Edelbrock Fuel Pump and Carburetor

Discussion in 'Fuel and Air Systems' started by Gandy Dancer, Apr 2, 2018.

  1. Gandy Dancer

    Gandy Dancer Well-Known Member

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    Hello FABO - I just replaced my stock mechanical fuel pump on my 318 with a mechanical edelbrock pump, which I can see is working great and pumping fuel up through the glass filter which I am using. The problem I am having is that the car is not starting unless I am pour a little squirt of gas into the carburetor to get it started.It will run for a second and then cut off. The carburetor seems not to be pumping the fuel into the carburetor. Has anybody run into this before or does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks. 20180402_182647.jpg 20180402_202711.jpg 20180402_202725.jpg 20180402_202736.jpg 20180402_202750.jpg 20180402_202805.jpg 20180402_202827.jpg

    Thanks!
     
  2. Fisher

    Fisher Old Guy with a Cool car.

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    Start by pulling the fuel line off, remove the top of the carb and make sure both floats are set correctly. The needle and seats may be stuck closed. I have nothing good to say about those carbs to be honest.
     
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    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      Carburetors don't pump fuel.
      The only pump on a carb is the accelerator pump.
      All that is needed for the carb to work is fuel in the carb bowls. If there's no fuel coming out the accelerator pump squirters when the throttle is moved, then the bowl is probably low or dry. If some shoots out, then the bowls may or may not by low. Take the top off and see what's going on. Make sure the float is set to specs.

      Glass filter looks empty in the photo. Could be just the picture. It should be full of fuel except for a little vapor bubble near the top. That's a lot of fuel hose, and the headers are a possible source of vapor lock on the way to the fuel pump. Winter fuel is more likely to vapor lock when hot than summer fuels.
       
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      • thedartsport

        thedartsport Well-Known Member

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        Your filter looks like it needs changing too.
         
      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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        Start at the beginning people...

        What was the reason you changed the fuel pump?
        Did the car run properly before the pump change?
         
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        • Mattax

          Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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          Is that a 5/16 hose barb on 1/8 NPT on the pump's fuel inlet? If so, that's a restriction and mechanical pumps do not perform well with restrictions on the suction side.
           
        • rustycowll69

          rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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          it's hard to tell from pics, but if that is Teflon tape I'm seeing, you might have some pieces of that in the carb plugging a passage or two. Those in-line filters don't catch all the junk, so don't be surprised if you find junk in the carb.
           
        • Gandy Dancer

          Gandy Dancer Well-Known Member

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          I was able to adjust the floats and test the accelerator pump. I finally have fuel coming out of the accelerator pump into the carburetor itself like it is supposed to do. However the motor still only runs when I pour fresh gas in it. I am going to assume that the fuel that is in the system now is too old, and two of the clues are going to be that the fuel has a strong green tint to it, and the smell is like a stale gas. I am going to try and empty the system out and replace it with fresh gas to see if I can keep it running.

          Thanks
           
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          • 70 DUSTER CRATE

            70 DUSTER CRATE Well-Known Member

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            On the edelbrock that I received, the cap screws they provided were waaay tooo long.
            So if you need longer bolts because of the flange thickness, calculate how much is extending past the threads on the inside and towards the chain. Compare what you had, with flange thickness and bolt length, to what you need for the new.
            Also, If you go too short, you may strip the threads.
             
          • Dana67Dart

            Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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            How about an update?
             
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            • Gandy Dancer

              Gandy Dancer Well-Known Member

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              Ok - I finally got the combination running. I determined that it was not bad, gas, or the fuel pump. I had to adjust the choke plate on the carburetor to pull the fuel up. However now the problem I encountered yesterday is that she started up, and ran fine, but then after 30 minutes of driving it sounded like the cam dropped of and when it was running sounded like a four cylinder, she would not accelerate, and finally she stalled and would not crank back up. I had not had a chance to get back out there and look at it, but I will try to today. I will begin to diagnose the problem today, and figure out how to permanently adjust the carburetor.
               
            • oldkimmer

              oldkimmer Well-Known Member

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              Did u run out of gas or crud in the tank got sucked up and plugged passages in the carb or fuel pump or plugged the fuel filter. Kim
               
            • AJ/FormS

              AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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              Is the pump plumbed correctly? or are you trying to pump the gas back to the tank,lol.
              Ok,Ok I'm just being an azz;sometimes I just can't help myself
               
            • pishta

              pishta I know I'm right....

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              Bad gas breeds crap in the tank. Probably lost fuel pressure due to stuffed filter or clogged needle seats resulting in flooding. Take carb top off and check inside the fuel bowls and float seats. Next time you go to the parts store, buy an assortment pack of rubber caps: Golf tees stuck in hoses would only get me home in a pinch!
               
            • rumblefish360

              rumblefish360 so close yet so far away

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              Naaa, you do that well enough without trying!
              ROFLMAO
              :rofl::rofl::rofl:
               
            • B717

              B717 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I had same issues swap out the edelbrock pump for a carter and no more issues. but I think I'm going to swap to a holley because I can't get the thing to idle when it warms up.
               
            • AJ/FormS

              AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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              Wouldn't that be a tuning issue? Or possibly a valve-lash issue?
               
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              • B717

                B717 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              • rustycowll69

                rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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                let me get this straight. Engine was rebuilt 6mos ago. Carb is brand new. correct?
                What kind of rebuild are you talking about? Stock rebuild? or bigger cam, etc? Please be as specific as possible.
                Was engine first started and run-in on this new Edelbrock carb or a different carb?
                When you said it "wouldn't crank", do you really mean the starter would turn the engine over (called "cranking"), but engine would not start?
                 
              • H22A4

                H22A4 Well-Known Member

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                While it’s not the cause of the problems, once you do figure out the problem and it’s running, get rid of that rubber fuel line from the filter to the carb. That’s a fire waiting to happen and you wouldn’t want that after it’s running smoothly.......
                 
              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member Technical Editor

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                Edelbrocks are somewhat known for a common problem of leaking fuel back out of the bowls into the lines. Why I have no idea, but I have read where a lot of people have that issue. I did with my Edelbrock on my Ford truck. Until I put a fuel check valve in the line just before the carburetor. Dorman 800-194 is a 5/16" check valve and 800-195 is the 3.8". They are not cheap, but mine fixed the problem. I have since switched to a Street Demon, so the valve is now a moot point.
                 
              • rustycowll69

                rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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                if that pic of the online filter is the OP's. Then that filter has a bunch of rust in it, and needs cleaning along with the metal fuel lines and tank. See if you can get some speedo cable inside cable and feed it thru your metal lines like a mini roto-rooter. You can chuck it up in variable speed drill if you like. Those inline filters only catch a fraction of the debris, so there has to be some crap in the new carb. If you pop the top of the carb off and see sediment in the bottom of the float bowl, you'll probably have to take the carb apart and blow out all the passages. Be careful, IIRC, there are a couple of check balls you need to be extra careful of.
                 
              • Gandy Dancer

                Gandy Dancer Well-Known Member

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                Well everyone - How about I ( I mean my dad) found the problem!! Just as rustycowll69 suggested, the darn fuel filter was clogged just enough to not allow the fuel to flow through! I checked everything else out, and we narrowed it down to the fuel filter. I guess over a period of time the fine particles had gathered enough to stop the flow of fuel.

                The explanation for the car starting to sound like a 4 cylinder was that the pistons were getting starved of fuel one by one as the filter was slowly shutting down. I plan on placing a filter before and after the fuel pump, which should help with the filtration process. Also does anyone have a good recommendation for a fuel filter?

                With the carburetor adjustment and the correction to the fuel pump, the darn car is actually idling like its supposed to be!

                Thanks FABO!
                 
              • rustycowll69

                rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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                as far as fuel filter media, the best I've found are old-school ceramic, or old-school sintered bronze filters. Whatever you go with, you need to drop the fuel tank, remove the sender/ pickup assy, and drop a couple of feet of hot dip galvanized 5/16" or 3/8" chain into the tank and a qt or two of an appropriate solvent, and litterally shake the crap out of it, until it's clean. Rinse, repeat.
                Like I think I said before, use the inner cable of speedo cable to "snake" the steel fuel lines.