Edelbrock tuning issues

[abodyjoe]

The issue is that on this setup i would think that i should have more power.

its a very mild 318. how much power ya think you are going to get? what gear is in the car?

 

[abodyjoe]

What degree do you suggest i set it on. Its a nightmare to see the degrees on the damper because the degrees disepares under the waterpump..

you need to know where you are to begin with. you should properly set up the timing curve too. that makes a huge difference. put the timing at like 15* initial and see what happens.. total may be too high depending ont he the dist but worth a try.

 

[RustyRatRod]

What degree do you suggest i set it on. Its a nightmare to see the degrees on the damper because the degrees disepares under the waterpump..

If you think setting timing is a nightmare, we may as well stop here and recommend stamp collecting.

 

[mbaird]

My friend has a fury with a stock 318 and he's cuicker than me with the little valiant

But has the car ever ran better ? If it ran better before installing carb then it is probably the carb .
If the car is new to you and had that carb on it already my guess is timing issue or cam not installed properly or weak compression .
Cam and ignition timing has a huge effect on power .

 

[junkyardhero]

What degree do you suggest i set it on. Its a nightmare to see the degrees on the damper because the degrees disepares under the waterpump..

if the mark is under the pump body/timing cover then depending on the year it's either WAY advanced or retarded.

however, depending on what waterpump, timing cover and hose routing you have going on it could be quite difficult to get eyes on the factory timing marks. if that's the case i would strongly suggest getting some aftermarket timing tape for the balancer and a timing tab to make life easier.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Just so you know, on my low-compression advertised 8/1 318, she is sporting the big Thermoquad and runs great. altho, I have forgotten the jetting, and with 3.55s, A998 gears, and a 2800 stall, in a big fat 1984 D100, lol. She is a badazz lil smogger.

I bet, in Norway, you are close to sealevel with nice fresh, dry, cold air. That 318 should really haulazz.

 

[George Jets]

I am betting your 1405 carb is plugged up.

One clue is if you take the 2 idle enrichment screws in the front of carb and turn them in and out. If they do nothing as far as how the engine runs then you know the carb is plugged.

Baseline setting on the 2 idle enrichment screws is 1 1/2 turns out from being bottomed out.

I use an Ultrasonic cleaner and distilled water and a little Pine Sol to clean them out good. Don't leave them in too long or they will turn gray. Heat up the cleaning solution.

Do it outside, so your garage doesn't end up smelling like Pine Sol.

Rinse with distilled water and make sure all the jet passages blow clean with compressed air. Lots of little runs in there that can plug off with gunk over time.

25 - 30 year old carbs here...

318 with 1406 4 bbl, runs great and plenty of power > enough to get into trouble.


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[George Jets]

What vehicle? You can just turn the distributor counterclockwise just a little and see if the RPM's pick up. If they do, take it around the block. See if it gets noticeably better. I don't have a degree to suggest, but your engine will. Actually, I just did a video on baselining your timing. It would be beneficial to you to watch it.

Here is the good video on distributors from @318willrun




Just watched it myself, as it falls right inline with the distributors I am working on.

Thanks 318willrun for posting that up.


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[George Jets]

12° BTDC (before top dead center) on your timing with standard mopar electronic ignition, and the vacuum line from the distributor plugged for setting the timing.

With the engine at a slow idle, like 600 rpms. Plugs gapped at .035 ths.

Get it all set, then plug back in your vacuum advance hose and go for a drive.

Bring your idle up enough so it doesn't stall at the stop lights.


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[furrystump]

If it is hard to see the timing scale because of the water pump. You need to make sure you have matched parts. What side of the motor is the timing scale on? Usually when the pump is in the way, you have a driverside inlet water pump and driverside timing scale. That is old style pump and new style cover. So which balancer do you have? If it is old style, with old timing line, you are way out on timing if you use the new timing scale. The old style is passenger side scale, driverside pump inlet. New style is flipped. I’m running a new style cover and old style pump. Easy to deal with, but you have to know the line on the balancer and on the scale line up at TDC. I have to run timing tape and the old bolt on scale with my aftermarket balancer.

 

[Mattax]

My friend has a fury with a stock 318 and he's cuicker than me with the little valiant

That could be the engine or the gearing, or, especially from a standing start, the skill of the operator.

What degree do you suggest i set it on. Its a nightmare to see the degrees on the damper because the degrees disepares under the waterpump..

junkyardhero's advice is where I'd start.
Especially knowing your location will make some things more difficult to access.
1. Timing marks. There's several solutions available. Timing tape, Home made timing tape (see this thread), dial-back timing light, or an aftermarket timing tab. Post some photos of the front of the engine and people here can figure out if there are some mixed parts.
You also will need a tachometer. A timing measurement without the rpm is not very helpful, and often misleading.

2. Initial timing. Somewhere between 10 and 15 degrees at 600 rpm. BUT if the distributor has an advance designed for initial of 0 or 5 degrees at 650 - 700 rpm, then setting the intial at 15 degrees likely will cause damage under full throttle or close to full throttle. So again having the ability to measuring timing and rpm is important. The diffence is these timing measurements will be at higher rpm.

While getting all the things you need, if you still have time, you can do some reading about how carburetors work.

How to read carb calibration chart?

I’ve learned a lot from this thread. Hopefully sometime this week I can order a few parts and find some time to piddle with it. I’ll come back in here and post what I do. Thanks guys. I think the metering rods are about 12 bucks and a set of Springs is around $9 if I'm not mistaking.. Remember...

www.forabodiesonly.com

Carburetor Fundamentals 1966

Carburetor Fundamentals (Session 222) from the Master Technician's Service Conference

Filmstrip with audio

1966 Carburetor Fundamentals from The Master Technician Service Conference Series (Session 222)

or goto www.mymopar.com for the same Chrysler Tech but in pdf and youtube format.

For future reference, Here's a nearly complete index of the Chrysler Master Tech Conference

Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics

The Imperial Mailing List Online Car Club is dedicated to the preservation, appreciation and restoration of Imperials and Chrysler Imperials of all years, models and body-styles.

www.web.imperialclub.info

 

[Unconventional]

Basics:
- is the carb opening fully.
- choke hanging up will prevent secondary t/blades from opening. Check for this.
- what is the ign timing
- carb size is perfect for this engine.

This could be a clue to what's going on with a SBC I know of. Starts good, idles good, to half throttle not bad. Romp on it, Nothin'.