Easy way to make custom headers? What ??

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'63GT

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I saw this today.. What a great idea! I did some quick research.. it's expensive. But I'm really digging the special clamping system..

 
I saw this today.. What a great idea! I did some quick research.. it's expensive. But I'm really digging the special clamping system..




Cool stuff but header making is a royal PITA. And then you read stuff that Calvin Elston writes and does and you realize that no matter what you do, you are probably leaving power on the table.

IMO, designing headers starts with the carb/induction and moves to the intake port and then to cam timing, then on to the exhaust port and cam lobe and THEN you can start thinking of header tubing sizes, steps if any, collector sizing and shape and design.


Calvin is as smart as they come. Reading his stuff makes you think about systems instead of parts.
 
Cool stuff but header making is a royal PITA. And then you read stuff that Calvin Elston writes and does and you realize that no matter what you do, you are probably leaving power on the table.

IMO, designing headers starts with the carb/induction and moves to the intake port and then to cam timing, then on to the exhaust port and cam lobe and THEN you can start thinking of header tubing sizes, steps if any, collector sizing and shape and design.


Calvin is as smart as they come. Reading his stuff makes you think about systems instead of parts.

I'll have to look him up..
I agree, the WHOLE engine has to be assessed as a unit.
 
Well said YR, and no doubt!
By the time you do all the work yourself on a simple system, (before reading any header thoughts...) you’ll probably be twisting your head off and back on just to have your brain explode. After reading thoughts on headers, your head will imploded and then explode twice over because you wil have done all that work and then discovered much. And you’ll say, what a waste of time that was.

Ether build it simple and never worry or read a lot and ponder for weeks, years... LOL
 
Re: Turbo headers.
In terms of making a design that fits, they're easier.
If you're serious about getting a set made, look up Brian Slowe in Philadelphia. He does mostly 4 cylinder mopars, but will take on v-8 projects as time and interest permits.

Re: Calvin Elston
His blog Exhausting 101
He's also was an active participant at Speedtalk, so much more there. This is a good one to start with
"What is [exhaust] Blowdown Length?" p.2

Also some good threads on speedtalk about building headers.
Join the forum so you can see the pictures. The only e-mails you'll get are those from Speedtalk itself - maybe once a year or two.
First time header build - Speed Talk
Brian did a 421 on my car. Passenger side is really tight. 4 in 1 would be easier, and probably neccessary with a high Hp&rpm small block.
There's pictures there if you do a search.

Another system for mocking up headers uses pvc tubing. See
Stainless Headers Mfg., Inc.
They'll make up headers to your design using this system or any othe mockup you want.
 
Yep that clamping system looks nice! The cheap way to do it is to use painters masking tape.
Have done some headers and unless you are seriously into classracing or prostock or something at that level just build something that fits in the right size wile trying to get your primarylenghts somewhat right,not worth loosing any sleep over if its perfect or not.

Just think atleast twice before cutting,keep the sections true as you cut them and tack everything togheter as you fit it.
Fully weld when you have the layout the way you want it unless its impossible to get to the weld due to tight spaces.
I prefer tacking all tubes together then break them lose from the flange and collector for final welding of all welds on the tubes after all four tubes per side are done before welding to collector and flange.
And here is one for the rookies that alot seems to have a hard time understanding,the smallest radius is not always the best choice in tight spaces.
In places where two tubes are close to each other and "spooning" ,use different radiuses for a much nicer look,outside tube can use a larger radius to follow the inside tube much cleaner looking.
Always use the biggest radius you can use,its better for flow.
if you end up with a few "scrap" pieces of straight tubing and bends in the begining,dont worry you will find a usefull spot for them later on and they are certainly handy to have to be able to get an idea about if more tubes will fit next to the one you are presently working on.
Try to get your cuts as true as possible and make all parts fit each other as good as possible or you will hate yourself for it when you start welding..
Most mandrelbent tubing will be slightly deformed,dont worry alitle preasure from the right dirrections and a few light taps with the tolerance adjusment tool(hammer) and it will pretty much perfect if you just have nice and true cuts.

I could probably keep on typing on this subject forever,its not rocketscience but just getting the right feel for it and figuring out the litle things that makes a whole lot of difference goes along way.
 
they advertise them to fit the LA series heads too. Maybe they figured out how to make them fit both?
The problem is probably not how they fit the head,its how they probbaly wont fit in the car,just guesstimating here but i believe that design might not fit betwen the head and fender on the passanger side on an Abody,on the driverside i would be surprised if #7 tube is not hitting the steering column.
 
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