Echlin Voltage Reglator VR32

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cchrishefish

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Does anyone know if this is an electronic voltage regular? I called Napa and they did not know. Maybe he did not want to look this up for me. It is the ECHVR32
 
I decided to call another Napa store and it is electronic. Therefore, the store closest to my house has a lazy staff. I guess I will not shop at that store then.
 
It looks like 1 screw secures the cover. If you want to know before you buy, have the counter guy pop the top and look. If they won't do that, feel free to flame them on yelp. I have a thin, chrome electronic Vreg on my 65 Newport. It has same connectors as the factory electro-magnet one. On my 1965 Dart, I rewired the underhood, so put the Vreg on the inner fender beside the alternator for simpler wiring. I used the later 1970's triangle plug electronic Vreg. Difference is it uses low-side switching (2 wires to field), instead of the high-side switching (1 wire to field, other side grounded) in your car.
 
Flip it around backwards. If it has the coils on the back, it is NOT electronic. All the pictures online I can find o fit it appears to be the older mechanical type.
 
Right on the NAPA site. It is not electronic. It is mechanical.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVR32
I am happy that you chimed in. Because the Napa guys at the main Syracuse, NY counter informed me that it is electronic. Since I am converting to a new electronic distributor, several articles suggest that I must use an electronic regulator, for some reason. If I need to change this which regulator would be best?
 
^^Rusty is right and I've posted this before. The two resistors are the tip off. Old mechanical is what that is I didn't realize anyone sold them, anymore.
 
^^Rusty is right and I've posted this before. The two resistors are the tip off. Old mechanical is what that is I didn't realize anyone sold them, anymore.
So, is there an electronic one available with the same wire harness connection, or do I need to change my wiring, as well?
 
So, is there an electronic one available with the same wire harness connection, or do I need to change my wiring, as well?
Exact replacement. Just make sure you have a good ground to the firewall. A external ground wire is a good bet.
 
Let me elaborate, I understand the electronic replacements control the ground side of the circuit and a poor ground will cause overcharging.
 
Let me elaborate, I understand the electronic replacements control the ground side of the circuit and a poor ground will cause overcharging.


!!NO!! Well not exactly LOL

the ground side control you are referring to is the 70/ later unit, but that fact has nothing to do with poor ground.

The one he wants replaces the 69/ earlier unit

a poor ground at the regulator with EITHER system, as well as harness voltage drop.................causes overcharge

MOST early (69/ earlier) regulators you ask for in a parts store by application (Just tell them a 68 dart etc) will be an electronic regulator in a "mechanical looking" box
 
!!NO!! Well not exactly LOL

the ground side control you are referring to is the 70/ later unit, but that fact has nothing to do with poor ground.

The one he wants replaces the 69/ earlier unit

a poor ground at the regulator with EITHER system, as well as harness voltage drop.................causes overcharge

MOST early (69/ earlier) regulators you ask for in a parts store by application (Just tell them a 68 dart etc) will be an electronic regulator in a "mechanical looking" box
I'll go with that. I unscrewed my old regulator, screwed the new one on, hooked up the wires and started it up. I was pleased at how smooth it worked until in a week or two when it started overcharging and boiled the battery, blew out light bulbs and made a mess under the hood.. Those sheet metal screws that attach it to the firewall don't grip much after 50 years and being removed 3 or 4 times.
 
So, is there an electronic one available with the same wire harness connection, or do I need to change my wiring, as well?

If you don't care what it looks like, I got a Wells/Airtex 1V1067 several years ago that has worked fine. The cover is chromed, and maybe 1/3 the height of the original electro-mechanical. Here's one on FeeBay: 69 Mopar Airtex 1V1067 New Alternator Regulator Charger Dart Cuda Roadrunner GTX | eBay

There are at least a couple electronic units out there made to look like the original parts. One is a Chinese part made by Regitar. These sell cheap, and are all over Ebay. I just got one from FBO Ignition that looks good, and is claimed to be American made. I haven't installed it, so I can't give a report on it's performance. I've heard good things about the company, though. I got it with a 15% off ebay coupon, but they have a "make an offer button" that looks to be worth trying. Mopar Electronic Voltage Regulator - Correct Restoration Look 3 Year Warranty | eBay
 
This sure puts a delay in my ignition upgrade this weekend. I do not see any parts stores in my area that have one in stock. I do have the 60 amp alternator.
 
This sure puts a delay in my ignition upgrade this weekend. I do not see any parts stores in my area that have one in stock. I do have the 60 amp alternator.
I would imagine the ignition system want's constant voltage. The old points regulators aren't very steady at idle.
 
I would buy one of the electronic regulators and make sure the paint is off around the screw holes and on the firewall. Use the toothed washers and install a extra ground wire. You will be good.
 
a poor ground at the regulator with EITHER system,..............causes overcharge
Incorrect, a bad ground with the newer electronic regulator (triangle plug), will cause no charging. The regulator completes the field circuit to ground through the regulator case. If the case is not grounded, you do not have a complete field circuit.
 
It is a SMP VR101T, sorry the link is not working for you, it works on my end.
 
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