EFI Conversion

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I would steer clear of some obscure little boutique company like Edelbrock that is jumping into EFI now that FiTech has perfected it and demonstrated there is a huge market for it..
"little boutique company'? Come on Joe , Edlelbrock may be a lot of things but "little boutique" they are not. Do a little research on Edelbrock before you make a comment like that.
 
I would steer clear of some obscure little boutique company like Edelbrock that is jumping into EFI now that FiTech has perfected it and demonstrated there is a huge market for it..

"little boutique company'? Come on Joe , Edlelbrock may be a lot of things but "little boutique" they are not. Do a little research on Edelbrock before you make a comment like that.

Actually, I was thinking it was a little strong to suggest that fitech perfected "it". Their system is far from perfect.
 
Honestly if the Pro-Flo 4 had been available, I might have went with that. No doubt FiTech is far from perfect, but at this time in the market, they have the "standard" for affordable EFI. I'm not saying they are the best, but what I see is every other system being labeled good, or bad(based off price, tuneability, etc) As compared to the FiTech..
 
I would steer clear of some obscure little boutique company like Edelbrock that is jumping into EFI now that FiTech has perfected it and demonstrated there is a huge market for it..

LOL, Right? The next thing we'll see is a little conglomerate like Holley trying to make a go of it.
 
Looks like right now they are geared towards Chevy. I did see they said a certain type of intake manifold is required for a small block Mopar, which of course, everyone has one in their garage. I’lk Wait and see how they go!

Maybe it's better to order the one for Mopar with the 4 bbl style manifold for a Mopar and use the included intake. It will save folks from searching in the garage.
 
it's the hand held. Fitech has stated they didn't think anyone would want the handheld to stay plugged in and visibly mounted, so it's not designed with that in mind. Simply unplug it when you know it will be sitting. It won't lose anything, mine hasn't anyway, and no longer drains the battery
A fast 2.0 is designed to be mounted , and run all time, its the way u keep up w/ the engine .
 
Man i must be missing something. I live in Ohio and have many a cars sit with fuel in them. I don't even add anything to the tank when I put them away. Most sit in unheated garages some heated. But I also always put the best fuel without ethanol I can find in them. I don't take my carbs apart every year. Not even in my lawn tractors. You could just put a fuel shut off in the line and run it out of fuel when you put it away. Just trying to save you a lot of money on that "strictly a cruiser" car.
If I were running a fitech, and having trouble johny mac would be the first person I would call, u can tell he knows what he`s doing.
I don't have and never had carb trouble like one the ones described on here. I don`t have problems w/ them setting for periods of time, if u do drain them . Non ethanol fuel is big in this equasion. Too bad we can`t get anything over 91 here . But my engine doesn't ping on it, I can set the timing (and experiment ) with it from the drivers seat.
You ever go from 5-600 ft altitude to 6500 ft w/ a carb? Fuel inj. systems take care of that.
 
Ask away.

Jack
Thank you!!
First off i was wondering what you hooked your white wire into?

Also in terms of fans, are you using electric? The instructions say to run the yellow wire to the fan relay ground.. i am no electrical guru but shouldnt it be to the positive? I know there are some well known errors in the instructions

Thanks again!
 
My blue wire goes to the tach output wire from my MSD 6AL. I have electric fans but I don't have the FiTech controlling them so I can't help you there.

My white wire goes to the ballast resistor.

I kept my setup as simple as I could. No fan control or timing control. My timing is being controlled by the MSD setup very well so I didn't want to mess with it.

Jack
 
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My white wire goes to the tach output wire from my MSD 6AL. I have electric fans but I don't have the FiTech controlling them so I can't help you there.

I kept my setup as simple as I could. No fan control or timing control. My timing is being controlled by the MSD setup very well so I didn't want to mess with it.

Jack
Thank you for the pointers. Which wiring figure did you follow? I am going with Figure 11. I think it is the closest to my current set up. Like you mentioned, I also have a MSD 6AL (but an older one - 6420).

Upon looking at the diagram, (if this is the way to go) it shows the blue wire connects to 'tach out'. Would putting this and the white wire you suggested together work?

I haven't started to run any as of yet, I want to be 110% certain before I start playing around

upload_2018-7-19_0-15-38.png


upload_2018-7-19_0-17-50.png
 
No the white wire and blue wire together may be a little dicey. I used the same wiring as your are going to. My other post was wrong. I will fix it. I ran the blue wire to the tach out on the 6AL and the white wire to one side of the ballast resistor. Please note that I don't run a ballast resistor but I still have the wires connected together and that is what I spliced into. Works well.

Jack
 
No the white wire and blue wire together may be a little dicey. I used the same wiring as your are going to. My other post was wrong. I will fix it. I ran the blue wire to the tach out on the 6AL and the white wire to one side of the ballast resistor. Please note that I don't run a ballast resistor but I still have the wires connected together and that is what I spliced into. Works well.

Jack
Sounds good - Sorry for all the dumb questions.

You are running your wires to these wires?

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Why would you remove this?
 
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask so don't worry about them.
When you have a MSD 6AL, MSD blaster 2 coil and the MSD dizzy you don't need to run a ballast resistor. I'm not sure if you need all three MSD products to delete the ballast resistor, maybe just the 6AL.
Using your photo of the ballast resistor all you do is connect the 2 blue wires to the 2 reddish brown wires and you are good to go. I spliced my white wire into the 2 blue wires and it works perfect.

Jack
 
Many ignition systems don't need (nor "want") a ballast. The GM HEI doesn't even with a stock Mopar coil. I don't believe you need one with Pertronix, could be wrong.

NO CDI (MSD) ignition needs a ballast. It is important to remember that a "discharge" (CDI) works completely different than breaker points or "switching" electronic. CDI works more like a photoflash. There is no DC battery current through the coil with CDI
 
You don't need an ignition box at all, the FiTech will fire the coil without a box. That is if you are running a MSD distributor.
 
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In terms of ignition - I am running the MSD Blaster 3 coil, 6AL (as mentioned above) and a Mopar 2 wire distributor.

So no MSD distributor.

Will I damage something if I pull the ballast?
 
In terms of ignition - I am running the MSD Blaster 3 coil, 6AL (as mentioned above) and a Mopar 2 wire distributor.

So no MSD distributor.

Will I damage something if I pull the ballast?

You are not listening LOL

The MSD CDI does not NEED a ballast, and works very differently from a switched ignition such as points or original Mopar Read my post above
 
You are not listening LOL

The MSD CDI does not NEED a ballast, and works very differently from a switched ignition such as points or original Mopar Read my post above
Thank you for clarifying.. I am listening.. Kind of. Been a long work week already haha

Removing the ballast will not harm the voltage regulator or anything else? I also upgraded the alternator last year and the wiring along with it. This increase will not harm anything by removing this? I have put so much time and money into this car I want to be sure and not paranoid when changing things that have been there for a long time lol

Thanks again
 
How did you make out? Did you get it together? Inquiring minds want to know.

Jack
Hey Jack! I have not as of yet but will be this coming weekend. I have the wires in place but need to actually route them and cut to size etc. I am going to remove the balast and put the wires together as suggested above and see how that goes.
My main focus the last week or so has been redoing my fuel system. I finished installing a dual fitech intake pump the other day and have new braided nylon lines i am using now too. Need to cut them to length and install the new regulator once that arrives hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Once i get my fuel system figured out I will finish up the wiring and then see what happens!
My last piece of the puzzle will be what guage of wire to use at the fuel pump when factoring in voltdrop. I got some great advice on that from here too!
What is your fuel system comprised of? Do you have an intank pump? Or the FCC?
 
Hey Jack! I have not as of yet but will be this coming weekend. I have the wires in place but need to actually route them and cut to size etc. I am going to remove the balast and put the wires together as suggested above and see how that goes.
My main focus the last week or so has been redoing my fuel system. I finished installing a dual fitech intake pump the other day and have new braided nylon lines i am using now too. Need to cut them to length and install the new regulator once that arrives hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Once i get my fuel system figured out I will finish up the wiring and then see what happens!
My last piece of the puzzle will be what guage of wire to use at the fuel pump when factoring in voltdrop. I got some great advice on that from here too!
What is your fuel system comprised of? Do you have an intank pump? Or the FCC?

Sounds like you have things under control. What I did when I took the ballast resistor out of the loop was use a jumper wire to connect the existing wires so that if I ever wanted or had to go with a ballast again I would have the wires ready to go. I used the same gauge wiring as the FiTech wire for everything including the fuel pump. My reasoning for that was that FiTech probably factored in the possible run to the pump near the gas tank. It seems to work great and the wire is not getting hot. I routed it the same as my fuel level wire.

My fuel system is as follows. Stock tank with 3/8 sending unit. I used 6AN braided hose and fittings for everything. I went from the tank to a 100 micron filter then a Walbro 392 inline pump. From there I ran the hose forward to a 30 micron filter mounted in the engine bay. I then split the lines with one going to each throttle body. On the return side I have twin outlets going to a single line that terminates at the tank just above the sending unit where I installed a weld free bung. Seems to work pretty good so far with no fuel starvation. The Fitech is controlling the pump cycling. I plan to install a safety momentum shutoff switch during the winter to make sure that the pump shuts off if I ever wreck the car.

Jack
 
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