Hi all,anyone try or have used a Tru-Trac in there car? Any thoughts on the unit good or bad? Thanks for any input.......sabre67
Eaton Tru-Trac differential
- Thread starter sabre67
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Yes, I got it in my Dana 60 from Cass. Love it. Even with the 4.10 gears. Around 4,000 rpm at 70 kinda sucks.
Pulling out of parking spots, right turns at stop signs et cetera and other driving in town is just fine. Diff locks up great for straight line acceleration nicely. I bought it because I thought it was a superior design for my requirements.
Car has been non-OP since 2019. =( tires still look new, but I should probably replace them.
I am looking forward to getting the note on the charger paid off this year so I'll have the cash to spend on the Barracuda again, then I can get it back on the road.
Pulling out of parking spots, right turns at stop signs et cetera and other driving in town is just fine. Diff locks up great for straight line acceleration nicely. I bought it because I thought it was a superior design for my requirements.
Car has been non-OP since 2019. =( tires still look new, but I should probably replace them.
I am looking forward to getting the note on the charger paid off this year so I'll have the cash to spend on the Barracuda again, then I can get it back on the road.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
i have a similar set up in mine, Eaton don't do one for mine so i have an Australian Torqueline Torquelock.
They are all based on the Torsen design, in one way or another. Gears rather than friction to bias torque. The gearing and dimensions used inside dictate how aggressive they are at torque biasing.
they never ever totally totally lock, they just act like they are until the demand to allow variance between sides returns.
you wouldn't even know it was there on the street
does the job at the track
the diff rebuild can be a little more complicated with one, but it is dependent on centre design and the diff gears you choose.
if you have say 2.9:1 or 3.23:1 3.5:1 gears, the head of the pinion is quite big.
if the truetrack centre is large around its middle, the head of the pinion rubs on the barrel section of the truetrack. so you need to machine some off the surface of the head of the pinion. in order to be able to correctly position it in the case for good patten on the ring gear.
that surface usually has the pinion/gear set ID and some info about pinion depth spacer thickness on it, a dimension or a + or - number to indicate variance one way or another from the standard spacer size. take a photo first
not something that overburdens a diff shop, but an extra step that involves going out to a machine shop or a friend with a lathe, if you are rebuilding at home.
if you are putting in 3.9:1 or 4.11:1 the risk of this is tiny, the gearset and pinion would have to have been made at the very end of some tolerance or other.
the longer the legs the gears have, the greater the risk, BUT it depends on the gear set. for the same gearing the pinion position in the case varies between each set of that ratio, which is why that setting depth info. is stamped on the crown. You won't know until you try...
but a really good upgrade
no messing with friction modifier
maintenance free
silent of the street
does the job
light up tyres when you want, not when mid corner cresting a small hump.
i.e i have not ended up facing the wrong way on a greasy road in the dark for a long time
one of the better upgrades i have done
Dave
They are all based on the Torsen design, in one way or another. Gears rather than friction to bias torque. The gearing and dimensions used inside dictate how aggressive they are at torque biasing.
they never ever totally totally lock, they just act like they are until the demand to allow variance between sides returns.
you wouldn't even know it was there on the street
does the job at the track
the diff rebuild can be a little more complicated with one, but it is dependent on centre design and the diff gears you choose.
if you have say 2.9:1 or 3.23:1 3.5:1 gears, the head of the pinion is quite big.
if the truetrack centre is large around its middle, the head of the pinion rubs on the barrel section of the truetrack. so you need to machine some off the surface of the head of the pinion. in order to be able to correctly position it in the case for good patten on the ring gear.
that surface usually has the pinion/gear set ID and some info about pinion depth spacer thickness on it, a dimension or a + or - number to indicate variance one way or another from the standard spacer size. take a photo first
not something that overburdens a diff shop, but an extra step that involves going out to a machine shop or a friend with a lathe, if you are rebuilding at home.
if you are putting in 3.9:1 or 4.11:1 the risk of this is tiny, the gearset and pinion would have to have been made at the very end of some tolerance or other.
the longer the legs the gears have, the greater the risk, BUT it depends on the gear set. for the same gearing the pinion position in the case varies between each set of that ratio, which is why that setting depth info. is stamped on the crown. You won't know until you try...
but a really good upgrade
no messing with friction modifier
maintenance free
silent of the street
does the job
light up tyres when you want, not when mid corner cresting a small hump.
i.e i have not ended up facing the wrong way on a greasy road in the dark for a long time
one of the better upgrades i have done
Dave
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I have one in my Dakota 4x4 I installed with 3.77 gears - in the rear axle.
Never fails. No noise and it just works.
But this is a V8 pickup. It has prevented me from needing 4wd in most situations.
Never fails. No noise and it just works.
But this is a V8 pickup. It has prevented me from needing 4wd in most situations.
dartindanno
Well-Known Member
I've used the Eaton True-Trac bought from Dr Diff in my Dart for about 6 years and it's been flawless on the track and the street. I like the fact that it doesn't use friction modifier or synthetic fluids.
Some You Tube videos people say they are noisy at slow speeds during tight turns.Mine did.
I had a used, complete 3.23 rear from a member about 10 years ago.It did make noise as stated above.
Maybe it was me being paranoid. I am sure it was fine only being a street car.
Several people said use straight 90 or 140 gear oil .I went with 140. Quiet now.
I had a used, complete 3.23 rear from a member about 10 years ago.It did make noise as stated above.
Maybe it was me being paranoid. I am sure it was fine only being a street car.
Several people said use straight 90 or 140 gear oil .I went with 140. Quiet now.
missing linc
Loose nut behind the wheel
I had one in my 70 Dart, worked flawlessly, as others have said. Get yourself one, you won't regret it.
Put an eaton in my dodge 4x4 truck. Pulled off the road with the right tires in the snow and the left on the dry road. And there I sat stuck and had to get towed out. My old clutch style I would have been able to pull out in 2 wheel drive.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
i guess there was absolutely no resistance to turning felt at the snow wheel side.
The spring loaded nature of a clutch or cone diff might have helped there.
i.e one of them would still work a bit, depending on the spring loading with 1 back wheel off the ground
the trutrack won't because it needs feedback via some resistance to turning from both wheels in order for the various internal parts to "ride up the appropriate ramp" (wrong term i know to do with gear pitch....eeerrrr ) to do the biasing...
looks like you discovered the failure scenario.
Dave
The spring loaded nature of a clutch or cone diff might have helped there.
i.e one of them would still work a bit, depending on the spring loading with 1 back wheel off the ground
the trutrack won't because it needs feedback via some resistance to turning from both wheels in order for the various internal parts to "ride up the appropriate ramp" (wrong term i know to do with gear pitch....eeerrrr ) to do the biasing...
looks like you discovered the failure scenario.
Dave
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jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Was it an Eaton Sure Grip, or an Eaton True Trac?
416stroker
Well-Known Member
Benn running one in my Dart for over 15 years now. Love it. As stated above, no noise and it works! Purchased from DTS in Albion Mi.
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