Electrical issues

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It cranks OK tho with the key? So are you saying you got no spark? If that's right then check the ballast resistor. Since you have the jumper wire, just jump across the two terminals. If you have a dual ballast resistor, just jumper all four wires together. Still no spark and electronic ignition, clean the case ground and firewall at the ECU.
If a points system, there are other tests.
But if it doesn't crank with the key, you'll have to check the Fusible-link.
 
Simple to check the ballast. When you start the engine, HOLD the key in the start position while trying to start it. If it starts and grinds against the starter, of course let the key go. It won't hurt it for a few seconds, but if it does start IN the start position, you have just diagnosed a bad ballast resistor.
 
AJ/FormS said:
It cranks OK tho with the key? So are you saying you got no spark? If that's right then check the ballast resistor. Since you have the jumper wire, just jump across the two terminals. If you have a dual ballast resistor, just jumper all four wires together. Still no spark and electronic ignition, clean the case ground and firewall at the ECU.
If a points system, there are other tests.
But if it doesn't crank with the key, you'll have to check the Fusible-link.
Click to expand...
 
Found out I don’t need a ballast resistor since I have an efi distributor (no points)
Another friend told me to join wires from ballast resistor, is that right?
 
Yes it runs once jump is taken off
Need to turn it off at ignition
 
Glin said:
Found out I don’t need a ballast resistor since I have an efi distributor (no points)
Another friend told me to join wires from ballast resistor, is that right?
Click to expand...

This is WHY, my friend, it is IMPORTANT to give forth details when you ask a question.

The "run" so called ign1 line goes dead during cranking. Normally, the brown bypass circuit, ign2 supplies ignition voltage during cranking. When you eliminate the ballast you need to connect those two
 
67Dart273 said:
This is WHY, my friend, it is IMPORTANT to give forth details when you ask a question.

The "run" so called ign1 line goes dead during cranking. Normally, the brown bypass circuit, ign2 supplies ignition voltage during cranking. When you eliminate the ballast you need to connect those two
Click to expand...
 
I hear you brother, problem is my knowledge of electronics is very limited
and I’d hate to give info on something I don’t know anything about.
If I eliminate the ballast resistor,connect the ends and it still doesn’t work, what else could be the problem

Thx
 
Well let's take things step by step.......

Just what did you change exactly.

You can put a voltmeter on the V supply line to your ignition, put the key in "run" and see what you have, then turn the key to "crank" and read it during cranking and see what you have.

And what exactly is this system you have? Link? Is this the so called "ready to run" distributor which connects to the stock coil, or is the "big cap" thing that looks like a GM HEI?
 
67Dart273 said:
Well let's take things step by step.......

Just what did you change exactly.

You can put a voltmeter on the V supply line to your ignition, put the key in "run" and see what you have, then turn the key to "crank" and read it during cranking and see what you have.

And what exactly is this system you have? Link? Is this the so called "ready to run" distributor which connects to the stock coil, or is the "big cap" thing that looks like a GM HEI?
Click to expand...
 
It’s a ready to run system, but I going to get a MSD distributor and swap it.
I have a MSD 2 coil and once I get it running, I’m going to install a MSD efi carb
 
Removed ballast resistor and connected wires
Still won’t start unless I jump coil to battery
 
Neutral safety issues. Just went through this with my bro's car. Just like that. One minute - fine. The next start attempt - dead.
 
Neutral safety switch issue interrupts the starter operation not the ignition spark. If the ignition switch is the issue a different distributor/spark ignition system wont cure it. Many aftermarket ignition systems will let you delete the ballast resistor and twist blue and brown wires from the ignition switch together. Working ignition switch is still required. The switch makes yellow to starter relay and brown to spark ignition hot when in start position. Then blue to ignition spark and black to fuse box hot when in run position.
 
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