Electornic ignition, Coils & ballast resistors, again.

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Blainethemono

Blainethemono

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I know this topic has been done to death, but I had recently upgraded to electronic ignition a few summers ago, with an Accel 42k volt Super Stock coil & supporting cast. Car ran so much better after that, all the superlatives apply. Today I installed my 30 year old 45k volt Super coil, Pictures to follow, & took it for a test drive. Woah.... difference was as noticeable as when I move from OEM to electronic. Seemed to idle even smoother, pull a bit harder, (with a 1 bbl, ya sure), & start up even quicker. Noticed temp gauge rose a ticks on the dial, but to me this makes sense that if Im burning my gas more efficiently, more power, cylinder head temps should rise a tad. Surprised that 3k more volts would make such a difference, but I LIKE IT!!

From my reading here, the consensus seems to be if u have gone electronic ignition, the ballast resistor is redundant if no longer using OEM hardware? Just test run & check heat temps @ ECU & coil & it should be good to go? EZ to try, just throwing it out there to rehash the opinions.
 
Unfortunately, the term 'elec ign' covers a wide spectre of suspects. Same applies to ign coils.

There is nothing secret about ign coils. If you want the longest/best life/best spark from any coil , follow the instructions as to whether it needs a bal res.
 
Ign coils rarely use the available secondary voltage. But the fools fall for the big numbers, such as 60kv must be better than 48kv, right, even though the spark plugs will only ever need 28kv to fire them.
Very unlikely that a coil rated with a 3kv higher sec voltage provided a 'better' spark due to the 3kv, more likely some other characteristic of the coil, such as greater pri current &/or more pri inductance that provided a hotter spark [ more heat in the spark].
 
Depends on the system. I would NOT run such things as a Mopar factory box with no ballast, unless a dedicated strip car. "Other" types follow manufacuter's destructions.
 
Blainethemono said:
Its an aftermarket ECU, not OEM.
Click to expand...
What does this mean? Aftermarket as in Mallory or MSD, or aftermarket replacement for OEM box?

If it's a replacement for a Mopar box and street, you need a resistor

If it's something else, follow the makers destructions
 
What you say is totally valid. I should just call the business I bought my system from, duh...

Thanx:thumbsup:
 
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