something ASAP just to get the car back on road, so maybe I just order pair of 2265 and try to look into the mounts and brackets with time. I would like to get either solid steel or poly mounts, but the options seem to be very limited. Looks like Moroso steel mounts are only 1" thick so they are probably way too low anyway. Maybe best long term solution would be if I try to source the 340 / 360 brackets and get poly mounts from Dodge polyurethane engine mount

Edit: After some googling I can't find anything which would indicate that there is height difference between 273 and 360 mounts, only difference I could find was with the mounting tabs.
Click to expand...
I call them block insulators and they are the same on all LA blocks, I believe 72' and down, then they used the roll mounts (different "K" member W/loops). It's the mount to block tabs that are different on the applications 273-318 or 340-360. I would not use a solid mount on a street motor. I had issues with breaking mounts (drivers side) in my 72' Van with a 340. I installed a chain at the mount to engine and the corrected the problem. I believe a solid mount would be hard on the motor, the frame and my body. On my van, I was able to tweak the tabs (318) to accommodate the 340, but they are longer on the van than the cars, so it was easy to adjust.
 
Swinger 340 said:
I call them block insulators and they are the same on all LA blocks, I believe 72' and down, then they used the roll mounts (different "K" member W/loops). It's the mount to block tabs that are different on the applications 273-318 or 340-360. I would not use a solid mount on a street motor. I had issues with breaking mounts (drivers side) in my 72' Van with a 340. I installed a chain at the mount to engine and the corrected the problem. I believe a solid mount would be hard on the motor, the frame and my body. On my van, I was able to tweak the tabs (318) to accommodate the 340, but they are longer on the van than the cars, so it was easy to adjust.
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The car is currently built solely for drag racing, and it get's very few miles on the road, so I'm thinking the solid mounts could be viable option. I'm more concerned about the engine twisting when accelerating, but let's see if that issue gets better with the new rubbers.
 
Another thing I noticed is that it looks the design of the 2710 mounts have changed. I found some old forum posts and pictures about Anchor 2710 mounts, and they seem to have the locking tabs also encased with the rubber:
2710_old.JPG
But every picture of 2710 mounts I found for sale, have the tabs separated:
2710_new.JPG
That old design might be really good for my application, but I just simply cannot find them anywhere.
 
That first example is the ones I have used, with the rubber between the tabs. They must have "improved" them.
 
I just purchased the Pioneer engine mount 602710 for a diesel truck from rock auto, under $12.00 and all you have to do is drill another locating hole in the bracket. The mount looks good and has the locking tabs.
 
Swinger 340 said:
I call them block insulators and they are the same on all LA blocks, I believe 72' and down, then they used the roll mounts (different "K" member W/loops). It's the mount to block tabs that are different on the applications 273-318 or 340-360. I would not use a solid mount on a street motor. I had issues with breaking mounts (drivers side) in my 72' Van with a 340. I installed a chain at the mount to engine and the corrected the problem. I believe a solid mount would be hard on the motor, the frame and my body. On my van, I was able to tweak the tabs (318) to accommodate the 340, but they are longer on the van than the cars, so it was easy to adjust.
Click to expand...
'67-72 V8 mounts are the same, but '64-66 V8 mounts are thicker. Block mount brackets are also different between early and late.
 
moparlvr166 said:
I just purchased the Pioneer engine mount 602710 for a diesel truck from rock auto, under $12.00 and all you have to do is drill another locating hole in the bracket. The mount looks good and has the locking tabs.
Click to expand...
Did they have the locking tabs also encased in the rubber, or are the locking tabs separated?
 
GunslingerFIN said:
The car is currently built solely for drag racing, and it get's very few miles on the road, so I'm thinking the solid mounts could be viable option. I'm more concerned about the engine twisting when accelerating, but let's see if that issue gets better with the new rubbers.
Click to expand...
For racing only I would still use sone type of restraint on the lift of the driver side. Chain, steel strap or a factory had one already incorporated into the mount. I believe I seen them in vans. I broke a few before I learned, even new ones.
 
The locking tabs did not have rubber. Just my thoughts you don't need rubber on the tabs due to the fact they only touch when the mount tears and they are a safety catch, In the past I have always used a chain bolted to the crossmember to the engine to limit lift and to save the mount, if this mount tears I will go back to a chain.
 
Thank you all for the comments! I think I'll order pair of both 2265 and 2710. I'll try to fit the 2710 first and if something does not work, I'll have the 2265 as backup.
 
Well, just like everything else with 60-year-old heavily modified car, this won't be as simple and straight forward as I had hoped it to be. The car has Hooker headers where on drivers side three of the tubes go over and outside of the frame rail, and then curl back under the rail. There's is maybe 1/4" room for the engine to go higher. I don't even know if I can change the 2265 mounts without removing the headers from the engine before, and with new and intact 2265 mounts I'm worried that the pipes will start hitting the frame.
headers.jpg

frame.jpg
 
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